180 gal with DIY 50 gal sump

[patdown]

I'm setting up a 180g tank (6 X 2 X 2) with a 50g wet/dry sump for a Mbuna tank. I've got two DIY overflows with 1.25" inner and 2.5" outer tubes. I will be using a Mag 12 for the return with 1.5" PVC and 4' head. The return water will go thru a 4.5 X 9 inch DIY filter sock (in the blue topped bin), then into the sump thru some floss, over 8g of BIO balls, thru some foam, and out via the MAG 12. I will also be using an FX5 for mechanical filtration. I will be using a Designs By Nature 3D background with the overflows hidden behind it.

Here's a pict of the right side of the sump: Floss is in a container hidden by top of aquarium. Heaters in bottom.



A view from the left end of the sump: Board is temporary support. Twin pipes on left connect to overflows.



Overflows:



The following pict is the background, viewed from the back.



As you can see by the notes, the green areas are holes cut thru the BG to get water from the front to the back of the BG and are covered by plastic mesh. The two green areas on the top will be filled with black foam and will be used for movement of surface water. The overflows are placed in the blue areas and the pink will be the intake to the FX5. The red dot is the FX5 output using the stock output dual nozzles. The orange dots are where I plan to place Loc-line 3/4" diameter 3" flare nozzles. The Loc-line nozzles and the FX5 nozzles will be adjustable in side2side and up/down movement. BTW, the sides of the BG are straight where it meets the glass. The gap will filled in with Great Stuff Pond and Stone foam and DAP black RTV, which is fish safe, will be used as an adhesive.

With 4' of head and 1.5" pipe, I should have about 1050 gph from the MAG 12. The Loc-line specs state 3/4" line will flow 1140 gph. The 1/2" size flows around 475 gph. Will the MAG 12 provide enough flow for three 3" flared nozzles?

As you can see in the overflow pict, egg crate covers the bottom area in front of the BG. I plan on putting three or four piles of rocks (6-8 inches high)in that area.

I also thought about using spray bars for either the FX5 or the MAG 12 or both. I also thought about using UGJ under each pile of rock to keep the water flowing. I could also arrange the rocks so the return water will flow through the rocks to reduce the detrious that might get in there and still give the fish some shelter.

So those are my plans. Only the green areas have been cut in the BG. I can still move the overflows and sump returns and FX5 input/output. Basically, I would like some feedback. Obviously dead spots are of a concern. Adjustability of the nozzles should help with that, I think.

All critiques are welcome. This is my first foray in the world of aquaria, so I am learning everyday. Thanks.

 

[Oughtsix]

It looks like you have a very nice setup!

The only part that caught my eye is what looks like bio balls in media bags. My understanding of what makes bio balls such an excellent media is their ability to break streams of water down to drops of water creating a massive air/water surface area. By putting them in bags I would be concerned that you would be providing a streaming path through the bio balls that would keep the water from breaking up into drops and greatly reduce the massive air/water surface area bio balls are capable of producing.

 

[tomomothy]

Thats my understanding too. I have heard of people putting air bubblers below submerged bio balls to help that but I cant imagine that it gets even to the same order of magnitude of air/water surface ratio that trickle does. I have 5g of bio balls submerged but I also have 2L of ceramic rings and 2L of pond matrix as my main bio media. I just had the bio balls so i threw them in to add to the submerged surface area since I had the room.

To OP, if you find that your bacteria colony is insufficient, you can try adding submergable bio media. You can try adding an air bubbler below the bio balls too i suppose but I dont know how successful that would be.

 

[patdown]

They are loosely packed in three mesh bags. They are not any tighter together than they would be if they were loose. The reason that I used the bags is that it is easier to remove them for cleaning. I can remove a third of them when needed, clean them, then replace them. That way two-thirds remain undisturbed. If you look in the first picture, you will see two white elbows coming from the filter sock bin. The water goes thru filter floss into a plastic tray that I made. I drilled over 600 1/8" holes so that the water would rain down over the bio balls in a uniform manner. I do understand what you are talking about. I just opened the bags so there is a minimal amount of mesh above the bio balls. That should take care of that issue.

Tom, I have an empty area btwn the heaters and two dividers that sandwiches some foam. I already have 2L of Pond Matrix for that very purpose. Should I have more and should it also be in a bag?

 

[tomomothy]

I have my pond matrix in a bag for easy removal. If you read the package it gives you the recommended amount for tank size, which will vary depending on stock. If I recall 2L was ideally enough for my 240g so I think between that and your bio balls you should be just fine. You'll know for sure once your tank is cycled and you have it stocked, but Id say its a safe start and you can always fine tune it as needed.

 

[patdown]

What kind of bag did you use? The bottle says 2L treats a 200 gallons so I guess I have enough. Should I just lay the bag anywhere in that empty area or get if it fairly close to the foam?

 

[tomomothy]

The important thing is that the bag is aquarium safe and very open. You dont want anything leeching into the water, and you want as much water to flow through it as possible. I picked up a mesh bag fromt he lfs for around $3 if I recall correctly. I would put it in an area of good circulation/flow, like near the return line since you want as much water exposure to it as possible.

 

[patdown]

Thanks for the info. You guys have any input on flair nozzle or FX5 nozzle placement?

 

[tomomothy]

how many nozzles are going to empty into your tank? You just want to encourge circulation so the water is moving and you want to minimize dead spots. It seems pretty common to have 2 lines emptying in to the tank on opposite corners flowing towards the center. This creates a couple of circlular eddies and keeps the water moving pretty well IME

 

[patdown]

As you can see in the last picture, I plan on having three fan nozzles, from the sump/MAG 12, and their locations. They will be about 1.5 inches underwater aimed upward in order to break the surface. They will direct their force to the front wall of the tank. I plan on putting the dual nozzle of the FX5, each angled out about 45 degrees towards the corners, about three inches below the water level pointing down towards the center (top to bottom) of the front wall.

I figured the flair nozzles would promote flow from top of the BG to front wall, then down to the bottom, back across the bottom, over/thru the rocks, and then up the BG and enter the various holes in the BG to get to the returns. I'm hoping the flow of the FX5 will angle down the front wall to clear out the front corners and then bring the water back to BG and returns.

That is my thinking. I'm very new at this stuff. I hoping that some of you guys that are experienced will chime in and tell me if this is a workable plan or not. I've only made the return holes in the BG and none of the nozzle holes. I'm waiting on input from you guys.

Thanks.