Advice sought for new 150

[emoutz]

So I just got a used 150 g RR aquarium. It came with a nice sized sump, return pump, plumbing, and T5 lighting appropriate for a reef. I have a Co2 tank/regulator from my saltwater setup ....

I'm thinking of switching from SW to freshwater (probably a planted amazon basin type tank). SW just takes too much maintenance and the water changes, RO/DI water use, etc. are too much for me. I used to keep freshwater, including planted tanks, and was pretty successful with little more than a flourescent bulb, UG filter, etc.

I'm looking for some best practices ideas for this tank. Seems like I have great EQ and should be able to put together a nice looking tank without too much trouble. However, basic questions, like "should I have a UG filter or use my sump as a wet/dry" plague me. Here are a list of them:

1. Should I use the overflows/return/sump or seal that and just use a UG. UGs are simple and effective, the sump adds a layer of complexity etc. to the tank and I'm not sure it will have a real benefit. Or should I use a different type of filter (in addition to or an alternative to the UG filter). Open to ideas.

2. The T5s will probably be more than enough light for plants (they were used to grow SPS...). Should I use the full 8 bulb setup or take a couple ballasts out?

3. What type of substrate do you recommend?

4. Should I use my CO2 tank in the setup? Is CO2 really necessary? I always did fine without it ....

5. Anything else I should be thinking about?

 

[dap1979]

Hey there, I have quite a bit of planted tank experiance, I'll give you my two cents. If I were you, I would do away with the sump all togeather as water turbulence will cause co2 to dissipate. Also, an ugf isn't such a good idea either. Planted tanks would just clog it up and render it useless. Your best bet is to get a good canister filter, a fluval fx5 or an eheim 2080 pro III with a 150 gallon tank. Running co2 with your t5's will give you the best results as even most "low light" plants will thrive under brighter lighting. You can use lower light areas to plant crypts (my favorites) as they should adapt better. With the t5s, you need to change the bulbs all to 6700 kelvin, blue light is not so good, as plants thrive better under the red end of the spectrum, Takashi amano's lights are usually around 8000 Kelvin, more towards the green end, but I have never seen an 8000k t5 bulb. With CO2 and 8 t5's you should be good to grow anything. For substrate, I would go with eco complete, or ada aqua-soil Takashi Amano's own brand, they also sell decorative sands. Or, you could go the cheap route, and one of my favorites; bottom is a very thin layer of laterite, next a thin layer of dolomite if your tap is very soft (not many plants thrive in acidic water.. research here) then a 2 inch layer of pond lily soil or top soil ( make sure no chemicals have been added) then a layer of fine smooth silica gravel or sand (pool filter) with no angular edges. You could also add a substrate heating element. You'll need to periodically enrich the substrate, and water column. Dupla makes very very good products for this.
When it comes to aquascaping, start with your hardscape. Design your layout and pre-tie any moss or ferns to your driftwood before you install it. Look up some of amano's techniques check out some of aquatic gardener's association annual contest entries (online). You'll find great advise on symetry vs. asymetry etc. Also, I tend to favor tanks with very few different plant species but in planted in larger thickets. This will give you a much more natural look. Do all your planting with long tweezers ( this will save your patience, trust me). You need to plant very densly initially, this will help ward off excess nutrients (the plants will out compete algae).
In the first few days running, you need to monitor the ph as the co2 can bring it down dangerously low if you are not careful, especially at night when the plants are nonphotosynthic. Wait a week or 2 then add some ottocinclus, siamese algae eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis), and/or some japonica shrimp. Then add your fish slowly. Planted aquaria are just as complex as a reef system. Keep that in mind.
Maybe this will help out some,
A.