600 Gallon Build, suggestions, feedback, ideas, comments.

[ufarooqi]

I am planning to build my big tank, i currently have a 10G, 55G and 145G, the plan is to make a 600Gallon tank and want to plan it properly, hence looking for ideas and suggestions. the dimensions would be 80 inch long, 36 inch high and 48 inch deep (glass 19mm). This will be an upgrade for my Motoro stingrays as they are getting bigger, and will add Asian red Arowana/s and may be some other compatible breed. I usually end up over stocking so it gonna be same with this one

I was planning on having 2 external filters with flow rates between 2000L/h to 2400L/h with a drip system ensuring 50 % water change every week, my tap water does not have chlroamine, only traces of chlorine at times which i will be keeping an eye on and treating when required. The filters i am talking about are Chinese make, available locally hence much cheaper than Ehiems or Fluvals, or should i use one of those brands and which make and model? (I can get it shipped or imported no worries on that front) but then i am stuck with building a spare pool for those as if anything goes wrong having no spare doesn't help, i have a similar problem with my existing Ehiem 2215 and 2217. (although nothing major has gone bad so far and 2215 has been up and running since almost 2 years now).
will that be enough or a sump is mandatory? If yes then what the best sump design and size to build for this tank? if i do this i will give the sump access from behind, will make it mush easier in terms of cleaning.
should i have gravel or bare bottom?
do i need to put in power heads to create water flow for better filtration or the flow from external filters would be enough?
How to calculate heating requirement for this tank?
it will be placed in a way that 18 inches are outside the wall while the remaining tank will be inside and behind the wall, same goes for the stand and canopy, does that pose any issues? do i have to keep an access from the sides or the back? (i can still plan some accessibility from the sides and there is a 5 feet wide corridor behind)

let me know if i am overlooking or missing something and share your experience and suggestions so i can plan and execute it better.

Many thanks

 

[Psylant]

I don't have experience in this... but here are my thoughts:

1.) You will need WAY WAY WAY WAY more filtration than you are currently planning. What you're planning is barely 2 times/hour turnover rate. Rays like pristine water, and if you're going to overstock you're going to need something like 5+ turnovers per hour I would imagine, at the very least. I would go for a large sump with a couple fairly large pumps rated at 2000+gph each (be sure to take into account head height).

2.) I would also consider bumping that 50% WC to 75%+ if your tap water has no chloramine and little chlorine. You have to remember that a 75% WC done via drip, is not as good as a 75% once a week water change, solely in terms of removing nitrates. Some calculus whiz could probably show you the math behind that if you need the proof.

3.) I do not believe you can have gravel with rays, go with either extremely fine round grain sand, or bare bottom.

4.) I would use some power heads regardless of what filtration you use, and aim them along the bottom (especially if bare bottom), to blow the poop off the ground.

5.) To determine the heating required for a tank is a bit difficult. You have to take into account room temperature, and winter temperature in that room (if you have much of a temperature change like we do here). If your room temperature is say.... 71F and you want to get to 75F, you would probably need something like 600W at minimum. The larger the difference between room temperature and tank temperature desired, the more wattage you will need exponentially to keep the temperature higher. Fairly tight fitting lids will help keep temperature in, and acrylic tanks are much better insulators than glass ones. You can try putting insulation around the outside of your tank to help a bit, too.

 

[ufarooqi]

1) I was afraid that i might have to use a sump as well, nothing against sump just that never had an experience with one before so not totally comfortable with it, i anycase i will have to build one for this now.

2) I know what you mean but the 50% water change i am targeting is effective after doing all the math, in terms of volume replaced it will be much more than 50%, i would imaging that's going to be enough.

3&4) would go with fine sand then, is there a possibility that it traps some waste or uneaten food and causes issues?

Thanks for reading and providing your feedback,

 

[808_fairladyz]

If you're going with low mounted powerheads for circulation, than sand probably not a good idea. Fine sand would be worst. Go bare bottom. Sand in my opinion needs to much maintenance esp if you have decor. Fish waste tends to settle under decor where when trapped in sand can produce methane gas pockets that later will release when moved.


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[ufarooqi]

Here is the design for the overflow, drain and drip system i am planning to use, i will only use one hole in the glass for the entirepurpose. Any comments or suggestions are welcome.


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[tomomothy]

I like the idea of a seperate drain line off the tank but I'm doing mine differently. I am tee-ing off just after my pump for my return line to the tank. I decided to make a manifold for my tank so I could empty my tank by pump instead of gravity since in will be faster. The disadvantage for me is then I am draining sump water, so there is more planning involved since I will need to drain water from my tank to my sump in a controlled fashion. You circumvented that problem and your pressure will probably be high enough that the drain rate will be good, just something to consider if you do wc on top of the drip system.

 

[ufarooqi]

Thanks tom, yes i wanted to keep a drain option in case i need an emergency wc, or to drain off the tank completely, if you are not too keen on having a higher flow rate you may consider a drain on the tank and another one on sump and connect them both, i am planning to do this with my build, do you know any formula/tip to calculate the size of the sump in relation to the tank size? I have the design chosen but yet to figure out the size.


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[tomomothy]

Ive heard people go back and forth about it. I cant tell you a good formula, what I can say is it needs to be at least big enough to house your filter media. Figure out what media you'll have and how much you need for your tank, both bio and mechanical, and you might want to leave an option for carbon and whatnot as well. I have a 55g sump for my 240 and its got enough bio media for nearly 700gallons, plus I have a mechanical filter pad and several polishing pads below. I still have room for a small refugium as well. I didnt calculate my sump size, i just used what I had. As long as you can fit your media and plumbing it should be okay. And extra room is not a bad thing. Generic answer but I hope it helped.

 

[ufarooqi]

Thanks Tom.


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[ufarooqi]

I have a few questions where i need experience from people who have done this before

1. Does the sump have a lid or cover on top and if not how is the evaporation handled? Doesnt the sump stop working when the syphon breaks due to evaporation?

2. Since it placed inside the cabinat(usually) how does the humidity effect the stands insides? Does it cause fungus to grow on wooden parts or any smell issues?

3. Is there any sound generated because of the water inlet in the sump ? If yes how can that be removed as mine has to be in my bedroom and this can cause an issue.

4. Also return to the tank will surely cause water flow noise which i need to avoid by putting the return jet below water level, but this would cause a return syphon in case of power outage, any suggestions on breaking syphon on the return path?

Not sure if any of those questions sound stupid as this is my first time i will be doing my own build.
Thanks,


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