What type of algae is taking over my tank?

fishblahblah

Jack Dempsey
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I have a 20 long planted tank with cherry shrimp, dwarf crayfish(shufeltii), dwarf mud crabs, white cloud minnows, an oto, and a butterfly loach. I am working on having it heavily planted and have a lot of different types of plants including java moss, crypt, subwassertang, wisteria, najas grass, water sprite, and some other stuff. I’ve been battling this type of algae that covers the plants and driftwood. I stopped liquid ferts (was using seachem flourish at a half dose 1/week) and installed a timer for a more reliable lighting schedule (11.5 hours per day currently) but this stuff is still taking over. It seems to suffocate the leaves it covers and becomes completely covered in small bubbles. I’ve been rubbing it off where i see it and doing twice weekly water changes. What type of algae is this and how do i control it? The shrimp and crayfish seem to be eating it as it becomes free floating after a tank cleaning. I’ve been removing hair algae from the filter output at least once a week and don’t know if this is related or the same type of algae. There’s also a film on the top of the water despite a steady current from the filter. Any help?

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kno4te

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Kind of looks like stag horn. Inbalance in ferts. Gotta get a Siamese algae eater rosy barbs rest tail shake or pleco May eat this stuff. Reduce lights and water changes.
 
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Deadliestviper7

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Kind of looks like stag horn. Inbalance in ferts. Gotta get a Siamese algae eater rosy barbs rest tail shake or pleco May eat this stuff. Reduce lights and water changes.
Agree with above, also can we get mud crab pics?
 

fishblahblah

Jack Dempsey
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Kind of looks like stag horn. Inbalance in ferts. Gotta get a Siamese algae eater rosy barbs rest tail shake or pleco May eat this stuff. Reduce lights and water changes.
Ok, thanks. So i should reduce lighting and reduce or increase water changes?
 
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fishblahblah

Jack Dempsey
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Here’s one of the dwarf mud crabs. They’re the perfect size for a nano tank and I’ve never seen them attack anything, shrimp, crays, or one another. They find a little hiding spot in any nook or cranny they can fit. I originally was looking for micro crabs and came across these guys.
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
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kno4te

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fishblahblah

Jack Dempsey
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11 hours of light is the part that is sticking out to me. I would cut that way back by like 3 hours.
Ok. I’m still a newb to live aquarium plants so any help is appreciated. I’ve changed my timer to be on for 9 hours, I’ve done a large water change, and i also read about using hydrogen peroxide to control algae. I dosed 3 ml/gallon (60 ml) earlier today with no ill effects to the stock so I’ll do that daily along with water changes for the week. I’ll change my timer again to cut it down to 8 hours now also.
 

TheWolfman

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I’ve ne
Ok. I’m still a newb to live aquarium plants so any help is appreciated. I’ve changed my timer to be on for 9 hours, I’ve done a large water change, and i also read about using hydrogen peroxide to control algae. I dosed 3 ml/gallon (60 ml) earlier today with no ill effects to the stock so I’ll do that daily along with water changes for the week. I’ll change my timer again to cut it down to 8 hours now also.
I’ve never tried hydrogen peroxide in a aquarium, some controversy about it killing off bio. After 6 to 8 hours of light your plants have done as much photosynthesis as they can in a day, after that your just feeding the Algee. Less ferts less light and small frequent water changes are the way I would battle it.
 

Fat Homer

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With peroxide, i found it works best if you load it into a syringe first, then directly apply it over the effected areas...

But becareful as i’ve heard some plants maybe senstive to peroixide...

Your other option is to remove the plants / decor, bleach dip those items, followed by rinsing them very well under tap water and giving them another bath in prime followed by another rinse before going into the tank...

Again got to be careful as some plants do not like bleach dips...
 
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