240G Plywood Tank Advice Please!

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NewfieArcher

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Oct 2, 2008
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Newfoundland
Hi guys, I'm building a 240g breeding tank for my jaguar cichlids. It will be sectioned into 3 different tanks (120g/70g/50g). This will allow me to raise the fry to larger size.
I need some advice from other tank builders.
Tank Dim. 4' x 4' x 2'tall
I have a 75g Tank for a sump/filter.

1. Is 3/4" plywood thick enough for the described tank?

2. Is 3/8" glass thick enough for the described tank?

3. I planned to have a 6" pvc pipe cut in half as my overflow on one side, with a return on the opposite side.
A) Would this method work/ is there a better method?
B) How to avoid sump overflow with a power outage?
C) How best to use the 75g as a filter?

4. I have a 75g heater and a friend told me that if I place it in the 75g sump it would heat the entire 240g, is this true?

Any remarks or ideas would be appreciated as my own research abilities have been expended.
It's difficult to find 'current' information on plywood tank builds for this purpose.

A few pictures to give you an idea of my prototype. I made this on Sketchup 3d cad.

Tank1.png
Tank2.png
Tank3.png

Tank1.png

Tank2.png

Tank3.png
 
1. I would find a calculator instead of taking someones word on it
2. See 1
3. a, I would use a smaller diameter whole pipe, less sealing and points of failure to worry about, but the general idea sounds okay
b, make sure your overflow outlet is high enough, that once youre tank drains as much as it can into your sump, the sump can hold it all with the pump off. Thats teh only way to be safe incase of pump failure or power outage
c, there are a lot of DIY threads on here on how to build a sump. Pick one that has the media you'll need and customize it for the size of your tank
4. I would get a larger heater. The 75g heater (i assume you mean fora 75g tank, not 75watts) may keep up with your 240g if ambient temperatures are good, but when things are cooler that heater is goin to work its but off and may not even keep up. You can buy a bigger heater and run it or run a few smaller ones, but I would try to avoid underpowering anything whenever possible. The fact that its in a 75g sump doesnt mean it will work since it still has the remaining 240g of water to heat
 
from experience

1. yes
2. 10mm glass is perfect

3.in my tank i have 2 x 40mm holes drilled in the side of the tank. there are bulkheads in these holes. they are a tight squeeze and are silliconed. the exterior pies are 40mm solvent fix plumbing pipe. the interior has 90degree elbows and 3" standpipes. the sump will never overflow as water only goes down when the pump brings it up! the bulkheads are behind a weir.

4. i have 2 x 300 heaters in my sump and it works. my tank is in my lounge which is never cold!

hope that helps. i have a thread in diy tanks. "200g plywood"

oh nad do not be tight with the sillicone! lol
 
Your sump should not ever overflow as long as the level in the sump can handle the amount of water that will continue to flow out into the sump when the power goes out. You can determine this by filling the tank letting the water overflow into the sump till the level in the sump gets an inch from the top. Then turn on the sump pump and the level it goes down to is the level you should always keep in the sump. Mark it so you never fill the sump higher then that level while the pump is operating.
 
Your sump should not ever overflow as long as the level in the sump can handle the amount of water that will continue to flow out into the sump when the power goes out. You can determine this by filling the tank letting the water overflow into the sump till the level in the sump gets an inch from the top. Then turn on the sump pump and the level it goes down to is the level you should always keep in the sump. Mark it so you never fill the sump higher then that level while the pump is operating.

+1 good way to test capacity.

Sent from the mars rover
 
Why not do away with an external sump... make the tank a little bigger and make an internal sump integrated into the tank? This would eliminate any worry of a sump overflow. It would also make the plumbing much easier.

Lengthen the tank to 5 feet wide. Make a 4th compartment 1' x 2' x 2' between the two smaller 2x2x2 compartments. All three stock compartments could directly overflow into this sump compartment. Put a pump or 3 pumps into this 4th sump compartment, add a couple of air wands, then fill it with bio balls. Make a drip tray and put some filter pad on top of it. The water would never leave the tank... greatly reducing any chance of an accident!


It is hard to guess whether the heater will be big enough. It depends on the surrounding air temperature and how well the tank is insulated. Plywood is a better insulator than glass. If you put a lid on the tank it will keep the heat in the tank and you might get away with a smaller heater.
 
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