Output placement to reduce suspended particles in wet-to-dry setup

Wharf

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jan 19, 2018
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Pasadena
First off...I don't want to put circulation pumps or sponge filters in this tank. My quandary is how to point my outputs to get some of the suspended particles toward the overflow and actually out of the display.

I have a 6 foot uniquarium so it has 2 overflows...one on each side respectively. They are around 8 inches or so. I have 2 of the standard marine style dual outputs (I am not sure of the correct name but they are the standard v nozzle type) in the middle of the tank powered by 2 RIO plus 2100's.

I thought by pointing the outputs toward to the surface it would be better for the fish (However, never had a problem with low O2 because of the drip trays). I did this the other day and it appears there are much more suspended particles but the bottom is much more free from poooo. I would be okay with some suspended particles as long as I knew they were headed toward to the filter, but this does not seem to be the case.

Is anyone really familiar with tank currents or LOL Fluid Dynamics that could help me optimize this?

Like I said I had heavier livestock and no surface agitation for months before...the drip trays are adequate for oxygenation it seems. I would just rather do a weekly vacuuming of the bottom and get most of the debris out rather than creating current and suspending the debris IF the current patterns won't allow for mechanical filtration.

Any suggestions are welcome, but take heed that I don't want DIY PVC in the tank or extra equipment for that matter. I want to keep it equipment free as possible. Plus this livestock doesn't really dig super strong current. My guess as I should point them down like in this picture...or even more dramatically instead of toward the surface which pushes down the front and picks up much more debris.

Please chyme in if you have some xp with this issue.
I have been so used to marine systems and/or Fluval FX5 and eheim canisters...this is my first FW overflow wet-to-dry built-in system. It is nice that its all in one and can handle actually a fairly big bio-load.

 

DRUKENMUNKY

Piranha
MFK Member
Dec 25, 2018
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I know it is another device in your tank but you can put a wavemaker to alter the current in your tank. One of the magnetized ones that can mount to a side wall will not stick out as much as a pvc or intake tube from a cannister IMO
 

esoxlucius

Balaclava Bot Butcher
MFK Member
Dec 30, 2015
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Floating debris, mid water debris and gunk on the substrate are issues we all must address if we want crystal clear water, and it can get frustrating. It took me a while to get the right combination of solutions but I got there in the end. My best purchase by far was a variable speed powerhead. I also went bare bottom so there was absolutely no hiding places for gunk. Those two factors, along with a bottom skimming system to my sump (as opposed to surface skimming like yours) have all aided my goal to have crystal clear water.

This has worked beautifully for me but your situation is a bit different. You have surface skimming which is great for floating debris but not for sinking debris. To try and get that sinking waste out of your system you really need to churn your water over and maybe even increase your gph turnover, something which you can't do because your fish prefer moderate flow. And in any case you don't want powerheads or any other device in your display area to churn the water over anyway.

I think you can play about with your nozzle positioning all you like but without a single strategically placed powerhead, or multiple powerheads even, to help direct the flow, you're not going to get right far.

Sorry I couldn't really be more helpful.
 

Seedy J

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Aug 20, 2018
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Colorado, USA
That's a really nice tank! I'm missing something obvious here, where are the overflows?

I know this isn't what you asked for, but I made a cheap polishing filter out of a Maxi-jet 900 powerhead, a drink bottle cut in half, and some filter floss. Looks terrible but seems to filter most of the suspended particles out of my 75g in a few hours, so you don't have to leave it in permanently. I tried various things with a spray bar and a circulation pump and didn't have any success directing the particles into the overflow.

polishing.jpg
 

Wharf

Peacock Bass
MFK Member
Jan 19, 2018
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Pasadena
Yeah really because I have the black fine sand poo and uneaten food stays on the substrate simply have to vacuum more. I just have been ocd'ing with the nozzles to not stir up particles. When I have them at the surface it creates too much of a current and turbulent flow in the tank and starts picking up way too many particles. When the nozzles are pointed slightly downward seems like the lesser of two evils. I just have to stay on top of cleaning the substrate with a python biweekly. My water quality is actually really good I do 2 pwc's a week. I think another thing is I moved my light to the front which highlights the debris much more. Anyways, I will keep playing with it to find a happy medium. I used to have crazy flow vortex/maxspect gyres on Reef and tropheus/mbuna tanks but these Frontosa like a mellow current and really change their behavior with altering the current.
 

uncut30

Black Skirt Tetra
MFK Member
Jul 26, 2015
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Try using air stones, they work great for me , fish moves particles off the bottom ,air stones blows everything to the top of the water,to the overflow to the filter box (blue box).
 
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Backfromthedead

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Jul 12, 2017
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Some good-sized active bottom feeders can help to move waste up off the bottom.

Like U uncut30 said, a powerful air pump and good stones can help move a lot of material up the water column and into the overflow too.
 
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