8'x8'x4' ply frame.will this work?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

knox_rbp

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 29, 2009
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Knoxville TN
ok so here's a sloppy diagram I did with paint since my scanner wouldn't let me load my blueprints to my pc. It's 4' high and 8'x8' The top drawing is the front where the glass would be and the bottom is how I plan to do the sides and back. Here are some details, it's all 2x4s on edge to decrease deflection. If you look in the top picture you can see where the corners will be laced together to help the walls from separating. The glass I have is 1" plate and dimensions are approx 7'x 3'6" the viewing are is approx. 2'6" high x 6' long with that brace in the center. That should get enough overlap onto the plywood to get a good seal and ease the stress. Inside will be done with ply, which is what the glass will press against, but I haven't decided on a sealant yet. Now a few questions. Will that many beams stop deflection or should I add some crossties across the top? Will that give the glass enough support? Can I use cinderblocks for a base, I have about 160 that I'm not using for anything else, or should I just build a base? Any help would be great. I have done a good bit of building but this will be my first monster tank. and yes I know the diagram sucks.lol

pond diagram.jpg
 
17 views and not a single comment? lol
 
Wow, that thing looks pretty dang overbuilt to me. You shouldn't need more than 2" of overlap from the glass onto the wood (around all edges). I'd say that with laying the 2x4's flat and tying them together like that, you shouldn't need more than 3-4 of them as top or bottom plates, as well as in the corners. Then just use single vertical 2x4's spaced every 12-16" on center. And I think you can get away without the center glass brace, unless you really want it there for some reason.

Just make sure you use good 3/4" hardwood plywood, not osb or particle board.
 
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209523&highlight=vldesign

If you use this design you will be successful. I saw this tank in person and it's stunning! Check out how he did the supports across the top, very simple design. He's never had a leak either! He's didn't dork around trying to find a cheaper easier way to seal a tank. He went with a proven method, filled the tank once and added fish.
I think your design is over built but that's good! Build the tank strong, seal it once, fill it once. Never worry again!

Good luck and take lots of pictures!
 
-I will definitely not use osb or a cheap substitute for good ole ply.

-I really don't want the center brace on the glass if it isn't necessary.

-I will more than likely keep the extra top and bottom for 3 reasons, extra support for the glass, Over built is good since I never plan on selling my house, and if I take any out I will have to have taller vertical boards. Right now I can get 3 verticals from a 2x4x8, if I go any taller I would have to either buy more or go with a longer board to cut from. So it isn't gonna save me money either way.

-I've looked through that thread more times than I can recall. I absolutely love that tank. I'll have to read again to see what he sealed with though.

-I will be sure to do lots of pictures and I'm actually going to have it full before I start the thread. Then I'll just add the pictures daily as a teaser. lol. It's not an immediate thing because I still have to rework all the wiring for downstairs and throw up some drop ceiling so insulation doesn't make it's way into the tanks. I say tanks because this will only be the first of as many as I can fit,or the foundation can hold. lol.

There I think I touched on all the comments. Thanks you guys for you answers.
 
That's cool, overbuilding is definitely preferred to underbuilding, and VLDesign's was one of the better build done on MFK. I believe he used Pond Armor for his build.
 
You should not need the center brace. The glass will either take the pressure or it will break. Putting a center brace in has nothing to do with it since pressure is a result of depth and not length.

I would check a thickness calculator but 1" glass can handle a decent amount of pressure.
 
Pond armor seams to be the thing to go with.
For some reason I was thinking that if you decrease the span you decrease the pressure. I guess I was thinking in terms of support and not psi and different depths.
 
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