When I bought this Aqueon 72 gallon bow front tank I searched the Internet for a good DIY bow front stand but didn't find much that I liked. What I didn't want is an edge only stand like the ones you see in your LFS. You know the ones. They look like they'll collapse at any moment and seem to be pushing the laws of physics. Being an ameteur craftsman with a few good tools I decided to come up with my own design. Its orginality is unknown but it is of my own idea.
MATERIALS USED
2 4'x8' 3/4" MDF sheets
1 gallon RustOleum oil-based gloss black
1 gallon gray/black primer
1 box SPAX #8 2" wood screws
6 brushed nickel flush door hinges
3 brushed nickel handles
3 magnetic door catch
TOP and BOTTOM
The great thing about MDF is that it's a true 3/4", smooth, square, and 4x8 sheets are actually 49"x97". The 72 gallon bow front is 48 1/4" x 18" at its deepest point. I set the tank on the 4x8 sheet with the back of the aquarium flush against the 4' section of the board then proceeded to trace the tank leaving a 1/16-1/8" MDF overlap. I then moved the tank up and traced a second outline of the tank. Those will serve as the top and base of the stand. After cutting them out with a hand jig saw I flipped the tank over and put painters blue masking tape on the trim then centered the cutouts on the bottom of my tank and added some weight to it to keep it from moving. Using my router and a 1" bottom baring flush cut router bit I trimmed off that 1/16-1/8" overlap making the top and bottom exactly match my tank. If you use a router to trim the top, go slow on the corners as there is little surface for the router to rest on. With the top and bottom now trimmed I used some scrap 3/4" MDF to trace my design onto the top and bottom. I did this for a couple reasons. It helped me get exact measurements for the remaining cuts and it helped with the board placement when I screwed it all together.
VERTICAL SUPPORTS
I wanted support not only around the edge but through the middle. I wanted a center cabinet to house my Fluval FX5 canister filter, digital timed electrical, and air pump. What I needed was an 18" center cabinet and the remaining 30" minus the vertical board thickness' to be divided between two side cabinets. Because of the tracing on the top/bottom I was able to determine the depth of the two center vertical braces. At the time I didn't know I was going to share this so I didn't write them down. Sorry! Because of the curved front I need to cut the front edge of the vertical braces with a 17 degree angle so the face pieces would line up. I did this for all four of the vertical braces as shown in my picture. I left 3/4" off the front and back of the two center braces to make room for the front door frame/vertical support and the back wall. The left and right side walls extend all the way to the back corners but I left 3/4" off the front for the door frame/vertical support.
DOOR FRAME / FRONT VERTICAL SUPPORTS
I wanted by vertical supports to extend as far forward and back as possible. What I didn't want was for my doors to overlap the front edge of the top and base. I created three picture frame like designs that would go onto the face of stand and be secured to the top, base, and vertical supports. Those frames would also hold the flush doors. Each frame consisted of four pieces. Two horizontal and two vertical strips with the two horizontal pieces being on the ends of the verticals so weight is always perpendicular and not horizontal to the vertical sides of the frames. The two side frames are mirror images of each other assuming your placement of the vertical braces, measurements, and cut are all accurate. If not, the side frames and/or vertical supports can be trimmed or moved slightly to make the edges line up. Because there is a 17 degree angle cut on the front edge of the vertical braces there must be a parallel 17 degree angle cut on the left and right side of the two side frames. The center frame is the exact width (18") of the center cabinet. The center frame is all 90 degree angles and does not require 17 degree cut sides. Securing the frames to the cabinet has options. The two side frames can be glued, screwed to the vertical supports top and base, and or nailed. I used a combination of things so screws would not be visible. I glued all the edges, wood screws from the top down and base up and I used a nail gun from the front into the vertical supports and from the side into the center frame. If you don't have a nail gun, finishing nails will do nicely. The center frame didn't have vertical supports behind it but that can be added if you like. I glued the edges, screwed it from the top down and base up, and I used my nail gun to "lash" it to the side frames.
