If you're reading this article, we'll assume you are serious about aquatic photography, have invested in proper photography gear AND have already read this thread : http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...bers-Basic-photo-sessions-from-Prep-to-finish
In this article, we'll cover everything you need to know about getting those photographs with well-lit fishes and dark backgrounds.
First we'll go over the gear you need for your shoot.
1- The camera. you'll need at least an entry level DSLR camera. Doesn't have to be top of the range stuff, some of my best work were done with a Canon 450D + a 75-300mm lens.
2- The flashes. You'll need external flash units (I usually use a minimum of 2 flashes for any shoot). Original flashes can get very pricey, and at the distances we're going to be using them, not necessary. I use low range Nissin flashes(Nissin 466) which are cheap & good.
3- Cable sync. You need something to fire the flashes since they won't be mounted to your camera. I use a Zebra Hotshoe Adapter.
Setting up the gear.
Using these flashes & settings, you don't need to even switch the tank lights off. The shot below was taken in Stones Aquarium while the shop was fully operational - meaning all shop & tank lights were on.
The flashes are placed over the tank in this way
The flashes are connected to the camera using the zebra hotshoe adapter mentioned above. The hotshoe links from the camera to one flash which is in the "Master" mode. The other flash will be set to "Slave" mode and will automatically fire off when it "sees" the first flash go off.
Play around with the flash power settings until you get one that you're happy with.
Camera Settings
Shutter Speed - Go for something around 1/200 to 1/250. This helps to freeze the action better, giving you with a sharp image over a blurry one.
Aperture - I usually shoot with f11 - f17. This helps the whole of my subject to be in focus (small f numbers are what give you the bokeh effect) and gets rid of most of the floating particles to help the photograph look "cleaner".
ISO - Go with an ISO value of under 250. The lower the better. ISO determines the amount of detail that is captured in your photograph. here are some examples in 100% crop ups.
High ISO (i cant remember the exact value, was probably around ISO 800 - taken without flash.
Low ISO, around ISO 100 - taken with over head flash.
In this article, we'll cover everything you need to know about getting those photographs with well-lit fishes and dark backgrounds.
First we'll go over the gear you need for your shoot.
1- The camera. you'll need at least an entry level DSLR camera. Doesn't have to be top of the range stuff, some of my best work were done with a Canon 450D + a 75-300mm lens.
2- The flashes. You'll need external flash units (I usually use a minimum of 2 flashes for any shoot). Original flashes can get very pricey, and at the distances we're going to be using them, not necessary. I use low range Nissin flashes(Nissin 466) which are cheap & good.
3- Cable sync. You need something to fire the flashes since they won't be mounted to your camera. I use a Zebra Hotshoe Adapter.
Setting up the gear.
Using these flashes & settings, you don't need to even switch the tank lights off. The shot below was taken in Stones Aquarium while the shop was fully operational - meaning all shop & tank lights were on.
The flashes are placed over the tank in this way
The flashes are connected to the camera using the zebra hotshoe adapter mentioned above. The hotshoe links from the camera to one flash which is in the "Master" mode. The other flash will be set to "Slave" mode and will automatically fire off when it "sees" the first flash go off.
Play around with the flash power settings until you get one that you're happy with.
Camera Settings
Shutter Speed - Go for something around 1/200 to 1/250. This helps to freeze the action better, giving you with a sharp image over a blurry one.
Aperture - I usually shoot with f11 - f17. This helps the whole of my subject to be in focus (small f numbers are what give you the bokeh effect) and gets rid of most of the floating particles to help the photograph look "cleaner".
ISO - Go with an ISO value of under 250. The lower the better. ISO determines the amount of detail that is captured in your photograph. here are some examples in 100% crop ups.
High ISO (i cant remember the exact value, was probably around ISO 800 - taken without flash.
Low ISO, around ISO 100 - taken with over head flash.
