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Plus the mainstay of any Skinny disease treatment which is any Levamisole or flubendazole-based med. Example being Kusuri's "DIscus WOrmer"

And for those in the future who might be linked to this thread - FLuke Solve (available in the UK - usually on Ebay) is what you need. Its a praziquantel-based med.

Whatever the light source, it seems to come down to the wavelength and the size/shape of the light source. Personally, I like a "daylight" type bulb frequency, somewhere about 6500K. It's a nice bright white. I don't like a warm white (about 3000K) at all. Personally, I don't like to add blues...

Angels, festive cichlids and Ctenopoma also work well with sevs.

Texas cichlid. Looks like Herichthy carpintis to me.

Lovely fish. I have seen these at 10".

+1 to all that. THere are so many different strains of H.efasciatus and also loads of genetic mixing within the trade, that there is a lot of variety in the colouring of green sevs. He/she looks very happy though. cheeks look male, but bodyshape female to me at the moment. Will show true...

Cool. Firstly well done, these are not the easiest fish to spawn. I was puzzled at first as I thought they were complete mouthbrooders and yet yours had layed eggs on a surface, but it seems yours are delayed mouthbrooders. From memory I think different species within the genus have different...

Can't go wrong with a severum (just one in a 95G), angelfish, bolivian rams, keyholes, festivum. The key thing is to match fish with similar aggression levels. For example, I wouldn't add any acaras to that list as they just tend to be the next level up of aggression. Sevs can be aggressive...

I find Tetra Prima to be the most appetising of pellets for hard-to-tempt cichlids. Usually "gets" them in the end. Certainly use a small pellet so that ther isn't any real "chewing" needed for your sev. IMO, the smaller the pellet the more likely he would be to just swallow them down.

I'd say they are pretty smart for cichlids .... almost as smart as most vieja-type species, but usually not quite as confident. In the right tank with the right tankmates they will be very interactive with people and be up to all sorts of odd swimming tricks and funny behaviours.

Black acara is generally used as the common name for Cichlasoma bimaculatum which, as I stated in my earlier post, he/she definately is not. Once fully healed, if you put up some more pics, we might have a better chance of a decent i.d. This group are usually pretty resilient so his chances...

Mutt midevil for sure. Body shape says male to me, but that's only a guess. Vent to be sure.

Not sure on the species. I have kept and bred C.bimaculatum and C.dimerus. I am sure he is neither of those. THe whole "port" acara group is much more complex than it might initially seem. THe body shape looks more Aequidens diadema type to me, so might not be a port (cichlasoma) at all. It is...

Whatever cichlids you go for, take a serious look at your filtration. Two 2217's for a 180G is nowhere near enough IMO

I like both and have a community tank plus a solo wet pet tank. I think there are keys to success with both. Getting a cichlid community right can be frustrating, and a lot of trial and error, plus a load of experience, a good piece of luck and a spare tank space for emergencies are all...

Personally I wouldn't want to keep an adult synspilum in a 90G. They are obviously large, and much more active than severums. You also state there are other fish in the tank too. SOunds like too much for the tank. I'm sure others might well disagree though.

Very difficult to tell from the photos. If I was forced into a guess, I go for male, due to the body shape.

Yeah, most likely the breeding parrots that caused the injury. Probably chased him, and he's banged into something. A water change was good. Just monitor the situation. If you feel he's being highly stressed, consider moving him or putting in a divider to separate him from the parrots.

100% green terror. Looks like a probably male from the head/body shape too.