210 Gallon In Wall Build

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nolapete

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Jun 1, 2007
2,726
9
38
New Orleans, LA
My 210 gallon (7'x2'x2') tank has been sitting on cinder blocks in the middle of my fish room since I bought it last year for $100. The custom built stand has been in my garage just as long.

It's time to get it out of the middle of the floor and into the wall where it belongs. The wall it will be in is shared with my fish room and dining room which makes it an excellent place for it. The tank will be centered horizontally in the dining room since that side of the wall of course matters most.

My dining room set features 4 chairs and a bench for seating. Most of the time the bench, which is on the side of the table closest to the aquarium wall, is empty. This will allow for the people sitting in the chairs to view the aquarium unobstructed. I bought the seating with this in mind when I purchased the set recently.

My first two questions:

Do I use the stand inset in the wall or do I construct a new framed 2x4 structure to hold the tank?

That said, my second question. Do I place the tank vertically even from floor to ceiling or higher to take into consideration the times when the bench seat will be occupied?

I believe that the custom-built stand will put the tank at equal vertical spacing, but I'll have to measure it to be sure.

A framed 2x4 support would allow for more access to beneath the tank.

I've attached some pics of the dining room and the fish room walls.

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i think i would set it in the wal and build a new structure to hold it as this would ease maintnence and not mess the wal up as bad
 
This is assuming that the wall is nonbearing:

On the dining room side, measure out where the tank is going to be and draw on the wall the outline of the tank. Decide if you want the tank flush with the dining room wall or have it recessed (flush with the fish room wall) and take that into consideration of the opening that you will cut. Then take a drill with a long bit or bit with an extension and drill through the wall in all four corners (one inch inside where you drew. Do not remove the drywall at this point.

In the fish room, use these holes as a guide to measure out the same tank outline that you drew on the other side. Add 2 inches to the outside of the outline. That is the line that you are going to cut. Set your circular saw to the depth of the drywall and make your cut. Alternately, you can use a hand saw but be careful of any plumbing or wires in the wall. After you have the perimeter cut, go nuts and remove the drywall. There will be some patch work for the drywall, so you may want to re-use the old drywall (but really it is $5-$8 per sheet). Now cut your studs, but do not cut the drywall on the other side yet.

Frame up your viewing window using 2x4's (make a rectangle to slide into the studs). Before sliding the assembled frame in, mark the wall where the center of the studs are. Then place the frame in the wall and screw it to the studs (you may want to predrill the frame). After it is secured in place, then cut the dining room drywall from the fish room side. The frame will give you a perfect cut.

At this point you will finish out the drywall. Cut strips for the fish room side to bring the opening to the dining room dimension, and then screw them in place. Do the same for the opening to cover the remaining exposed wood.

When doing the mud work, add it in thin layers and take your time. Use the fiberglass tape rather than the paper tape unless you have experience with it. When you are satisfied with the mud work, then you will need to block sand it to remove any high spots and to blend the edges. Prime the new mud work prior to painting.
 
Here's the drawn in measurements on the wall. The bottom of the tank is 48" from the ceiling leaving, of course, 24" from the ceiling to the top of the tank. There is just under 26" on either side of the tank to the walls in the dining room. There's more room on the fish room side to the left of the tank. My primary concern is the double French doors that open into the fish room. I have to measure where the door on the 210 side hits when it is opened. I hope it clears, but if it doesn't I'll have to build something to prevent the door from being opened far enough to hit the tank.

The tank is going to be flush-mounted, so I was planning on using some leftover baseboards to frame it like a picture.

Thanks for the in-depth instructions CHOMPERS. Confirms what I had intended to do.

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