New Build ~ 600 Gallon
- Thread starter JK47
- Start date
It doesn't adjust for hot running out. That isn't really an issue because when hot water does run out, the amount dripped is a drop in the bucket compared to the tank volumes. Its just a regular drip system for 20 minutes or so
There are no modules for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I wish there were.. A lot more freshwater guys would control their systems if so. There are many different modules that can be added to the system that will work with freshwater. The leak detection one for example is one of the modules I added
Thanks for the detailed breakdown on the Apex and outlets! You really have thought this through!
Second question, rather than going the O2 route have you considered ozone instead? You can use an ORP probe for it which is $50 or $60, it can help kill diseases, clear the water and when the ozone breaks down it raises the dissolved oxygen. Some precautions that need to be taken but overall it is pretty easy to set up.
Seriously the more you post about this build the more jealous I am. Great job, it is all so well thought out!
Can the 832 bar handle that much power running through it? I'm not sure on the limits for it, I just wasn't sure if it would be able to handle all of that without going over it's amp limit? Though I just looked up the dart, I guess they are only .8 amps each. I was thinking they were closer to the hammerhead which is something like three. So I guess you are probably good there.
Second question, rather than going the O2 route have you considered ozone instead? You can use an ORP probe for it which is $50 or $60, it can help kill diseases, clear the water and when the ozone breaks down it raises the dissolved oxygen. Some precautions that need to be taken but overall it is pretty easy to set up.
Seriously the more you post about this build the more jealous I am. Great job, it is all so well thought out!
The 832 bar can handle it. It will also warn you via text and an audible if you are overloading an outlet. Technically that is where I want it to be overloaded so I can be alerted vs finding out the hard way. I can easily switch heaters to the static bar if needed. Those are static bars are 15 amp each. The outlet to the panel is a stand alone 20 amp breaker and brand new.
You hit the nail on the head for why I chose darts instead.
I have not thought about ozone at all. In fact I have never even looked it up to be quite honest. I'm old school in some areas and probably behind the times.
That is pretty dang cool it'll alert you to that. I imagine the heaters will also be controlled by the Apex temp probe rather than just the internal thermostat?
Ozone is another one of those things that is popular on the SW side of things, though it seems to come and go as far as popularity, it certainly isn't a new thing. Some people like to use it in place of UV.
Anyway thanks again for the detailed replies!
Ozone is another one of those things that is popular on the SW side of things, though it seems to come and go as far as popularity, it certainly isn't a new thing. Some people like to use it in place of UV.
Anyway thanks again for the detailed replies!
No problem at all, I enjoy discussing this stuff. I know this is a foreign concept to a lot of those on the FW side, or, at a minimum a lot of people have questions. It took me a while to see the value.
I will use the temp probe on the Apex because that gear is much more reliable and lab grade. Heaters fail much for frequently than an Apex.
I believe Cory, from Aquarium Co-op, runs his auto water change system at his store with a similar mixing valve.
LOL. I know all about condensation on pipes. I pretty much covered our entire unfinished basement area with pipe insulation. I will say it has worked wonderfully.
Thx man. When you get around to stsrting that thread tag me, if you can remember lol. I have tons of questions no where near ready to tackle it yet so no rush