THE DOORS
For the doors I simply measured the inside edges of the frames and created simple 45 degree ended pieces. When taking measurements for the doors be sure to leave a minimum of 1/16" to 3/32" on all sides of the doors to allow for possible swelling. Don't worry if you mess up on your measurements and your assembled doors are snug. They can always be run through a table saw to trim off a hair. For the panel insert I set the depth of my table saw to 1/4" and adjusted the fence so the edge of the blade lined up with the inside edge of the door pieces. After all pieces had run through once I moved the fence in 1/8" (blade width) and ran them through again creating a clean 1/4" x 1/4" rabbit. Since I didn't have a routing table or biscuit cutter I only used glue, cabinet clamps, and a carpenters square. Be careful when using glue if you plan on staining MDF or hardwood. Clean up any excess glue immediately that oozes out as some glues are not stainable and will create discoloration if not removed completely. Attaching the panels to the doors was simple. The professional way is to cut a trough for the panel to slide in when assembled. Instead I used some small 3/8" nails and a little wood glue. Attaching the doors to the frame created a small dilema. I didn't think this part through before hand. The local chain hardware stores didn't have hinges for flush doors. I found a specialty store in Overland Park, KS called Locks and Pulls that sells every kind of hinge for flush doors. I went with brushed nickel handles and hinges that wrap around the inside edge of the frame and attach to the back of the doors so you only see the swivel. Sorry I only have pictures of finished doors.
SHELVES
This is up to you. I wanted shelves in my two side cabinets so I simply measured the left and right depth of each side cabinet along with its width and cut two shelves from the remaining 3/4" MDF. To hold the shelves I bought 1/4" black spoon shelf supports and drilled 1/4" holes in the side walls using a Forstner bit. A standard drill bit will do fine. Be careful not to go all the way through. When measure for the placement of the holes be very accurate or your shelves will wobble. One of my holes was off so I just rolled different spoon supports over until it leveled out.
THE BACK PANEL
This was the easiest part. Simply take an exact measurement of the back opening a cut a piece of MDF, but be sure the cut is square. This back piece doesn't just cover the back but also keeps the cabinet from leaning to one side and collapsing. I secured it to the cabinet with glue and wood screws into the center vertical supports, top down, base up, and I used my nail gun from the outside edges into the sides. This way no screws are visible unless you plan on the back being exposed. Mine is against a wall which I assume most others will be to. I used a square to make an even opening layout in the center and used a jig saw to cut it out for plumbing and electrical. When cutting it out try to leave three inches of wood on the top and sides of the opening for support.
FINISH - PAINT, STAIN, AND PUTTY
Use a matching color wood putty for any gaps then sand it smooth. It won't be seen once painted. I'm thankful I own a palm sander as it made sanding much quicker. I started on all the large flat surfaces with a 150 grit to get everything even then went to a 220 grit. After that I went over it by hand to soften, not round the corners and edges. I wrote this up based on my FIRST stand. Yep I messed up and had to start over. A young starving college couple thanked me for their new TV stand. I stared this project using MDF but I found out the hard way that MDF must be treated differently when it's painted. It MUST, I say again M-U-S-T be primed with something like KILZ PRIOR to being painted. If you don't, MDF will act like a sponge and soak up your paint creating an uneven blotchy coat. I tried to sand it off but that only made it worse so it was donated and I started the process over. If you can find a dark primer for black paint great. If not white will do with an extra coat to cover it. You will see in my photos that I started with MDF but the finished product is a oak solid/plywood hybrid painted with RustOleum oil-based gloss black. I wish I had a paint sprayer setup but since I don't I used foam brushes. Something I learned when painting the MDF with a brush is brush lines are visible if you don't watch the thickness and quantity of the paint. If I had it to do over again with MDF I would prime it, 440-1000 grit gently sand the primer then use a gloss spray can. Since second stand ended up being oak and painted black I didn't prime it. I thinned the paint with paint thinner and applied multiple thin coats with a sponge brush so it would get down into the grain without covering it up. I love the results. I tested some MinWax black stain on oak but I could never get it to a true black. It just came out looking like an antique cabinet which was pretty cool looking but not what I wanted. There are numerous ways of staining/painting wood, just do some YouTube and Google searches PRIOR to application or you could end up like I did.
