2x20g rack critique

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Conor1148

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 16, 2010
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US
Hello, I am making a rack to hold my 20l and 20h tanks and I'm looking for some opinions on my design. I feel like I could get away with less, but I would like a more sturdy stand.

My main points I'm concerned with:
-Do i need a brace between the two longest pieces on the base of the stand? like the 2nd level
-could i get away without the center brace on the top shelf?

tank rack 2.pngtank rack 1.png

Construction will be first gluing it all, then either screwing it all together or doweling it. The height of the top floor is 3'11 and the second is 19". Figure it's assumed, but I'm using 2x4s.

thank you

tank rack 1.png

tank rack 2.png
 
I used 4x4's for the vertical part of my stand. To give you a visual:

adjust.png

Looks alot better IMO, and is also not going to be warped from the lumber store like 2x4's will. You'll need someone with a table saw to do the notching though. If you know someone who makes cabinets, give them a case of beer to do all your measuring and cutting, it is worth 2 cases of beer. If you don't know someone, find a local cabinet maker, and offer the case of beer.

So for the 2x4 part, use quality wood. Consider the different cuts (between the 4X4 and 2x4) may be different trees, so different colors. Matter of preference there. Using the 4x4's will also look nice if you plan to take the little bit of extra time to stain & finish the wood (which you should since light natural wood doesn't match black framed fish tanks). You can see in the image that I also added a foot (not as in a foot in length, but as in a "foot" to stand on) at the bottom. Adding feet to the corners helps keep it stable as the wood expands/contracts with the weather (I think) and it will also look better, and you have to make the notch anyway.

As far as the actual build, be sure to Measure the diagonal opposite corners as you build to ensure that everything is square. You don't want to finsh and find that it rocks like an old kitchen table chair. Also, I would say use screws, dry wall screw of an appropriate lench are fine, and be sure to counter sink first so you can fill in the hole with a dowel or putty.

Whatever you do, be patient, it's possible that the stand will be around longer than you, so do it right the first time.

Good luck, I'll snap a picture of my stand when I get home.

adjust.png
 
Here's the stand I built for my 125. It's not stained/finished because it's hidden by drywall, it's built into the wall. So I'm the only one who ever sees the stand.
stand1.png

Good luck

stand1.png
 
Went with a different plan than originally. I cut the wood last night, but the pic isnt uploading right from my phone

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uploadfromtaptalk1361459471552.jpg
 
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The final step will be braces between the feet

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Nice!

You should get some 1/4" plywood, or see if someone has some leftover tongue and grove flooring to make a flat surface to set the tank on. It's will also give you a working surface for water tests, food storage, air pump, etc.

Also, I'm not a fan of wall paneling, but you could incase the stand with something like that along with corner trim. Or even better, drywall that bad boy and paint it the color of the room it's going in.

Either way, looks good.


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I decided to set it up as is, this is really more of a temporary thing till i move and can have the tanks back on their normal stands.

uploadfromtaptalk1361546759888.jpg

Top tank will have some other filter, and will have shrimp and probably something like tetras. Currently empty

On the bottom will have the ac70 from up top and the tank has a shubunkin goldfish, a cray, and snails. Probably going to find a new tank for the snails since im pretty sure one is trying to lay eggs.

Now i just need to find lights and covers for the tanks.

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