Angelphish
really not having luck with this this store, already back at 12:30 in the afternoon and they arent open again...This is the name of the store incase you want to see if there is anyway to contct them...
12x8x8
- Thread starter convict360
- Start date
Angelphish
really not having luck with this this store, already back at 12:30 in the afternoon and they arent open again...This is the name of the store incase you want to see if there is anyway to contct them...
I'll try to email the owner. Hopefully he knows enough english to be able to read my email.
This is the name of the store incase you want to see if there is anyway to contct them...
View attachment 1289341
Angelphish
found their FB page but thats bout it... would try through there to contact them maybe...https://m.facebook.com/AquastoryCompany/?locale2=zh_HK
I sent to link to Wes a few weeks ago, although I'm sure he got it. I'll send it to him again when I make my next order.
https://m.facebook.com/AquastoryCompany/?locale2=zh_HK
I've been quite busy recently, so I have a few updates on the 16.
The Rhinogobius sp. Red Lips and the male Sineleotris passed away within the first couple of weeks. At the time nothing appeared to be wrong with the water, with the only thing being somewhat abnormal was the pH at 6.3. I read that Sineleotris were somewhat delicate, and after the male Sineleotris passed, I ordered pH and TDS pens to use rather than the liquid test kits, so I could get a more accurate reading. After calibrating the pH pen, it read 5.45, rather than 6.3 like the liquid test kit had. This was surprising to see, as API kits will give a yellow reading if the pH is 6.0 or below, whereas mine gave a slightly green reading. I discussed this with Wes so he knew it wasn't because there was something wrong with his fish.
Since then, I've been heavily monitoring the pH to make sure it stays around 7.0 with the CO2 on. I'm even considering programming my raspberry pi to act as an aquarium controller that would monitor and correct the pH for me.
Thankfully, since I learned about the issue with the pH and attended it, it's been hovering around 7, and Gary, the female Sineleotris and the Cories have all been doing well.
Fat Homer
convict360
Hendre
Wetspot currently has Hemigrammus coeruleus in, and I'm considering a school of 6-10 for the 16, as they're colorful enough to be eye catching, but so colorful that they're tacky. Along with that, they are, of course, rare. Any thoughts or past experiences with these fish?
If I can get my parents' approval, I'm also to use the 20 long to breed betta channoides or Betta albimarginata.
convict360
If you don't mind, the aquascape would likely be a rip off of one of yours. I plan to use seachem flourite red for the color, size, and shape, dragon stone, and a small piece of driftwood. The plants would mostly consist of common low tech plants. I'm not fully sure on all the plants I want to use, although I do plan to at least have dwarf sagittaria, as I like the thin carpet it creates. I would temporarily set up the smaller (2.5, 3, 4 gallon) tanks for the fry every time the bettas bred. Thoughts?
The Rhinogobius sp. Red Lips and the male Sineleotris passed away within the first couple of weeks. At the time nothing appeared to be wrong with the water, with the only thing being somewhat abnormal was the pH at 6.3. I read that Sineleotris were somewhat delicate, and after the male Sineleotris passed, I ordered pH and TDS pens to use rather than the liquid test kits, so I could get a more accurate reading. After calibrating the pH pen, it read 5.45, rather than 6.3 like the liquid test kit had. This was surprising to see, as API kits will give a yellow reading if the pH is 6.0 or below, whereas mine gave a slightly green reading. I discussed this with Wes so he knew it wasn't because there was something wrong with his fish.
Since then, I've been heavily monitoring the pH to make sure it stays around 7.0 with the CO2 on. I'm even considering programming my raspberry pi to act as an aquarium controller that would monitor and correct the pH for me.
Thankfully, since I learned about the issue with the pH and attended it, it's been hovering around 7, and Gary, the female Sineleotris and the Cories have all been doing well.
Fat Homer
convict360
Hendre
Wetspot currently has Hemigrammus coeruleus in, and I'm considering a school of 6-10 for the 16, as they're colorful enough to be eye catching, but so colorful that they're tacky. Along with that, they are, of course, rare. Any thoughts or past experiences with these fish?If I can get my parents' approval, I'm also to use the 20 long to breed betta channoides or Betta albimarginata.
convict360
If you don't mind, the aquascape would likely be a rip off of one of yours. I plan to use seachem flourite red for the color, size, and shape, dragon stone, and a small piece of driftwood. The plants would mostly consist of common low tech plants. I'm not fully sure on all the plants I want to use, although I do plan to at least have dwarf sagittaria, as I like the thin carpet it creates. I would temporarily set up the smaller (2.5, 3, 4 gallon) tanks for the fry every time the bettas bred. Thoughts?
TBH the small PH swings won't do all that much, TDS swings however will cause havoc!
I have never kept anything like those tetras but wow looks awesome!
