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I will have the same setup with pads/bio media/heater/pump, it just seems that with baffles you ensure that water is contacting each medium, with open can't it just flow "over the top" of some of the biomedia? Is activated charcoal utilized in sumps at all?

Even though I don't really see a single drain being 100% clogged, especially if I had a screen over the overflow teeth, Murphy is no stranger to me so I like the idea of at least 1 fail safe present. More about the safety than the noise.

My wife said she's not super concerned about the noise, but having the system function properly is key. If i eliminated the tower it would be less work to plumb and not have to buy a glass bit for cutting a bulkhead in the glass tank to connect the two. A single larger sump would probably just...

Can someone running a Herbie tell me the necessity in having the drain outlets below sump water level? If this is 100% necessary then I basically need to scratch the bioball tower idea and then I can just fit a 20 gallon sump instead of the 15. I would probably end up using Seachem matrix then...

It's pretty much making sense to me. The running volume will basically be the height of the baffles (about half the height of the tank), then I'll need to add enough more upon initial start so that when starting the pump there is enough to fill the overflow chamber and start the siphon?

Oh sure I'm finally getting a grasp on everything and now you want to introduce another component! Lol, jk. I'll look into that. I'll just have to decide if drill out the hole so both drains are 1" or skip the cutting and make the 3/4" the siphon. Any comments on the outlets being submerged...

This all makes sense, I'm just assuming that as long as the E drain gravity flow number number is more than the output of the pump, then that's more important than the correlation of flow ratings between the two drains. If the pump is outputing 750 gph, then the E drain must meet or exceed that...

Note that I have 3 holes to work with. Over the back for a return isn't much of an option as this tank will basically be right up against the wall (maybe 1/2" away max). Also the canopy rests directly on the top of the acrylic so Is have to make cut outs etc. The chart does show good info...

So how do I know if the pump exceeds the capacity of the emergency drain? Just raise the water level or close the gate valve on the main drain and see how it reacts? I'll likely be using a DC turn pump that I can throttle down. I was shooting for like 750 gph after head losses. The only option...

I was getting antsy last night and started on the bulkhead install and some plumbing. I used 3/4" for the E Drain 1/2" below the weir. Now questioning this decision. The way I'm kind of looking at it too is that with the main siphon drain closed as much as 50% by the gate valve then in essence...

And does it seem acceptable that my emergency is 1/4" smaller ID than the main?

I guess my confusion lies in the mixed info I've been reading and seeing on a completely dry emergency vs a constant slight trickle to alleviate surface scum within the overflow. Even Herbie himself admitted to setting up many this way on a Reef Central thread I was reading. IF this method was...

I was mainly thinking of that setup because at least with the you tube clips I've watched, the emergency does have a constant flow to it and I didn't know how much overall that accounted for (10%, 25%, 50%). Is there really no need for any kind of valve to close that line off if need be? I...

Ok. Should be easy enough to cut another hole in that top plate and just run a separate 90 to it, or I may replace both with 45s. I'm seeing a LOT of reg ball valves with pretty bad reviews at Home Depot and even on Amazon. Is there a trusted brand that won't leak around the lever or should I...

Makes sense, it would only be about 3" though from the split to where it dumps in top of bioball tower. That's also the widest part of the drain, so theoretically if something were to get lodged it would likely happen at the barb fitting where the diameter reduces slightly. Probably wouldn't...

Should I use some kind of PVC Y fitting or street ell to bring the main drain and emergency drain into 1 before entering the trickle tray or is it the hurting flow/drain speed by bringing a 1" drain and a 3/4" drain into a single 1" line. This would only be for a few inches before the trickle...

Thanks for the insite. I understand the risk of the first elevated wet/dry setup but it the drain from it is currently 3" from the bottom so it should only drain down to that point correct. It's not like the drain is on the bottom. Also I am hoping that with the baffles of the secondary sump...

Do I need a ball valve on the return(s) for any reason? I can't see turning down thr flow, especially if it's a DC pump that can be turned them with a controller but more of a safety measure? What about these barb style ball valves below. Effective or should I just get a barb to slip fitting...

Ok, really great insight and thanks for pics. Did u use that for returns as well or drains only? I think I am looking for about a 750 gph return pump (Jebao seems good bang for buck), AFTER about 6 ft in head pressure. Any recommendations on a single 1" durso (upsized in overflow to 1.25") with...

Seems like the black would be good for prohibiting algae growth I've just seen pics of cracked tubing between the ribs. Do they use standard barb fittings as well? I actually think I could do a filter sock in the top of the trickle chamber and use the draw string or ty wrap to keep it affixed...