Friends sump help
- Thread starter jaws7777
- Start date
Okay in the vid the drain is low and behind the overflow it was posted just to explain the gate valve and emergency drain.
In your case you would run the main drain line all the way to the surface put two 90 elbows on so it turns the drain down back toward the bottom then you can run this as deep as you would like and put a strainer on the end. Back at the top you would drill a siphon break hole near the surface in the down turned elbow.
Am I making sense? I tied to find a picture but I couldn't.
The other pipe would just be right at the level you want the water to be maintained during normal operation.
In your case you would run the main drain line all the way to the surface put two 90 elbows on so it turns the drain down back toward the bottom then you can run this as deep as you would like and put a strainer on the end. Back at the top you would drill a siphon break hole near the surface in the down turned elbow.
Am I making sense? I tied to find a picture but I couldn't.
The other pipe would just be right at the level you want the water to be maintained during normal operation.
Then it would be a simple thing of adjusting the gate valve to be slightly less flow then the pump output.
If one of the bulkheads is larger and you need more flow during normal operation I would use the larger one for the drain and the other for the emergency.
But it would be better the other way around "IF" the smaller line can keep up. To set the smaller one as the drain and the larger as emergency.
If one of the bulkheads is larger and you need more flow during normal operation I would use the larger one for the drain and the other for the emergency.
But it would be better the other way around "IF" the smaller line can keep up. To set the smaller one as the drain and the larger as emergency.
This is correct, so the sump needs to be able to accommodate WHEN the pump is off.
Lol thx man but dont wanna try something with someone else tank and garage that will flood but do appreciate the input
Man thats a great idea im not sure if i'll be able to walk him through that but thats some good food for thought...makes perfect sense
I'll try big g's idea that should work if it gets to complicated explaining it we'll just run both as gravity drains.
Happy i started the thread as i overloked the fact that just slapping a gate on and lowering the stand pipe to create a siphon could/would flood his sump..
Thx all for the input
I still would like to know if he needs the tank quiet? Also, how big is the sump?
Since it's in the garage, does he mind water running noise or does he want it to be as silent as possible? Also, how concerned is he if the tank ends up overflowing in the case of a drain being clogged?
These questions could really change what kind of setup he should run. For instance, if sound does not matter to him (within reason) then the herbie style overflow is not necessary. Also, if it's not a huge deal if the tank overflows in the case that one of the drains gets clogged, then it doesn't really matter if he uses both drains near their full capacity.
This will really help out with what kind of setup you should go for.
Since it's in the garage, does he mind water running noise or does he want it to be as silent as possible? Also, how concerned is he if the tank ends up overflowing in the case of a drain being clogged?
These questions could really change what kind of setup he should run. For instance, if sound does not matter to him (within reason) then the herbie style overflow is not necessary. Also, if it's not a huge deal if the tank overflows in the case that one of the drains gets clogged, then it doesn't really matter if he uses both drains near their full capacity.
This will really help out with what kind of setup you should go for.
Thx man but i think most of that was covered in the op
Noise and flododing arent a concern just wants to increase flow.
I gave him both options siphon and e drain or 2 gravity fed drains. I let you guys know how it turns out
Ok, with that in mind, I would recommend just putting a strainer on the current elbow for the 1" line and get rid of that screen. Something like this:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulkh...l?sku=207113&gclid=CNn_46uX19ECFUW2wAoden0M8A
Just turn the strainer horizontal.
Then, build up the larger line the same way, at the same height. Then, just turn on the pumps and see how high you can turn them up and still have the drains keep up without being all that close to siphoning. If they are close to siphoning then you run a much higher risk that they will overflow with a slight clog. My guess is that you will be able to run the current pump and the new DCT 6000 at full flow and be fine.
I would still put gate valves on both drains, just so that you can shut them off if you need to change up the plumbing inside the tank. I recommend gate valves because hand valves have a lot more restriction than gate valves and you're really looking for max performance.
I honestly can't see a better option without drilling the tank for another/larger overflow.
Just an FYI, I run two Rio 20HF pumps (very comparable to the DCT 6000 as far as flow goes, IMO) on my 220 and I run three 1.5" drains. One of them is slightly higher for the herbie style (because I need it silent) and the other two are choked back with regular pvc hand valves. The two that are choked down are both not quite closed half way and that holds siphon with the emergency drain just keeping dry. With that setup, I'm pushing about 1,600gph total through those two 1.5" lines that are not quite closed halfway.
I dont like runningy pumps full throttle. Im going to recommend that he gets the dct 1200 and run it on the lower settings
