Tips fpr 1st-time Sand -bottom tank

[duanes]

Play sand is is most problematic because it is light weight, easily stirred up, and can then get into filter impeller shafts where it can pit the shaft, impeller, and volute and destroy them. I learned this from experience many years ago. When you combine this property with any Geophagine or cichlid which spits sand around you are asking to replace pumps frequently. The extra dollar or 2 paid for PFS in the beginning can save much more in filter replacement parts later.
Pool filter sand is heavier, does not get easily stirred up,and almost immediately sinks back to the bottom. It is also inert (chemically), usually cleaner, and at around $5 for 50lbs a great deal.
After the problems I had with play sand, I switched to PFS about 25 years ago, and never looked back.
I also found if not constantly cleaned, play sand will compact, when mixed with organics, and become almost cement like, in certain tanks, bonding to the glass.
And about kribs, they are west African species which come from forested soft water areas. Africa, just like S America, is a large place with many type of water conditions, although the rift lakes have hard water, this not the whole of the continent, just as there "are" cichlids in S American that live in hard, more alkaline conditions.

 

[Woefulrelic]

Are kribs picky on water condition? I thought they acclimated pretty well.

 

[duanes]

I know aquarists that easily spawn kribs in Milwaukee water, with is alkaline, pH 7.5+, fairly high conductivity, and medium hard.
I tried them years ago without success. If I were to do it again with those water conditions, I would make sure to add tannins to my water, either in the form of peat or leaves as a natura l bacteria inhibitor.

 

[Skalper666]

Yes they are but a ph of 5.0-6.0 max is recommended. That is what the water is where they are from in local African rivers and streams from what I read. They LOOK like Mbuna but are nowhere close to it.

I have well over 50lbs, but im starting with a small 10g w/ 2-3 inches to see if I like it. Nursery always get some bottom and lots of caves, just small ones, and a sponge filter was my 1st idea....I actually have a 180g-rated air pump w/ 4 valves, I was gonna use it for several sponge filters and use ONE electrical cord to power at least 4 tanks with sponges. I have at least 1/2-dozen others sitting idle if I need them.



The book I have lists them as African dwarf along with several others this site doesn't. An exceptional male may get 6", but 95% I have ever seen were only 4", max.

The Thomasi is referred to as a dwarf jewel as it is much smaller. They can withstand a low PH.

 

[Skalper666]

I've had sand alter my ph before so I would keep an eye on that.

 

[pops]

have had Oscars get a mouth full of sand and spit out right on my intakes, same with jags, not good for your impeller chambers,

 

[Skalper666]

Yeah your filters won't like u hehe

 

[xraycer]

If your just using a sponge filter you're good to go, but if you go hob you'll want to keep the intake about 5" off the bottom to prevent sand from getting sucked up......this will make for a noisy filter and eventually will kill the impeller.

When refilling the tank during w/c, use a large plate to deflect the water to prevent disturbing the sand too much. Every month or 2, stir up the sand, to prevent anaerobic conditions

 

[Guapoteguy291]

Keep it out of your filters sand will eat up a filter in no time. Keep your intake tubes as far up and away from the sand bed as you can. Any time you plan to disturb the sand be sure to turn your filters off and don't turn them back on till the sand settles

 

[DDM4v5]

Putting any cichlids at all, dwarfs included, in a 10 gallon tank, is bad news. It never works out. Trying to keep the water parameters perfect with such a small amount of water is an absolute nightmare. You are limited to either mollies or guppies. Even dwarf cichlids should have at least 20 gallons.