MATERIALS USED
2 4'x8' 3/4" MDF sheets
1 gallon RustOleum oil-based gloss black
1 gallon gray/black primer
1 box SPAX #8 2" wood screws
6 brushed nickel flush door hinges
3 brushed nickel handles
3 magnetic door catch
TOP and BOTTOM
The great thing about MDF is that it's a true 3/4", smooth, square, and 4x8 sheets are actually 49"x97". The 72 gallon bow front is 48 1/4" x 18" at its deepest point. I set the tank on the 4x8 sheet with the back of the aquarium flush against the 4' section of the board then proceeded to trace the tank leaving a 1/16-1/8" MDF overlap. I then moved the tank up and traced a second outline of the tank. Those will serve as the top and base of the stand. After cutting them out with a hand jig saw I flipped the tank over and put painters blue masking tape on the trim then centered the cutouts on the bottom of my tank and added some weight to it to keep it from moving. Using my router and a 1" bottom baring flush cut router bit I trimmed off that 1/16-1/8" overlap making the top and bottom exactly match my tank. If you use a router to trim the top, go slow on the corners as there is little surface for the router to rest on. With the top and bottom now trimmed I used some scrap 3/4" MDF to trace my design onto the top and bottom. I did this for a couple reasons. It helped me get exact measurements for the remaining cuts and it helped with the board placement when I screwed it all together.
VERTICAL SUPPORTS
I wanted support not only around the edge but through the middle. I wanted a center cabinet to house my Fluval FX5 canister filter, digital timed electrical, and air pump. What I needed was an 18" center cabinet and the remaining 30" minus the vertical board thickness' to be divided between two side cabinets. Because of the tracing on the top/bottom I was able to determine the depth of the two center vertical braces. At the time I didn't know I was going to share this so I didn't write them down. Sorry! Because of the curved front I need to cut the front edge of the vertical braces with a 17 degree angle so the face pieces would line up. I did this for all four of the vertical braces as shown in my picture. I left 3/4" off the front and back of the two center braces to make room for the front door frame/vertical support and the back wall. The left and right side walls extend all the way to the back corners but I left 3/4" off the front for the door frame/vertical support.
DOOR FRAME / FRONT VERTICAL SUPPORTS
I wanted by vertical supports to extend as far forward and back as possible. What I didn't want was for my doors to overlap the front edge of the top and base. I created three picture frame like designs that would go onto the face of stand and be secured to the top, base, and vertical supports. Those frames would also hold the flush doors. Each frame consisted of four pieces. Two horizontal and two vertical strips with the two horizontal pieces being on the ends of the verticals so weight is always perpendicular and not horizontal to the vertical sides of the frames. The two side frames are mirror images of each other assuming your placement of the vertical braces, measurements, and cut are all accurate. If not, the side frames and/or vertical supports can be trimmed or moved slightly to make the edges line up. Because there is a 17 degree angle cut on the front edge of the vertical braces there must be a parallel 17 degree angle cut on the left and right side of the two side frames. The center frame is the exact width (18") of the center cabinet. The center frame is all 90 degree angles and does not require 17 degree cut sides. Securing the frames to the cabinet has options. The two side frames can be glued, screwed to the vertical supports top and base, and or nailed. I used a combination of things so screws would not be visible. I glued all the edges, wood screws from the top down and base up and I used a nail gun from the front into the vertical supports and from the side into the center frame. If you don't have a nail gun, finishing nails will do nicely. The center frame didn't have vertical supports behind it but that can be added if you like. I glued the edges, screwed it from the top down and base up, and I used my nail gun to "lash" it to the side frames.
