Help needed with bracing a unique 200g

infamous

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 10, 2009
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canada
Hello MFK people!!
So I got a STUPID good deal on a custom built 200g 80Lx22Hx26W. I ended up paying $240 usd for tank, large eheim canister which is plumbed into the tank and a basic 2x4 stand, which i have since painted and built cabinets for. After filling up the aquarium, I've come to notice some fairly heavy bowing on the front sheet which makes me a little uncomfortable when dealing with this volume of water. Now due to the unique design of this tank, I'm really going to have to get creative in bracing as the back panel is much much taller than the front.. I'll post a pic to show what I mean.

My current thought are to silicone a 2x4 flat against the back panel and run either wood or glass sheets across from the 2x4 to the front panel to brace. I'm thinking this should work but I've never braced an aquarium like this and really have no idea how well it would work long term..

Anyone creative enough to think of a better solution to my problem?? Let's see what ya got my fellow DIY MFKers!!!

20170720_123636.jpg
 

Drstrangelove

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Oct 21, 2012
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I assume this is acrylic.

I don't think wood is a good long term solution, so I'd opt not to use wood even if wood could be attached. I've heard glass and acrylic won't work together (but others can correct that.) So I would think the brace materials have to be acrylic.

How thick is the back piece above the water line? Is it all one solid panel with equal thickness top to bottom? Does the back panel bow equally?

Can you take a pic of the bowing? Or measure it?

It's possible your idea would work with a single acrylic piece running along inside the back panel welded to a couple braces from the front top. (Basically, your idea.) I think knowing the strength of the panels might help determine how to attach the braces.

Another option (if the back panel doesn't bow) is to attach a thick piece of acrylic along the inside top of the front panel. In theory, it should inhibit bowing in the same way euro bracing works.
 

infamous

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 10, 2009
220
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canada
Believe it or not the entire tank is made with 3/8 glass! Each pane of glass are one solid piece cut to shape. Apparently this aquarium was built for a show home. I'm assuming the owner was blowing it out due to the bowing and not knowing how to fix it.

To be honest, I can't take a picture of the bowing for a number of reasons.. ive removed the floor support in my basement beneath this tank during renos so I've been running this tank at like 60% volume for a month or so and my wild umbee pair are HATING it. Plan is for this tank to go downstairs once the renos are done in a week or so. Second, my butt puckers a little every time I fill it beyond 80% lol.
Truth is, I've had some slight bowing on aquariums before; none of which have ever bothered me.. that being said, this bowing is drastic and I'm certain it must be braced. The back panel does not bow what so ever.

Perhaps the pseudo euro bracing on the front may be my smartest option. Never even thought of that.

Now for curiousoty sake, if I were to go the wood route, isn't there a paint thats non toxic and that would seal the wood? I swear I saw joey (king of diy) using a product like this at some point..

Part of me wants to turn this entire setup into a puldarium type enclosure using the extra space on top to build a vivarium for some dart frogs with the umbees below. Game changing Columbia biotope display if you ask me!!!!
 
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millerkid519

Aimara
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Feb 16, 2015
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I would personally Euro brace the tank with glass due to the height and thickness of the tank. I don't remember Joey doing that but you could use pond shield or epoxy resin with 2x4 but that would look ugly
 
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infamous

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 10, 2009
220
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canada
I love the idea of the euro brace but i do see some potential issues.
If you look at the picture, the side panels have those triangular cuts going all the way to the front; flush with the front panel. If i were to euro brace, i would only be able to silicone the front brace to the front panel and it would have to be siliconed along the inside of the side panel instead of resting ontop as typical euro bracing goes.
 

millerkid519

Aimara
MFK Member
Feb 16, 2015
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I would not go right to the top with the euro brace. I would just go around the perimeter perpendicular with the base. You could then usr the euro brace as a base to build your vivarium off of.

Edit.
I misunderstood what you ment. It is fine to put the Euro brace on the inside of the sides and back. The difference between sheer strength and tensile strength with silicone is negligible
 

wannadivesteve

Candiru
MFK Member
Sep 10, 2015
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I don't totally get your euro-brace explanation. I would euro-brace the front and back at the exact same level on the insides with 3/8th (? probably that thickness) by 4 inch or so glass then have pieces on the end that essentially rest on the previous two braces and go across being siliconed to the first braces and the end pieces. I might even think about a 12 inch cross brace front to back in the middle if I didn't need a completley open top.

I could see bracing the back piece from the back with another material if you wanted to keep the back panel looking like one solid piece (short of putting in a background both above and below the inside brace that hides the brace), that way the only euro-bracking tht would show would be on the inside front and sides.
 

Bigfishnut

Silver Tier VIP
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Aug 28, 2016
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I can't believe anyone would build a tank that big out of 3/8" glass and not use bracing!! Wow, talk about living on the edge! I'd probably just retrofit a hardwood plywood brace over the top coated in pond shield. Maybe 2 braces front to back 2" wide and a 2" strip around the perimeter. Euro bracing out of glass would work also...probably cheaper too
 

Drstrangelove

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Oct 21, 2012
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Believe it or not the entire tank is made with 3/8 glass!
So if the from piece is 22" tall, then 3/8" glass will have a ~ 2.5 safety factor. Which is "safe" but thinner than people normally would want. Thus, the deflection.

I would certainly want more bracing, but it's not like the tank will explode otherwise, so imo anything you add properly that restricts deflection is going to make the tank safer. If the front bows, the back is likely under the same stress, although the larger size may make it harder to notice or may in fact be reducing some of the bowing.

Have you considered cutting the top to make it "normal" so that standard bracing could be added? I haven't cut 3/8" glass, but I'm sure it can be done by someone.

If that's not an option, than I'd add bracing.


Even this would reduce the bowing if not also allow for a top brace to be added on both front and back.
Cornerfilter-braces.jpg
 

eddiegunks

Piranha
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Mar 6, 2017
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Cut a slit ito the rear panel. Then attach a center brace or two just like you would for any aquarium.

Or just run a center brace or two diagonally right to the current top.

A euro brace on the inside top would be a goid addition. Then do one of the above.

I like your idea of having a jungle above the water. Sounds great.
 
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