I can't decide if I should just silicone a 1.5 x 1.5" 1/8" aluminum angle around the edges or do like I did with the plywood and use steel coated with pond shield. Steel is a lot cheaper. Then fill the 1/8" gap with silicone. I'm going to put two, 2" wide flat bar spanning front to back welded to the angle under the pvc.
New Tank Build
- Thread starter Aquadog
- Start date
I'm also converting an old tv Armoire into a snake cage. It's for my wifes 2 Corn Snakes that are about 4' and 5' long.
Swapped back over to the Pond Shield/Plywood. After a few tests, wasn't satisfied with the way it turned out with glass, silicone, pond shield, silicone then pvc.
I test fit the panels tonight and the 8' panels are a little closer to the steel than I hoped. I haven't glued it up yet so I'm going to grind down 1/16" off the bottom edges of the glass. I folded some ziptie plastic and slid it between the glass and steel. Hoping to prevent mental/glass contact.
Plan with the PVC is to cut it into tiles to place inside the tank, below the rocks.
I test fit the panels tonight and the 8' panels are a little closer to the steel than I hoped. I haven't glued it up yet so I'm going to grind down 1/16" off the bottom edges of the glass. I folded some ziptie plastic and slid it between the glass and steel. Hoping to prevent mental/glass contact.
Plan with the PVC is to cut it into tiles to place inside the tank, below the rocks.
I used that pvc sheet to make my baffles on my sump and overflow box
worked good
1/4 inch ran cross a table saw and heated to shape
then used Rtv and flame treated befor installation
worked good
1/4 inch ran cross a table saw and heated to shape
then used Rtv and flame treated befor installation
I was actually thinking of using the PVC I have for the overflow as well. I also plan on cutting (3) 1' x 1' pieces to make them into the base point for my rock work. I'll silicone it to the pond shield to help secure it. This will prevent rocks from damaging the pond shield and give me some mount points.
I went all in tonight, and went back to my PVC idea.
After talking to Butch at Pond Armor, he said in order to get Pond Shield to bond to the PVC, I need to prime it with PVC primer and lay down the Pond Shield within a min or two. When I tried it the first time, I think I waited to long and the primer dried up before I applied the epoxy. This allowed the PS to peel off with just a fingernail.
I did a few more trial and error tests on extra pieces of PVC and I found a method that worked.
I removed the old Pond Shield and this time I went with white so I can see where the black silicone is, ensuring a good solid line and seal.
After sanding with 150g, I taped off 1.5" from the channel. Mixed a 6oz cup of Pond Shield, purple primed 4' of the channel and taped off area, and just as the primer started to dry up, I started putting down the epoxy. This made the bond work perfectly. Did this step a few more times and waited 24 hrs to cure. Sanded again with 150g and applied another thin layer of PS and I couldn't scratch if off like I was able to before. I felt comfortable with the bond this time.
I think the trick was not time, but catching the primer quickly, just as it starts to dry.
I welded up 1.5" x 1.5" steel angle, coated it with Rustoleum Bed Liner Spray.
Siliconed the steel frame under the PVC.
Sanded the PS with 150g again and cleaned with alcohol.
For the base, I skipped the silicone injection method and layed out thick bead in the channel before setting the glass in and squeezing the silicone into the gaps. I used SCS 1200 black silicone.
After all 4 panels were silicone into the channel, I moved quick and layed another sealing bead inside the tank and then pulled the tape.
I used the injection method for the sides and then ran a sealing bead on the inside, pulled the tape.
To finish up the base, I went around the outside of the tank and injected the silicone between the glass and steel frame to fill any small gaps left open.
I will let it dry overnight and tomorrow I can work on the bracing.
Water test is going to be nerve racking after the silicone cures in a couple weeks. I will have to fill it with freshwater first thing in the morning, get my coffee and watch TV all day near the tank, checking for leaks.
After talking to Butch at Pond Armor, he said in order to get Pond Shield to bond to the PVC, I need to prime it with PVC primer and lay down the Pond Shield within a min or two. When I tried it the first time, I think I waited to long and the primer dried up before I applied the epoxy. This allowed the PS to peel off with just a fingernail.
I did a few more trial and error tests on extra pieces of PVC and I found a method that worked.
I removed the old Pond Shield and this time I went with white so I can see where the black silicone is, ensuring a good solid line and seal.
After sanding with 150g, I taped off 1.5" from the channel. Mixed a 6oz cup of Pond Shield, purple primed 4' of the channel and taped off area, and just as the primer started to dry up, I started putting down the epoxy. This made the bond work perfectly. Did this step a few more times and waited 24 hrs to cure. Sanded again with 150g and applied another thin layer of PS and I couldn't scratch if off like I was able to before. I felt comfortable with the bond this time.
I think the trick was not time, but catching the primer quickly, just as it starts to dry.
I welded up 1.5" x 1.5" steel angle, coated it with Rustoleum Bed Liner Spray.
Siliconed the steel frame under the PVC.
Sanded the PS with 150g again and cleaned with alcohol.
For the base, I skipped the silicone injection method and layed out thick bead in the channel before setting the glass in and squeezing the silicone into the gaps. I used SCS 1200 black silicone.
After all 4 panels were silicone into the channel, I moved quick and layed another sealing bead inside the tank and then pulled the tape.
I used the injection method for the sides and then ran a sealing bead on the inside, pulled the tape.
To finish up the base, I went around the outside of the tank and injected the silicone between the glass and steel frame to fill any small gaps left open.
I will let it dry overnight and tomorrow I can work on the bracing.
Water test is going to be nerve racking after the silicone cures in a couple weeks. I will have to fill it with freshwater first thing in the morning, get my coffee and watch TV all day near the tank, checking for leaks.
