Upgrading and looking for heaters that can heat 400 gallons.

[ShadowStryder]

I see they have several models, is there a certain model that you would recommend for my dual 500w titaniums and my understanding is that when I plug them into the controller that it bipasses their built in thermostat with its own? What setting (temp) do you put the inline controllers on for the titaniums?

 

[aldiaz33]

I see they have several models, is there a certain model that you would recommend for my dual 500w titaniums and my understanding is that when I plug them into the controller that it bipasses their built in thermostat with its own? What setting (temp) do you put the inline controllers on for the titaniums?

The ETCI-1R is good for controlling up to 1,800 watts, so that model should work for you.

I'm not familiar with the titanium heaters though. Do yours have standard plugs? If they do have plugs, you can order the controller with a 2nd plug (a second electrical socket) for en extra $7.00 so that you can plug each of your 500W heaters directly into the unit or you can forget about the exrtra socket just plug both of your 500W heaters into a power strip, then plug the plower strip into the controller.

I set the internal thermostat on my E-eheim Jager heaters to 85F, so that if the ETC controller fails in the "on" position, the internal thermostat of the Jager's will shut the heaters off once 85F is achieved. In other words, the ETC controls when the heaters come on and off, unless it gets stuck in the on position in which case the Jager's internal thermastat will shut them down once the water gets up to 85F. Setting them up this way provides a little bit of insurance against cooking your fish.

You have to call Jehmco to order their stuff (which is a little strange in this day and age), but John and the lady that works there are very nice and knowledgable and will treat you right. I'm actually glad I had to call to order because they make an effort to get the details of your situation and make sure to set you up with the appropriate equipment.

 

[Venom Stinger]

The ETCI-1R is good for controlling up to 1,800 watts, so that model should work for you.

I'm not familiar with the titanium heaters though. Do yours have standard plugs? If they do have plugs, you can order the controller with a 2nd plug (a second electrical socket) for en extra $7.00 so that you can plug each of your 500W heaters directly into the unit or you can forget about the exrtra socket just plug both of your 500W heaters into a power strip, then plug the plower strip into the controller.

I set the internal thermostat on my E-eheim Jager heaters to 85F, so that if the ETC controller fails in the "on" position, the internal thermostat of the Jager's will shut the heaters off once 85F is achieved. In other words, the ETC controls when the heaters come on and off, unless it gets stuck in the on position in which case the Jager's internal thermastat will shut them down once the water gets up to 85F. Setting them up this way provides a little bit of insurance against cooking your fish.

You have to call Jehmco to order their stuff (which is a little strange in this day and age), but John and the lady that works there are very nice and knowledgable and will treat you right. I'm actually glad I had to call to order because they make an effort to get the details of your situation and make sure to set you up with the appropriate equipment.

where is the best place to get this?

 

[Venom Stinger]

where is the best place to get this?

never mind..i have to stop being so lazy..
thanks for all the help...i will get one.

 

[T1KARMANN]

Hi, I thought about it and I'm back.

Water is constantly circulating through your sump, so to say that the two bodies of water are different does not make sense (as long as the water is being circulated, the temps between the display and the sump will be very similiar, +-1, if not identical...it's the same water).

The scenario that I mentioned is a pump failure that results in water no longer being circulated...at this point, you do have two separate bodies of water (display tank and sump). You still with me?

Since your heaters are located in your sump and your pump is no longer working, heated water is no longer being pumped back up to your display. Since your sensor is located in the display, your controller will realize the drop in temperature and activate the heaters. Your controller is not smart enough to know that your heaters are located in your sump, and your failed pump is no longer circulating the heated water back up to your display. It will think the heaters need to stay on because the water temps in your display are not achieving their set point.

The outcome of this scenario is having an overheated sump = cooked bio.

Feel free to ask me any questions if you still don't get it.

It might seem far fetched, but I know a guy who had a power outage and his pump did not power back on when the power came back and his heaters basically boiled his live rock in his sump.

Place the sensor near your drains where water enters your sump (away from your heaters), so that if your pump fails, your temp controller will shut off your heaters before they boil your bio.

Think about it and get back to me after you've changed yours around.

my sump is insulated all around with poly making it hotter than my main tank my sump is 6x2x2 with 2kw of heater the sump heats up fast but the main tank takes time with the warmer sump water pumpinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnaround

with 2kw of heater in a sump that size it will heat up very fast if the sensor is in the sump the heater will turn off much sooner than needed then off and on a lot more once the cooler tank water enters the sump the sump will run much hotter than the main tank

you will also get false temp readings trust mi tryed iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii all ways as i have a temp sensor on my aquatronica system to

with the controller sensor in the sump they were set at 84 but the tank temp was only 80

 

[aldiaz33]

my sump is insulated all around with poly making it hotter than my main tank my sump is 6x2x2 with 2kw of heater the sump heats up fast but the main tank takes time with the warmer sump water pumpinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnaround

with 2kw of heater in a sump that size it will heat up very fast if the sensor is in the sump the heater will turn off much sooner than needed then off and on a lot more once the cooler tank water enters the sump the sump will run much hotter than the main tank

you will also get false temp readings trust mi tryed iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii all ways as i have a temp sensor on my aquatronica system to

with the controller sensor in the sump they were set at 84 but the tank temp was only 80

Does your sump not have any baffles? Is it completely open with no baffles? If so, then I agree with you that it is possible you will get false readings if you place the sensor in your sump.

However if you have baffles (Like I do, I have one which separates my sump into two sections), you will not have the problem that you describe. Water does not randomly swirl around in my sump...it enters the first compartment of my sump where my sensor is located and then flows into the second chamber where my heaters and return pump are located.

In other words, water flows left to right, with the unheated water coming from the display tank at the left and then into the second compartment where my heaters and pump are located. The water flowing through the second compartment is heated and sent back to my display tank. My sensor is located in the first chamber, detecting the temperature of the water falling from the display tank. When it detects the temperature has dropped below 80F, the controller turns my heaters on and pushes the heated water into the display tank until the water falling into my sump from the display reaches the desired set point.

Heated water does not flow backwards in my sump to where my sensor is located. It is pumped directly into the display tank so there is no possibility of false readings.

If you have no dividers or seperate compartments in your sump, I can see how you might get false readings. Placing the sensor in your overflow or display tank would then be necessary. But like I had mentioned, this means if your pump locks up, your sump is going to be superheated and kill all your beneficial bacteria (bio) if some time passes before you notice. I'm not attacking you...I'm just stating the facts, so please do not be upset.

 

[DN328]

Resurrecting thread; for all those who have used the Jehmco (aka Ranco rebranded) controllers, how has it been working after a few years?

I noticed that the Jehmco ETCI-1R has the plastic casing (Nema 1) and not the metal - Nema 4x. I know most use indoors so shouldn't really matter, but thought to ask.

Also, is it correct that there really needs to be heat shrink around the probe sensor? The Jehmco site didn't state this, but I noticed the ETC Supply site selling Ranco states the probe is NOT meant to be submersed in water! That did throw me off as the rebranded names market the controller for aquariums and didn't mention. Can someone set me straight on this?

 

[DN328]

bump, anyone?