Glass Tank Lids
- Thread starter CHOMPERS
- Start date
The supply list:
Glass
Glue (I used Stick'n Seal)
Glass Cleaner & Paper Towels
Glass Cutter
Cutting Oil
Grease Pencil
Run & Nip Pliars
Large Square
Flat Working Surface W/ Padding
Straight Dowel
Glass
Glue (I used Stick'n Seal)
Glass Cleaner & Paper Towels
Glass Cutter
Cutting Oil
Grease Pencil
Run & Nip Pliars
Large Square
Flat Working Surface W/ Padding
Straight Dowel
There are four main things that should be known about glass cutters before starting.
1. An old cutter with a damaged wheel should not be used. A damaged wheel will not give consistant cuts.
2. A new cutter needs to be broken in first. Run it across a scrap piece of glass about ten times until it produces a smooth cutting sound.
3. A glass cutter does not really cut glass. It introduces a tiny stress crack in the surface. It allows a controlled fracture later.
4. NEVER score the same line twice. In other words, do not run the cutter back and fourth on the score line. Doing so will ruin the cutting wheel. Make one smooth score only.
1. An old cutter with a damaged wheel should not be used. A damaged wheel will not give consistant cuts.
2. A new cutter needs to be broken in first. Run it across a scrap piece of glass about ten times until it produces a smooth cutting sound.
3. A glass cutter does not really cut glass. It introduces a tiny stress crack in the surface. It allows a controlled fracture later.
4. NEVER score the same line twice. In other words, do not run the cutter back and fourth on the score line. Doing so will ruin the cutting wheel. Make one smooth score only.
In getting started, it is important to clean the glass. The cutting wheel must remain in contact with the surface. Minute dirt particles will cause the wheel to lift and skip. This will allow the final cut to vere off of the score line.
Next, allow the glass to dry. The cutting oil needs to contact the glass. Use a straight edge (a square is best for professional looking results) to guide the cutter. Apply enough pressure so that the cutter makes a smooth sizzle sound. If it makes a grinding or popping sound, you are using too much pressure and will likely not get a clean break.
Before using the cutter, dip the tip in cutting oil. For every cut, you should start by doing this. Some people insist on using a Q-tip to run oil down the score line before using the cutter. Oil is cheap and goes a long way so I don't see why you should not do this. For the record, I didn't. I just dipped the tip in the bottle.
Next, allow the glass to dry. The cutting oil needs to contact the glass. Use a straight edge (a square is best for professional looking results) to guide the cutter. Apply enough pressure so that the cutter makes a smooth sizzle sound. If it makes a grinding or popping sound, you are using too much pressure and will likely not get a clean break.
Before using the cutter, dip the tip in cutting oil. For every cut, you should start by doing this. Some people insist on using a Q-tip to run oil down the score line before using the cutter. Oil is cheap and goes a long way so I don't see why you should not do this. For the record, I didn't. I just dipped the tip in the bottle.
When you have scored your line, lift the glass and place a dowel under the score line. Take care to line up the dowel so that it is directly under the score. In the picture, the score line is almost invisible but the line of oil droplets shows up well.
By pressing on the outer edges of the glass, the stress will cause the score line to travel deaper into the glass causing it to break cleanly through. The break will travel down the score line. If too much pressure was applied during scoring and popping was heard, tiny fracture lines will radiate outward from the score line which will likely guide the break away from the score line. In this picture, the break followed the score line perfectly.
The padding on the work surface is important in the breaking process. It absorbs the impact energy when the break releases. The outer edges of the glass will hit your work surface with some force.
The padding on the work surface is important in the breaking process. It absorbs the impact energy when the break releases. The outer edges of the glass will hit your work surface with some force.
The main pieces for the tank lid consist of three supports, two back sections, and two front lids with handles.
When all of the main pieces were cut, I used some of the scraps to cut the smaller pieces for the handles. When cutting smaller pieces, it is easier to use Run & Nip pliers. The score is made the same, only the breaking is different. The pliers have different jaws for runs and nips. Nipping is for taking off small pieces of glass and running is the term given to making the break as described in the earlier post. The pliers with the run jaws installed are centered over the score and they bend the glass just like using the dowel.
When all of the main pieces were cut, I used some of the scraps to cut the smaller pieces for the handles. When cutting smaller pieces, it is easier to use Run & Nip pliers. The score is made the same, only the breaking is different. The pliers have different jaws for runs and nips. Nipping is for taking off small pieces of glass and running is the term given to making the break as described in the earlier post. The pliers with the run jaws installed are centered over the score and they bend the glass just like using the dowel.
Next, sand the edges of the handle parts. They are sharp and can cause cuts while handling. Do not use Silicon Dioxide sandpaper. It will not sand glass. The reason for this is glass is Silicon Dioxide and they are the same hardness. Look for Aluminum Oxide sandpaper. Each piece of glass has six edges. Make sure you keep tract of what you have sanded so that you do not miss any. After the pieces are glued, it will be near impossible to sand them.
