I worked in both capacities at a water filtration plant for about 20 years, probably why I get a bit long winded on both subjects.... either a chemist or a microbiologist?
Why did you add prime after the new water was in? You should add prime in the area before you put new water in, especially with that large of a water change. Pre-mixing in a trashcan is better.I believe it was because I do 70-80% water changes along with the fact that I added the prime after all the new water was in that they had problems.
How long did you let the water circulate in the trashcan?Eventually I left the pump running in the trash can letting it circulate the water before I pumped it into the tank and they stopped breathing hard.
I mentioned this to the OP months ago, so I'm not sure why this is suddenly surprising news?Why did you add prime after the new water was in? You should add prime in the area before you put new water in,
A to long response is better than a to short response .I worked in both capacities at a water filtration plant for about 20 years, probably why I get a bit long winded on both subjects.
In my mind I thought that prime worked instantly and would only treat the water that it got to that instant therefor it would not treat any water added after the prime was added which is why I added it last. Beginner mistake I suppose.Why did you add prime after the new water was in? You should add prime in the area before you put new water in, especially with that large of a water change. Pre-mixing in a trashcan is better.
I tend to let the water circulate for a few minutes before I start pumping it into the tank.How long did you let the water circulate in the trashcan?
I generally let it circulate for at least 1 hour so ensure that the water is fully dechlorinated (I have 4ppm chloramine in my tap).
It's more like a gentle current but I'm currently looking into stronger pumps that can really move water so it will circulate it better and help me fill the tank faster.Was the surface of the water in the trash can turbulent?
Sufficient water turbulence will allow it to remove any dissolved gases that were under water pipe pressure.
I leave the end of the python in the tank and it stays there until the trash can gets to low to operate then I dump the water in the tank manually so the end of the python would be above the water for all of the time except for however long it takes to fill the length worth of the python tube.I now make sure that the hose of the water pump is out of the water and angled down shooting back into the water. The water leaving the hose gets "air time". This causes a whirlpool effect. I get rid of the dissolved gases and enough dechlorination time with this method. The only downside is that the water temperature will go down a few degrees or more if the room ambient temp is dramatically less than the water mixing temp.
Blanket cap full for 50 gallons since I never took the time to look into the specifics of our water company but I'm going to look into it as soon as possible.So are you doing the math with prime or just doing the blanket bottle cap method?
Yes and I realize that now. You are correct which I'm going to change.Adding prime after is your first problem and second your probably refilling with your house below the water line.
Will do.Look up your water report and figure out what your treating. Then use the old detailed instructions for prime to properly treat.
This is completely a case of operator error and operator stupidity and operator laziness. To be completely honest I believe I stopped looking at that thread after I said it was nice seeing that link you posted again. Why I didn't bother to follow it I do not know.I mentioned this to the OP months ago, so I'm not sure why this is suddenly surprising news?
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...-treat-your-water-during-water-change.707953/
fishhead's issue sounds like a case of operator error. See quote below.
Anyway, I just use my python to take the water out and then once it's filled back up I put my prime in it.
If what he states is true his fish are all being subjected to chlorine/chloramine while the tank is filling, right up until it is full. For that reason I treat (approx. half dose) just before adding tap water, and again (approx. half dose) near the end of the fill. (approx. 3/4 full tank)
As I have pointed out numerous times over the years, unless one knows their disinfectant residual levels as they leave their taps, how much dechlorinator one uses becomes a case of by guess of by golly. Manufacturers generally only recommend a dechlorinator dosage rate based on a specific disinfectant residual level. That "recommended" dosage rate is only a baseline quantity based on a specific residual level. In the case of water conditioners one size does not fit all.
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I guess he forgot?
I've also never known SD's to require an air pump running while doing water changes.
I've read first hand accounts from discus keepers that say their discus act more lively after a big water change. Also big water changes are almost all I do so one would think they would get used to a big water change.The SD could just be stressed due to change in environment. There home is suddenly smaller with less places to hide. I have a well and match temps whenever I do water changes. No chlorine. No water heater either as we have an "on demand" system. Never met a fish that was happy with large water changes.....they get over it.
after but not during i would think. Your fished are stressed after? missed that part I guess. temps match?I've read first hand accounts from discus keepers that say their discus act more lively after a big water change. Also big water changes are almost all I do so one would think they would get used to a big water change.