So comparing that picture of the seal to what it looks like now ive noticed it has gotten slightly worse... Im afraid if i try to remove the glass ill damage it. So im thinking about using some sort of mechanical method to at least hold it in place. Im open to suggestions..one idea i have is to find some strong waterproof material to build a frame the outside dimension on the glass. Then coat with silicone and push it on to the glass. Once that cures i secure the frame to the existing tank wall with fiberglass. It would be a major set back but i cannot risk this glass falling and breaking inside my tank.
900 gallon plywood shark tank build
- Thread starter dingodan
- Start date
Well i took a hiatus from posting to deal with some issues. I ended up adding an frp frame around the glass window and siliconing that in with dow 795. Then my first test found all the threads on my bulkheads leaked so i replaced all the teflon tape on my pvc male adapters with silicone (im a plumber and would never do this at work...but it worked!). Then my overflow boxes leaked and it took me weeks to figure out where exactly the leak was coming from. Now its finally on test with no obvious leaks (will remain on test for a week to be sure). I also did my aquascape while i was waiting for silicone to cure.
Looks really good. Where did you get this frp frame? Do you have a link? Looking to build a frame around the acrylic panel of plywood aquarium and planned to use plywood but your idea of a frp flame has me intrigued.
Sorry this is a bit too late to assist you but it may help others.
These air gaps occur when you push the glass too hard against the wall. When you release the pressure the glass pulls back creating air pockets. It's an easy mistake for the inexperienced. What would have been better is to use several 2mm thick spacers so your glass can't get too close. Thicker silicon also seals better than thin when the tank is full as water pressure pushes the glass agsinst the wall similar to a gasket.
With Dow 795 being neutral cure, you can apply more silicon to the curing silicon the next day (even though the surface has skinned) and still get good adherance unlike acetic cure. So if you use long protruding shims like cable tie for example, you can pull them out 24 hours later and fill the gaps with more 795 to make it neater. Or use small size shims like silicon buttons and leave them calked in forever.
These air gaps occur when you push the glass too hard against the wall. When you release the pressure the glass pulls back creating air pockets. It's an easy mistake for the inexperienced. What would have been better is to use several 2mm thick spacers so your glass can't get too close. Thicker silicon also seals better than thin when the tank is full as water pressure pushes the glass agsinst the wall similar to a gasket.
With Dow 795 being neutral cure, you can apply more silicon to the curing silicon the next day (even though the surface has skinned) and still get good adherance unlike acetic cure. So if you use long protruding shims like cable tie for example, you can pull them out 24 hours later and fill the gaps with more 795 to make it neater. Or use small size shims like silicon buttons and leave them calked in forever.
man that is looking real good man, love the blue on the back wall gives the illusion of depth just like the ocean. the scape is fantastic too.
glad you got all the leaks taking care of.
hope the leak test goes great for you! best of luck bud!
I actually did use spacers between the glass and wall but what you are saying makes sense and i may have pulled my bracing off too soon. I also read that 5200 has "inconsistent adhesion" to glass which is exactly what i experienced.