For a breeding tank keep it simple, fluorite is a pain to keep clean. Labyrinth fish love floating cover, past that happy camping
I have never kept anything like those tetras but wow looks awesome!
For a breeding tank keep it simple, fluorite is a pain to keep clean. Labyrinth fish love floating cover, past that happy camping
Around the same time I ordered the pH pen, I upgraded the filter from an eheim 2211 to a fluval g3. The water has been astonishingly clear, and it gives 185gph of actual flow, which is enough to eliminate the need for a circulation pump. The filter screams quality, and everything about it is simple, easy, and intuitive.
The body of the filter is made of a thin but sturdy plastic, and the trim around the bottom is actually made of the same material rather than metal. The top is also made of the same plastic, except for the handles, which are all metal. The only exception is the tubing quick release handle, which is a solid piece of the before mentioned plastic, presumably so it would match the rest of the filter since it sits flush.
The inside of the filter was even nicer. The media baskets along with the sleeves for the mechanical and chemical media are all made of an even nicer plastic. The media it came with was also quite nice. At least as far as looks, the biological media seems comparable to substrat pro, although the mechanical and chemical media are much nicer. The mechanical media is actually not a sponge like in most filters, but a mesh tube with deep vertical ridges. The chemical media was similar in shape, with the only difference being the ridges. So far the nitrate hasn't passed 20ppm, and the water is clearer than the water in the 210, which I consider very clear, that runs a sump with 4, 200 micron filter socks at 1400gph.
One of the biggest selling points for me was the ease of maintenance. Two weeks and one plant trimming in, I cleaned the mechanical media. It was as simple as lifting the main handle, opening the lid, pulling out the media, and cleaning it with the included brush. All this was done within 5-7 minutes, and without needing to unplug the filter. I haven't needed to clean the chemical media, but I assume it's rechargeable, or at least the container that holds the media is reusable. The biological media will take more time to clean, although it's also a simple process. The four handles on the side need to be pulled, then the top of the filter can be removed and the media accessed.
The filter is also highly customizable, much more than I originally expected. The date, and time can be changed, along with the amount of time it takes for the display to time out. On top of this, it provides graphs of the water's temperature, conductivity and flow, over the past 48 days. If any of which fall outside of the set range, the display will flash on and off with an alert screen. I believe the conductivity is set to 300-600 out of the box, and temperature at 72-80, although both of which can be set to the users' preferred range. The flow range is the only one that cannot be alerted, which isn't an issue, as there isn't really a need to.
This post became much more of a review than I wanted it to be, but I wanted to go in detail about the filter because there isn't too much information about it outside of what Fluval provides.
The body of the filter is made of a thin but sturdy plastic, and the trim around the bottom is actually made of the same material rather than metal. The top is also made of the same plastic, except for the handles, which are all metal. The only exception is the tubing quick release handle, which is a solid piece of the before mentioned plastic, presumably so it would match the rest of the filter since it sits flush.
The inside of the filter was even nicer. The media baskets along with the sleeves for the mechanical and chemical media are all made of an even nicer plastic. The media it came with was also quite nice. At least as far as looks, the biological media seems comparable to substrat pro, although the mechanical and chemical media are much nicer. The mechanical media is actually not a sponge like in most filters, but a mesh tube with deep vertical ridges. The chemical media was similar in shape, with the only difference being the ridges. So far the nitrate hasn't passed 20ppm, and the water is clearer than the water in the 210, which I consider very clear, that runs a sump with 4, 200 micron filter socks at 1400gph.
One of the biggest selling points for me was the ease of maintenance. Two weeks and one plant trimming in, I cleaned the mechanical media. It was as simple as lifting the main handle, opening the lid, pulling out the media, and cleaning it with the included brush. All this was done within 5-7 minutes, and without needing to unplug the filter. I haven't needed to clean the chemical media, but I assume it's rechargeable, or at least the container that holds the media is reusable. The biological media will take more time to clean, although it's also a simple process. The four handles on the side need to be pulled, then the top of the filter can be removed and the media accessed.
The filter is also highly customizable, much more than I originally expected. The date, and time can be changed, along with the amount of time it takes for the display to time out. On top of this, it provides graphs of the water's temperature, conductivity and flow, over the past 48 days. If any of which fall outside of the set range, the display will flash on and off with an alert screen. I believe the conductivity is set to 300-600 out of the box, and temperature at 72-80, although both of which can be set to the users' preferred range. The flow range is the only one that cannot be alerted, which isn't an issue, as there isn't really a need to.
This post became much more of a review than I wanted it to be, but I wanted to go in detail about the filter because there isn't too much information about it outside of what Fluval provides.
What do you suggest for substrate? I want something with similar color if possible.TBH the small PH swings won't do all that much, TDS swings however will cause havoc!
I have never kept anything like those tetras but wow looks awesome!
For a breeding tank keep it simple, fluorite is a pain to keep clean. Labyrinth fish love floating cover, past that happy camping
