100 gal DIY Sump for Wet/dry filter

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

stslimited84

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Apr 1, 2008
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Hey everybody,

Quick question. I'm building a DIY sump out of a 100 gallon rubbermaid stock container. What material would work as the dividers in the sump? Would glass still be a viable option, and if so would silicone work as the sealant?

If not, what would be a good material for using as a divider?

Thanks in advance! :drool:
 
rallysman;1712550; said:
Here is the one I made. I hope it helps.
(this is by far the best working filter that I have)
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114818

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131150

Ah, that makes it much simpler than doing it with glass etc.

Couple questions for ya Rally, if you dont mind.

1) How much did you pay for the rubbermaid 100 gal?

2) How big is the bulkhead on the bottom, and what size piping can it accomadate? (kinda looks like you put in a bigger bulkhead)

3) How many gallons of tank water do you think you could run off of that filter?

4) The float valve and small pump in the sump that you have for extra water removal. How much were they, and what brand are they?

Thankyou very very much! Its great to have something to follow as an example! :drool:

edit, I'm also going to be building the automatic water changing system into the 150 I'll have running off of this sump (which is why I asked about the float valve etc). Any advice/suggestions on that?
 
stslimited84;1712604; said:
Ah, that makes it much simpler than doing it with glass etc.

Couple questions for ya Rally, if you dont mind.

1) How much did you pay for the rubbermaid 100 gal?

2) How big is the bulkhead on the bottom, and what size piping can it accomadate? (kinda looks like you put in a bigger bulkhead)

3) How many gallons of tank water do you think you could run off of that filter?

4) The float valve and small pump in the sump that you have for extra water removal. How much were they, and what brand are they?

Thankyou very very much! Its great to have something to follow as an example! :drool:

1: it was about $60 from Rural King. It's the generic version, but just as strong.

2: it's a 2" "bulkhead" which is actually a shower drain LOL. It has a 2" pipe in it to feed my pump. 7 bucks at lowes. I think the hole is 3" that I had to drill, I can't remember for sure.

3: Right now I'm filtering 425g with ease. In the near future it will be 520. I imagine you could go a bit more than that even.

4: The 2nd pump is some generic thing that was given to me, and the float switch was a sump pump replacement switch from Menards. I can't remember the name, but it was around $30. It was well worth the investment. Thanks to those 2 items I haven't done a water change on the tank since it has been set up and the parameters are the best I can ask for.

Feel free to ask any questions. You won't find a better place than MFK to get the answers!
 
rallysman;1712623; said:
1: it was about $60 from Rural King. It's the generic version, but just as strong.

2: it's a 2" "bulkhead" which is actually a shower drain LOL. It has a 2" pipe in it to feed my pump. 7 bucks at lowes. I think the hole is 3" that I had to drill, I can't remember for sure.

3: Right now I'm filtering 425g with ease. In the near future it will be 520. I imagine you could go a bit more than that even.

4: The 2nd pump is some generic thing that was given to me, and the float switch was a sump pump replacement switch from Menards. I can't remember the name, but it was around $30. It was well worth the investment. Thanks to those 2 items I haven't done a water change on the tank since it has been set up and the parameters are the best I can ask for.

Feel free to ask any questions. You won't find a better place than MFK to get the answers!

Awesome, yeah I've just discovered this forum recently, and its fantastic!

Do you think the light diffuser works just as well as acrylic as the drip plate even tho the holes are much larger?

Also, for the automatic water drip system, I was going to buy an AC controller to stop water flow in the event of a power failure. Any recommendations on what one to get?

I'm also building the DIY Pvc overflows that I saw on this forum, hehe, gonna be one big DIY project, including the stand and probable canopy. :headbang2
 
stslimited84;1712663; said:
Awesome, yeah I've just discovered this forum recently, and its fantastic!

Do you think the light diffuser works just as well as acrylic as the drip plate even tho the holes are much larger?

Also, for the automatic water drip system, I was going to buy an AC controller to stop water flow in the event of a power failure. Any recommendations on what one to get?

I'm also building the DIY Pvc overflows that I saw on this forum, hehe, gonna be one big DIY project, including the stand and probable canopy. :headbang2

I put a solid light diffuser with a bunch of tiny holes drilled in it on top of the egg crate diffuser. The egg crate diffuser won't to much at all for a drip plate. I just used the solid light diffuser because it's a lot cheaper than acrylic.

All that you need to stop the flow of water in the event of a failure is a normally closed 120v solenoid valve. I don't use one (even though I should) because there is a lot of volume left in the sump when the power dies. I'd have to be gone for a day before it would overflow. That said, I would put some sort of protection on it. You could even run the drip line into the sump through a mechanical float valve to shut the flow off if the water gets too high. That's probably the least expensive and most reliable way to do it.

Goodluck with the build, and keep us updated with pictures. We loves us some pictures:D
 
tell ya what rallysman, i know ur thread is from a while back but damn son, that thing is kickass, nothin like some diy that works that well
 
rallysman;1712750; said:
I put a solid light diffuser with a bunch of tiny holes drilled in it on top of the egg crate diffuser. The egg crate diffuser won't to much at all for a drip plate. I just used the solid light diffuser because it's a lot cheaper than acrylic.

All that you need to stop the flow of water in the event of a failure is a normally closed 120v solenoid valve. I don't use one (even though I should) because there is a lot of volume left in the sump when the power dies. I'd have to be gone for a day before it would overflow. That said, I would put some sort of protection on it. You could even run the drip line into the sump through a mechanical float valve to shut the flow off if the water gets too high. That's probably the least expensive and most reliable way to do it.

Goodluck with the build, and keep us updated with pictures. We loves us some pictures:D

rallysman..How's the bio-tower working out?
 
Dr Joe;1713357; said:
rallysman..How's the bio-tower working out?

Took it off. It was too loud. (it worked though!)
 
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