I don't think sodium thiosulfate is working

DRteugelsi

Potamotrygon
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From a trusted source, I'm sure there are plenty others posted on the web.

Instructions for the Aquarium and Pond use of Sodium Thiosulfate Crystals

http://www.jonahsaquarium.com/JonahSite/dechlor.htm
Thanks for the response. I do believe it was chloramines because after dosing the API water conditioner and putting a bubbler in over night the fish seem to be doing fine.

And in the original post RD. RD. i believe you said it was virtually impossible to overdose so I thought I'd rather be safe than sorry and I added more than I needed

For years I'd been doing it the same way with the water conditioners and wanted to try out the sodium thiosulfate because I thought if I could save a little money on that I could spend more somewhere else on the fish.

I guess as the old saying goes "if ain't broke don't fix it."

I appreciate all the help once again.
 
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DRteugelsi

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Yeah I'm going to try out prime first and then switch to safe once I got the 300 gallon up and running.

It's not like it's really expensive for me as is seeing as I currently only have a combined volume of 90 gallons. Not sure why I was trying to save money on something that only cost me like 6 dollars every 2-3 months lol. I guess I just wanted to be lazy and not have to run out to get it as often.
 
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RD.

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it was virtually impossible to overdose
I never said that - but I have read that a number of times over the years about sodium thiosulfate. Personally I have never used sodium thiosulfate - we have had chloramine treated tap water here for many years. I started with Prime, then went to Cloram-X, then approx. 10 yrs ago when I found a company that would ship Safe to Canada, I began using Safe and have never looked back.

Either way, I would highly recommend not stopping here, and finding out EXACTLY what your local water supply company is using for disinfectant, and at what level. (mg/l or ppm). Without that data you are playing by guess or by golly, as you will have no idea how much conditioner you should be adding at each water change. The info on the water conditioner label only helps those who know what level of residuals they are treating.

As an example, in my case I have approx. 2ppm chloramine year round, a bit more during heavy rain, and during spring run off, so at those times I add slightly more than normal. But I know from the very get go that I am treating a baseline of 2 ppm. not 1 ppm, not 1.5 ppm, and not 4 ppm. It makes a difference, to your wallet, and potentially to the fish as products such as Prime & Safe are reducing agents, and when they are done reducing chlorine, they will look for something else to reduce, such as oxygen. You CAN indeed overdose with those products - I have seen it first hand. Not a pretty sight when hundreds of $$$$ worth of fish get dead from something as basic as operator error.
 
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RD.

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DRteugelsi

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I got my water access report. I live in lancaster ohio by the way.

My chlorine is 1.05 with a range of 0.96-1.17ppm
Lead: 2.13 ppb (parts per billion)
Copper: 0.663ppm
Bromodichloromethane: 0.79 ppb
Dibromochloromethane: 0.77 ppb

The last two on the list are based off the south plant which is where i should be getting my water from.
 

DRteugelsi

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Thinking maybe it could be the metals in the water??? Because for whatever reason the actual water conditioner fixed my problem?

And no readings of nitrate from the south plant where my water should come from but the north plant has 0.25ppm reading
 

skjl47

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are reducing agents, and when they are done reducing chlorine, they will look for something else to reduce, such as oxygen. You CAN indeed overdose with those products -
Hello; been following this thread to add to my education. I may be wrong but the quoted comment from RD's post may be worth consideration. If indeed you added a massive dose (overdose) the Oxygen in the water may have ben reduced?
 
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