My one and only complaint about this site is the 15 minute edit window! I REALLY REALLY wish this site would allow editing for at least a day... my thoughts don't usually make it to my fingers in 15 minutes while I am reviewing what I just posted.
1) Sump will have a partition in the center. Dirty tank water will be pumped out of the first compartment. The float valve will be in the second chamber. This will minimize the amount of fresh water I pump down the drain during a water change.
2) The electrical in the sump (pumps and heaters as well as air from the air pump) will come through the glass via the second bulk head shown.
3) Next step will be to measure up and drill holes in the sump for an emergency sump oveflow, waste water pump exhaust through the glass and a hole for the pressure pump to supply the water for watering house plants. I have a few high pressure pumps laying around so it will be good to put one to work.
4) I am using 1 1/2" flexible PVC pipe for the return. It isn't very flexible but allows for enough movement to easily remove union fittings and jostle stuff around a bit. I have had a problem with getting good welds on flexible PVC in the past but some research shows that the gloss coat on the flexible PVC has to be sanded off in order to get a really good weld.
5) I am just dry fitting stuff together now. Neither Lowes or Home Depot carry clear PVC Cleaner/Primer so I just ordered some off Amazon. I don't want the ugly purple cleaner/primer stains on my pretty white pipes. (The purple is added to PVC primer/cleaner so inspectors can see that each joint was properly cleaned/primed before the plumber welded the joint with the glue. It also helps plumbers identify joints they might have missed welding in a large PVC plumbing install.)
1) Sump will have a partition in the center. Dirty tank water will be pumped out of the first compartment. The float valve will be in the second chamber. This will minimize the amount of fresh water I pump down the drain during a water change.
2) The electrical in the sump (pumps and heaters as well as air from the air pump) will come through the glass via the second bulk head shown.
3) Next step will be to measure up and drill holes in the sump for an emergency sump oveflow, waste water pump exhaust through the glass and a hole for the pressure pump to supply the water for watering house plants. I have a few high pressure pumps laying around so it will be good to put one to work.
4) I am using 1 1/2" flexible PVC pipe for the return. It isn't very flexible but allows for enough movement to easily remove union fittings and jostle stuff around a bit. I have had a problem with getting good welds on flexible PVC in the past but some research shows that the gloss coat on the flexible PVC has to be sanded off in order to get a really good weld.
5) I am just dry fitting stuff together now. Neither Lowes or Home Depot carry clear PVC Cleaner/Primer so I just ordered some off Amazon. I don't want the ugly purple cleaner/primer stains on my pretty white pipes. (The purple is added to PVC primer/cleaner so inspectors can see that each joint was properly cleaned/primed before the plumber welded the joint with the glue. It also helps plumbers identify joints they might have missed welding in a large PVC plumbing install.)