THE DOORS
For the doors I simply measured the inside edges of the frames and created simple 45 degree ended pieces. When taking measurements for the doors be sure to leave a minimum of 1/16" to 3/32" on all sides of the doors to allow for possible swelling. Don't worry if you mess up on your measurements and your assembled doors are snug. They can always be run through a table saw to trim off a hair. For the panel insert I set the depth of my table saw to 1/4" and adjusted the fence so the edge of the blade lined up with the inside edge of the door pieces. After all pieces had run through once I moved the fence in 1/8" (blade width) and ran them through again creating a clean 1/4" x 1/4" rabbit. Since I didn't have a routing table or biscuit cutter I only used glue, cabinet clamps, and a carpenters square. Be careful when using glue if you plan on staining MDF or hardwood. Clean up any excess glue immediately that oozes out as some glues are not stainable and will create discoloration if not removed completely. Attaching the panels to the doors was simple. The professional way is to cut a trough for the panel to slide in when assembled. Instead I used some small 3/8" nails and a little wood glue. Attaching the doors to the frame created a small dilema. I didn't think this part through before hand. The local chain hardware stores didn't have hinges for flush doors. I found a specialty store in Overland Park, KS called Locks and Pulls that sells every kind of hinge for flush doors. I went with brushed nickel handles and hinges that wrap around the inside edge of the frame and attach to the back of the doors so you only see the swivel. Sorry I only have pictures of finished doors.
SHELVES
This is up to you. I wanted shelves in my two side cabinets so I simply measured the left and right depth of each side cabinet along with its width and cut two shelves from the remaining 3/4" MDF. To hold the shelves I bought 1/4" black spoon shelf supports and drilled 1/4" holes in the side walls using a Forstner bit. A standard drill bit will do fine. Be careful not to go all the way through. When measure for the placement of the holes be very accurate or your shelves will wobble. One of my holes was off so I just rolled different spoon supports over until it leveled out.
THE BACK PANEL
This was the easiest part. Simply take an exact measurement of the back opening a cut a piece of MDF, but be sure the cut is square. This back piece doesn't just cover the back but also keeps the cabinet from leaning to one side and collapsing. I secured it to the cabinet with glue and wood screws into the center vertical supports, top down, base up, and I used my nail gun from the outside edges into the sides. This way no screws are visible unless you plan on the back being exposed. Mine is against a wall which I assume most others will be to. I used a square to make an even opening layout in the center and used a jig saw to cut it out for plumbing and electrical. When cutting it out try to leave three inches of wood on the top and sides of the opening for support.
FINISH - PAINT, STAIN, AND PUTTY
Use a matching color wood putty for any gaps then sand it smooth. It won't be seen once painted. I'm thankful I own a palm sander as it made sanding much quicker. I started on all the large flat surfaces with a 150 grit to get everything even then went to a 220 grit. After that I went over it by hand to soften, not round the corners and edges. I wrote this up based on my FIRST stand. Yep I messed up and had to start over. A young starving college couple thanked me for their new TV stand. I stared this project using MDF but I found out the hard way that MDF must be treated differently when it's painted. It MUST, I say again M-U-S-T be primed with something like KILZ PRIOR to being painted. If you don't, MDF will act like a sponge and soak up your paint creating an uneven blotchy coat. I tried to sand it off but that only made it worse so it was donated and I started the process over. If you can find a dark primer for black paint great. If not white will do with an extra coat to cover it. You will see in my photos that I started with MDF but the finished product is a oak solid/plywood hybrid painted with RustOleum oil-based gloss black. I wish I had a paint sprayer setup but since I don't I used foam brushes. Something I learned when painting the MDF with a brush is brush lines are visible if you don't watch the thickness and quantity of the paint. If I had it to do over again with MDF I would prime it, 440-1000 grit gently sand the primer then use a gloss spray can. Since second stand ended up being oak and painted black I didn't prime it. I thinned the paint with paint thinner and applied multiple thin coats with a sponge brush so it would get down into the grain without covering it up. I love the results. I tested some MinWax black stain on oak but I could never get it to a true black. It just came out looking like an antique cabinet which was pretty cool looking but not what I wanted. There are numerous ways of staining/painting wood, just do some YouTube and Google searches PRIOR to application or you could end up like I did.
