Possible new tank with sump

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Bigtdotcom

Bigtdotcom

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Oct 8, 2009
426
57
61
Gold Coast
I Viewed a new (second hand) tank today, it is 72x24x30 aproxx 200gal. Its a great deal and the tank is drilled for a sump. I have never had a sump before (but would really like to try one) I done a bit of research and have the general idea how they work. The tank im looking at has two hole drilled in it, on in each back corner, when inspecting the tank i noticed the bulk head was labeled 1 1/4 inch (30mm) i assume both holes are the same size. From my research i think these holes might be a bit to small??? will be housing american in the tank. Sump was also set with with a DIY trickel tower made from plastic draws. In the past when i have been resheching sumps i was always drawn to the use of the herbie system, a weir to conceal the over flow pipes, filter socks and baffels. So complety different to what i seen today but as i said it is for sale for a good price and in really good condition . Trying to work out my options if i go ahead and buy the tank. I dont want this to turn in to a massive project taking ages and costing loads.... basically i just want to set it up with a few minor tweaks and sit back and enjoy (will definitely need to paint the stand). So hear are what options i have came up with.

1. Block the holes and just use canisters
2. Run canister through the drilled holes
3. Block holes and run canisters for now, set up sump at a later date and change sump and set it up as an open sump with filter socks


Also what type of flow can i expect from 1 14/4 drain pipe, could i get this sum running silent? The cabinet is set up for a 3 ft sump tank, no bigger due to the legs ect

At this stage i am leaning towards option 3.... As the holes are so high up in the tank i could easily lower the water level while working on the sump
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bigtdotcom
You could always drill more holes. It is very easy.

Run a sump. It is a FAR better option than canisters.

You could run the return lines over the side if you dont want to drill more holes.

Run a sump.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jhay3513
If you have the time set up the sump now, you will not regret taking the time to do it Grab a drill and drill a few more holes it is not hard at all. Another thing is to go to your hardware store and see if they have 1.25 fittings and pipe. Where I am from you will be hard pressed to find anything 1.25. In my opinion a 200g should hav atleast
 
$_20 (1).PNG $_20.PNG $_20 (2).PNG $_20 (1).PNG $_20.PNG $_20 (2).PNG Thanks for the encouragement, i really wanna try out a sump, its just this set up wasnt exactly how i had it planed in my head but im thinking i could make it work pretty easily.
Thanks eddiegunks for the pipe flow info, was a bit confused at first but correct me if im wrong but my under standing would be a 1.25' pipe could flow about 1800 g/ph? so 3360 g/ph between the 2 pipes?
Would i be best to run drains out of each of the 2 holes in the back of the tank? and run the output over the side/back. If using 2 dain is it adviserbal to connect both drains together so the can be controlled by one gate vavle? or better to use 2 gate valves? How risky is it not to have an emergency drain? When the power is shut off will the display tank drain all the way to the bottom of the drilled hole or will it drain to the bottom of the intake drain pipe? I know there need it be enough room in the sump for all the water that will drain from main tank + whats already in the sump, think the perviuos owner run the water level in the sum pretty low. Also how do you set the water level in the display tank? I would like the water level to be hidden by the canopy if at all possible. will siphon start automatically once power is switched back on. Would nicw if the stand was designed different and could accommadate a larger sump. Sorry about all the questions but im new to sumps.

Basically can i set this up to run completely silent with filter socks for mechanical, open sump for bio and returns hooked up the back (canister style)

pics from the for sale add
 
Bigtdotcom Bigtdotcom

I find figuring the exact flow to be chlenging at best. It has to do with how much water is above the pipe and how long the pipe is that is "sucking" the water.

I have a pond i am working on. I figured my flow at 4320 gph with a horizontal 2 inch pipe. (75 gallon awuarium sump that flowed 60 gallons in 50 seconds). So i thought, great, i have it figured out. Then i added a 4 inch piece of pipe as a down spout, to help with water splash, and the flow increased! That 4 inches of verticle pipe "pulled" more water.

Some members and i had a huge difference of opinions about 1 gate valve or 2. Personally i run one pipe at near full flow (long story. I introduced air. You should not introduce air) and the other i control with a ball valve. I buy the more expensive ball valves that have the ability to adjust the resistence in the valve handle when turning. This gives you better fine control adjustments.

That being said, i think the key to what the other members were using was the fact that they run two lines into a BIGGER line, then into their one gate valve. If you run two 1.25" together into a common 1.25" line you will only have the flow of one 1.25. (Lets say 1800gph for discussion. If you run two independent lines you will have 3600gph. If you Tee them into one common 1.25 line you will only have 1800). I think if you were to tee both lines into one 3 inch (or maybe 4 inch) it would still flow the 3600. I would error on bigger. I suspect a 2.5" wont flow max. I would hedge in a 3 inch min if you went this way. J jaws7777

Being you only have two drains consider this. Run one drain at full siphon. Calculate your actual flow. If it is infact 1800 or more that flips your tank nearly 10 times. That is good i think. Then you could run your second drain as an emergency drain. The second drain would be basically dry. May not be 100% ideal, but the chance of your 1 drain running zero flow would be highly unlikely. If you noticed your E drain flowing water you could then investigate a possible restiction in your main drain. Call it early warning. I basically keep an ete on my drains and clean them routinely. ( i use a sanitary Tee so i can access the drain for maintenance)

When buying a pump remember head height.

As for sump capacity. Take your tank gallons (200) and divide buy your height (30). This will give your your gallons per inch. You have approx. 6.66 gallons per inch. Measure the water from the top of your drain to the top of the water level. Mutiply by 6.66. Do the same for your sump. Then figure out how many inches of sump space you need to accomadate the drain from the tank. Remember not to let your return siphon water.....or calculate that amount.

Example. Using your tank and a factictious sump. Lets say the sump is 48x13x16 (about 40 gallons). This sump holds 2.5 gallons per inch (40/16=2.5)

So. If your tank was 2 inch above the drain that would be 2x6.66= 13.32 gallons. So 13.32/2.5 = 5.32 inches of sump space is neaded. So your max water line in your sump would need to be a MINIMUM of 5.32 inches from the top. Obviously add a margine of error.....:)

Another tip. Bioballs work beat on trickle NOT submerged. (I found out the hard way). So use other media if you go submerged.

I hope this makes sense.....and is helpful.
 
Id keep the tank as is and run returns over the back. Drilling glass isn't easy its not to hard either but you need a glass hole saw and how to do it the right way to make it "easy". As for how much flow how much flow do you think you need in there? you'll be able to get more then two canisters would get you. Wet dry like in the pic would work great for your filter too. Way better then messing with a canister. You said you wanted plug and play sit back and relax....so why don't you?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigtdotcom
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom