Baby turtle health issues... HELP

Wailua Boy

Potamotrygon
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I just think you want to create a warm basking area and cool water, not a uniform temperature.
Frank Castle Frank Castle
 

Frank Castle

Potamotrygon
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I just think you want to create a warm basking area and cool water, not a uniform temperature.
Frank Castle Frank Castle
I always kept a constant air temperature, the water temperature just a FEW degrees cooler than ambient air temp, then a basking spot depending on the species anywhere from 85F to 110F. Most temperate and subtropicals should have 90F for basking, tropical should be 92-95F and desert dwellers more likely 95-105 normally. Some instances such as baby bearded dragons and Uromastyx like a 110F basking spot, BUT the cool end of the tank should only be 80F, maybe even 78F for proper thermoregulation. I have neverkept any reptiles lower than 75F without negative results. Many get respiratory infections any lower than that and brumation is a whole different story - there can be no humidity, or water except in the dish, no drafts, no light and preferably no disturbances. Not all animals survive brumation/aestivation/hibernation.

Ambient temperature is more important than anything. It must be constant.
 

TroyMIfishkeeper

Jack Dempsey
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Dec 7, 2015
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I tried joining turtle forum last week and after two days (and not being able to comment on threads/make a thread), my account got deleted.
I understand that it's important for all reptiles to thermoregulate, but isn't that a bit excessive? "Ambient temperature must be constant..." In the wild the temperature rises and drops at least a little. Like, come on. I lowered the water temp to 78 degrees, I'm still yet to get thermometers so I can keep track of the basking spot temp and ambient temp but I really don't think it's that big of a deal. I think they can handle the temperature as long as they've got enough heat (plus they have a large basking spot so one side is cooler than the other). In the wild they would have to be able to adjust if it was cloudy for a few weeks, and I don't want it to be so hot that I just fry the little guys. And they are FAR from brumating.
They are in a 40b with the water level only about three inches from the top of the tank. There's hardly any air in there for me to measure the temp, so I don't think it's that big of a deal. And don't start saying I'm ignorant with how I keep my reptiles, I do a hell of a lot more than most. I admit there's always more to learn but I'm not an idiot.
Thanks so much for the help everyone...
 

Frank Castle

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I tried joining turtle forum last week and after two days (and not being able to comment on threads/make a thread), my account got deleted.
I understand that it's important for all reptiles to thermoregulate, but isn't that a bit excessive? "Ambient temperature must be constant..." In the wild the temperature rises and drops at least a little. Like, come on. I lowered the water temp to 78 degrees, I'm still yet to get thermometers so I can keep track of the basking spot temp and ambient temp but I really don't think it's that big of a deal. I think they can handle the temperature as long as they've got enough heat (plus they have a large basking spot so one side is cooler than the other). In the wild they would have to be able to adjust if it was cloudy for a few weeks, and I don't want it to be so hot that I just fry the little guys. And they are FAR from brumating.
They are in a 40b with the water level only about three inches from the top of the tank. There's hardly any air in there for me to measure the temp, so I don't think it's that big of a deal. And don't start saying I'm ignorant with how I keep my reptiles, I do a hell of a lot more than most. I admit there's always more to learn but I'm not an idiot.
Thanks so much for the help everyone...
As I always say, you are welcome to do what you wish with your animals, but you asked for advice and this is what I had to say. Take it or leave it. I know if I was getting tips from someone with 30 years experience I would be listening and learning. You made a thread because a turtle died and you don't want another one to die. Well, this is what I offered. Why would you compare wild-environments to captive environments? We NEVER do this in the hobby there are too many factors animals experience in the wild that drastically change things in captivity. Turtle live with Alligators in the wild, but you wouldn't keep them together in an enclosure, would you? You have them in a tank full of water with a basking spot.......how is that anything remotely close to their natural environment? They have much more options in the wild and can move more than 36"....there are simply too many differing factors to list.

It seems like you are taking offense to the advice you asked for.......that's the BEST way to prevent yourself from learning and improving skill-set. Unfortunately, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but thermometers are supposed to be in place and readings taken several days to a week before any live reptiles are introduced. This has long been a basic husbandry practice since I was a small boy. One at each end of the tank for highs and lows, and when there is aquatic/marine environment additionally, any type of floating or water-proof thermometer as a 3rd. Also consider a 2nd basking spot at the cool end of the tank as well.
 
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TroyMIfishkeeper

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Dec 7, 2015
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Troy, Michigan USA
As I always say, you are welcome to do what you wish with your animals, but you asked for advice and this is what I had to say. Take it or leave it. I know if I was getting tips from someone with 30 years experience I would be listening and learning. You made a thread because a turtle died and you don't want another one to die. Well, this is what I offered. Why would you compare wild-environments to captive environments? We NEVER do this in the hobby there are too many factors animals experience in the wild that drastically change things in captivity. Turtle live with Alligators in the wild, but you wouldn't keep them together in an enclosure, would you? You have them in a tank full of water with a basking spot.......how is that anything remotely close to their natural environment? They have much more options in the wild and can move more than 36"....there are simply too many differing factors to list.

It seems like you are taking offense to the advice you asked for.......that's the BEST way to prevent yourself from learning and improving skill-set. Unfortunately, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but thermometers are supposed to be in place and readings taken several days to a week before any live reptiles are introduced. This has long been a basic husbandry practice since I was a small boy. One at each end of the tank for highs and lows, and when there is aquatic/marine environment additionally, any type of floating or water-proof thermometer as a 3rd. Also consider a 2nd basking spot at the cool end of the tank as well.
I didn't take offense to the advice I was given, I was actually grateful for that. What offended me was when you suggested that I "do some research" and that "these are simple things you should know." Well, I apologize for not knowing. Again, I admit there's always more to learn and I don't know anything, but I don't see myself as a fool.
 

Frank Castle

Potamotrygon
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I didn't take offense to the advice I was given, I was actually grateful for that. What offended me was when you suggested that I "do some research" and that "these are simple things you should know." Well, I apologize for not knowing. Again, I admit there's always more to learn and I don't know anything, but I don't see myself as a fool.
I don't think you're a fool, I just think some important things got overlooked, that's all.
 

Frank Castle

Potamotrygon
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Ok, I apologize for the misunderstanding. I'm often too quick to assume. It was immature on my part. Thanks for the advice, I'm sure you know better than I do.
No apologies needed, my friend. glad I can help. If you have any more questions feel free to ask. keep us updated on things improving or getting worse. Also something I almost forgot, I wanted to ask you about calcium and vitamin intake......are you dusting their foods and with what if so? and also, hand-in-hand with that, do you replace UVBs every 6 months, 12 at max?
 
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