305 Gallon Build W/ 120 Gallon Sump

[JK47]

Ok cool. I noticed JK47 uses carbon filters too I just worry about the water having enough time to make contact with the filters to remove all the potential chlorine. Guess trying and testing is the only way to know. No issues with pH or need to add minerals back in etc? I’m certain my initial fill of the tank and sump will have so much volume that I will require some means of liquid water treatment/additives ...

One if the worst things new hobbiest do is try to alter chemisty like pH, hardness etc.. 80%-90% of the fish available in the hobby do better with consistency over altered and fluctuating water chemistry.

The only needed thing to change water is a dechlorinator like prime (SeaChem product). A small amount treats a tank rapidly. Great stuff.

 

[Bigfishnut]

Yup. You'll still need to do occasional water changes. I run a 1.5" pvc bulkhead off my sump for the drip drain. I also run a 3/4" bulkhead about 10" off the bottom of the tank to do water changes fast and easy. I set it all up so I can drain and fill just by turning valves. Makes my life very easy!

 

[GoldFinger]

One if the worst things new hobbiest do is try to alter chemisty like pH, hardness etc.. 80%-90% of the fish available in the hobby do better with consistency over altered and fluctuating water chemistry.

The only needed thing to change water is a dechlorinator like prime (SeaChem product). A small amount treats a tank rapidly. Great stuff.

Ok so prime for initial fill and keep on hand for large water change if ever needed. Aside from that I’m plumbing in some carbon block filters and will have those ready to supply my tank for water changes and drip system. How did you determine the rate/gph to set your dripping water? Once I’m plumbed and ready to go I will need to have it filling accordingly so my water is up to monster fish keeper standards

 

[GoldFinger]

I am redoing this soon to clean up the appearance. For now it function over form. The pics:

To control the temperature I use a thermostatic mixing valve (Honeywell model: #AM100C-UPEX-1LF) which lets you set the degrees to a constant temp. You have you splice into hot lines as well off of any hot water source. To splice into the lines, this approach will set you back $200 in parts ($180 of which is the valve) vs $10 with a cold drip. This will replace most watts used by heaters so it pays for itself. You’re a plumber. Help a guy make this look better will ya?!?

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Now that we have warm water supply, it gets filtered through a 5 micron sediment filter. This is important because cities will purge systems every so often. This keeps your carbon filters from plugging at that time. Then through x2 Matrix CTO carbon block filters. Two stage to remove chlorine. Make sure to get your municipal water supply annual report to know how they treat. Sometimes it’s chloramine.

If you are on well water this whole step can be skipped all together. I would still do sediment though. No reason not to.

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These are all RO fittings and valves from Bulk Reef Supply. This is quality gear. The Home Depot stuff works well. The amazon cheap stuff is horrible. Spend here.

I split x1 line into x4. Each has a 4 GPH (Gallon Per Hour) drip emitter. Since they are RO quick disconnect, they can swap out for lesser GPH emitters in seconds. I replace emitters annually since they are cheap. So with the turn of a sexy valve it goes from 4-16 GPH or any other configuration you like. This is where I left off last night on th 800 setup.

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Obviously this design can be improved by someone like yourself but this is my DIY approach that is proven and works. Hope that helps

Forgot to ask what is that coil I’m seeing in the sump? Also Are those two pvc lines drains or are you running an external pump for your returns? Looks legit

 

[JK47]

Ok so prime for initial fill and keep on hand for large water change if ever needed. Aside from that I’m plumbing in some carbon block filters and will have those ready to supply my tank for water changes and drip system. How did you determine the rate/gph to set your dripping water? Once I’m plumbed and ready to go I will need to have it filling accordingly so my water is up to monster fish keeper standards

Correct. Add water, dose correct amount for tank, and keep a spare bottle around. It’s a great to have handy especially while cycling tanks. Another benefit of prime is that it converts toxic ammonia into ammonium. Still not great but can help safe some fish. It’s a must have IMO.

To set the drip amount I start on the high end, keep a close eye on parameters and test often. After a while you gain some trust. After you’ve built a few and know the high and low ends of your system and it’s easy. I have lots of young rays who eat heavily so is better for my needs. I completely trust my systems.

 

[JK47]

Forgot to ask what is that coil I’m seeing in the sump? Also Are those two pvc lines drains or are you running an external pump for your returns? Looks legit

Thanks! Big project.. Stainless has stellar heat transfer properties. Down the road I may want to plumb in a recirculating pump off my hot water heater to use minimal watts in heaters. I don’t have a need right now but won’t have access for a coil later.

The large PVC are inlets from the sump to the pumps. Union ball valves make swapping out pumps a few minute job. Well worth the cost. Yes external pumps a reeflo hammerhead and dart. Monster setup.

 

[GoldFinger]

My hot water is softened and I’d rather not have to run a separate filter to remove sodium and chlorine, so if I just run filtered cold for the drip system will the heaters in my sump be good enough or would this be less efficient? Also, I figured 2gph drip will give me 336 gallons of water changed a week. Including my sump I’ll have roughly 400 gallons of water so that should be more than enough right? Looks like a Home Depot compensating drip emitter is the best option and less likely to plug up or fail.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.2-gph-compensating-dripper-4-pack.1000143244.html

 

[JK47]

My hot water is softened and I’d rather not have to run a separate filter to remove sodium and chlorine, so if I just run filtered cold for the drip system will the heaters in my sump be good enough or would this be less efficient? Also, I figured 2gph drip will give me 336 gallons of water changed a week. Including my sump I’ll have roughly 400 gallons of water so that should be more than enough right? Looks like a Home Depot compensating drip emitter is the best option and less likely to plug up or fail.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.2-gph-compensating-dripper-4-pack.1000143244.html

Correct. Make sure you test your home water pressure though. Those emitters are only rated to like 45. I run mine at 55 PSI but regardless you should check yours. AT 2 GPH your heaters will keep up just fine. Ensure you have a heat compensating plan if your temp drops too much from, higher drip rate if you raise it later.

 

[twentyleagues]

I just got an 8 line emitter from a hydro store handles up to 80psi and each line is .75gph so it' "adjustable" from .75 to 6 gph depending on how many lines you use. Cost was $15. Has 1/2 threads that I adapted to a garden hose attachment.

 

[twentyleagues]

This is what I got right here. Like I said local grow shop but online it's even cheaper..... I'll have to find my receipt it mat have been closer to $10. Anyway
https://www.dripworks.com/media/cat...525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/o/c/octabubbler1_1.jpg