210 Gallon with sump

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
M

Mcgorman

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 9, 2011
22
3
33
Long Island, NY
Hi everyone,

I’m excited because I was able to secure a 6x2 210 gallon. I’m currently designing a stand underneath it. The tank is drilled with two overflows. My issue is the underneath space will only allow for 25.5 inch clearance. I will have an extra 5.5 inches between cross braces if I need a reactor (I don’t know if that is necessary).

I’m looking for a sump that will be able to handle that height and give me enough room to get into it. Looks like 16” tall is the standard?

The other wrinkle is I’ve never had a sump before. Is there anyone who would talk me through the process? I realize that’s asking a lot but I also know there are fish nerds here who probably like talking about these things 🤣.

Finally, I’m still undecided on the eventual stocking. I’ve gone between Frontosa, haps and peacocks, and South American. I know that is not exactly narrowing it down.

Help! I need a filtration expert.IMG_6427.jpeg
 
Last edited:
If you have hard, high pH tap water(at least pH 7.5 or above), the fronts or haps, or peacocks would probably do well.

If you have soft, low pH (7, or lower,) that is perfect for S Americans.
It's really about your water type that determines what fish will be healthy, or not

As far as a sump goes, a sump can be anywhere,
it can be directly below the tank,
it can be on the side, and kitty corner
or a sump can be on a floor below (in a basement to make maintenance even easier).
As long as the use of gravity is envoled.

I keep my sump slightly below, and kitty corner to my main tank, so I have easy access for maintainence.
IMG_7628.jpeg
There is no one way, no one media other than gravity.
 
duanes said:
If you have hard, high pH tap water(at least pH 7.5 or above), the fronts or haps, or peacocks would probably do well.

If you have soft, low pH (7, or lower,) that is perfect for S Americans.
It's really about your water type that determines what fish will be healthy, or not

As far as a sump goes, a sump can be anywhere,
it can be directly below the tank,
it can be on the side, and kitty corner
or a sump can be on a floor below (in a basement to make maintenance even easier).
As long as the use of gravity is envoled.

I keep my sump slightly below, and kitty corner to my main tank, so I have easy access for maintainence.
View attachment 1567397
There is no one way, no one media other than gravity.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Yeah I thought about letting the water make that decision for me. I haven’t had a tank going in this house yet. I’ll test it out of the tap and maybe that will help me narrow things down.
 
There is a lot in the forums on sumps. One thing I will point out is that sumps can overflow if the pumps in the sump stop working or turn off. The best solution is to drill a hole on the return lines (that run from the pump into the tank). Drill the hole right below the water line so when the pumps are off the water will not syphon back down into the tank. The hole introduces air that breaks the syphon. The sump has to be big enough so that it can take the amount of this "drain down".
 
As you read about sumps you will see that most people have a valve for the drain pipes. The valve is located under the tank and you use it to balance the flow. The pump speed also balances the flow.
 
If you are doing a "Herbie" setup (a drain line and an overflow drain line) make sure the main drain is at least 6" lower than the overflow. More space the better. If the main drain is too high it will get air bubbles in it which is noisy.
The more you plan your sump the better. When you decide on chamber size make sure your pump(s) will fit in the chamber. There are lots of sumps you can buy online.
 
The valve or valves are just for the main drain. The overflow or "emergency" drain doesn't need a valve.
 
On my setup the overflow pipe is 1/2" below the weir. The main drain is 6" below the overflow and it still gets bubbles in it.
 
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