Please help

[Scott_OR]

Opps, yes that should have been sand the bottom of the stand...I will not sand the aquarium!
I am going to drill the tank this weekend. I will take a pic of the overflow tonight and the stand with access holes for the plumbing. Thanks everyone for the help. I think getting the stand to it's final location and getting it level will ease my mind. I can cut some 2x4 shims and put them under the 3/4" top to level things out. Maybe I can get some water in this thing soon!

 

[Scott_OR]

Here is a shot of the stand and underneath where I opened up some holes for electrical and plumbing. The overflow has 3 1.5 inch holes and it will be mounted in the middle of the tank, that is why I opened up the middle area with an oblong hole.

 

[DN328]

That's a nice looking stand that you made - looks professionally done. I'm assume the center leg is shifted to the right so that you can fit the sump and for ease of maintenance access?

Are you planning to put a platform underneath so that the sump sits flush? I would imagine that would also have strengthen as well.

 

[Scott_OR]

Ok, drilled the tank, installed the bulkheads and overflow box. Put the floor in the stand and got the sumo tank below. Here are a few pics. Now, how do I plumb it all up?!?

 

[DN328]

Looks like you've started what potentially looks like dorso standpipes for bean animal? Were you planning on running the return over the display tank, OR, drilling holes as well? I'm thinking since you did I nice job on the drain, mind as well as the hole/bulk-head for returns?

It's hard to tell how far of a reach to the sump, but you may want to consider moving it towards the front of the stand, but there's also benefits for having the space in front. Are you planning to run the drains through the bigger opening?

 

[Scott_OR]

It's the new overflow box from glass-holes. One of the holes is the main drain (left or right, I can't remember), the other hole at the same height is the secondary drain, the lower hole is the emergency drain. There is some baffles inside the overflow to achieve the intended operation for each hole.

I am going to just do over the top for the returns. I really don't want to add more holes and press my luck. I feel fortunate I was able to drill 3 1.5 inch holes by myself without issue.

So...now, how do I plumb this all up? There are 3 1.5" pipes coming down from the back. Can I use 90 degree elbows to enter the stand (yes, in the middle section)? Or are the 45 degree bends highly recommended. I don't think I will be hurting for flow through this beast. My intention would be to come in and have the 3 pipes dump into 3 7" 200 um filter socks to start.

Returns, I think a return on each end of the tank would be nice. Where do I split the connection, inside the stand? Do you recommend just the standard loc line style setup where I can direct the flow. What about flow at the bottom of the tank and keeping all the debris in the water column and up to the overflow. This is the thing that worries me the most about the sump.

 

[Scott_OR]

Here is a full tank shot from this morning:

 

[DN328]

I'll go off of what I've seen in the pictures.

Drain:
* Assuming drain pipes go down through the large opening into the right end of the sump

* I don't have my third, dry stand-by going to any sock. It just hanging above the sump water level with the idea of making noise to get your attention should their be a clog. The other two drains go to socks

Return:
* I would split/T at the highest possible level inside the stand. This way, you maximize space for maintenance. You could also just take one return PVC out behind the tank, then split there as well.

* If you don't mind running two loclines down on each end/side of the tank, you could add multiple spouts verticially for water flow at different levels. Just an initial idea to your question/concern on that. This helps, but ultimately you'll have to vacuum regardless of water flow, IMO. I have a closed loop circulation that helps flow, but won't blow things to the overflow.

* You'll want to make sure to address cases when the return pump is off (whether power outage, pump defect, maintenance) so you'll want to add a small hole at the top of the locline to break the siphon and/or gate-valve.

I've got some pictures if it would help visualize, but every plumbing runs differently depending on your situation. Let me know.

 

[DN328]

Oh, forgot to add although it's not advised, I too use 90 degrees. It's not an issue with my pumps, and I think it looks cleaner in some cases. If pump rates isn't an issue for you, I would use the 90 as it allows for cleaner runs too. It just depends on the situation too.

 

[Scott_OR]

Thanks for your responses, I would love to see your setup.

I was looking at things last night and I had that moment where I looked at things differently and had some inspiration. Instead of having the sump flow from left to right...I am going to have the drain pipes dump right into the back of the sump and have that water flow forward, then move left towards the return pump and heaters. I think this will allow a small time out area too and hold extra water. Thoughts? I will finish the plumbing and post pics tonight of my thought process. It was a pure mad scientist moment!