Over the last several years I have had ca number of Eheim canister filters. And they have all leaked at some point. I am tired of mopping up water and I was hoping there is an alternative to the canister filter that would do well on a well stocked 100 gallon cichlid tank. When they work the tank looks beautiful. But I never know when they will start leaking and once they do it is very difficult to diagnose the problem. Any suggestions?
Alternative to Canister filter
- Thread starter eddieg24
- Start date
A sump would work just as well. Just add extra mechanical filtration. Eheim's are leaking though? I thought they were supposed to be very good filters. I have a use marineland c220 that i've been using for over a year and no leaks yet.
i chose fluval canisters over eheim. i've had two instances in 6 years (how long i've been using fluval filters) where water ended up on the outside of my tank in great quantities.. the first was because of a frame around the top of the aquarium made it difficult to get the return line to stay in the tank.. the second was a hose that i apparently didn't put together well enough popped apart.
i've NEVER had a fluval canister leak. not the 405's and not my FX5's. i did learn that the FX5 hoses aren't supposed to loop down from the canister before going up to the tank. so i remedied that with some permanent pvc pipe plumbing.
i've NEVER had a fluval canister leak. not the 405's and not my FX5's. i did learn that the FX5 hoses aren't supposed to loop down from the canister before going up to the tank. so i remedied that with some permanent pvc pipe plumbing.
I really know very little about the set up of a sump. I guess I would like to purchase a kit so I won't have to build my own system. On Amazon I think I saw such a system a proclear aquatics 150. It indicated that everything was included except the pump. Does anyone know anything about this system? And if so how difficult would it be to set up. And what kind of pump would you suggest for my set up?
Hate to say so, but given the loyal following Eheim has and my own experience…
I`m thinking "User Error" is the cause of your leakage.
Thinking that way makes me a bit reluctant to start shouting the benefits of a sump based filter system.
Me, I would figure out what I`m doing to cause my filters to leak before trying to go for something different.
The bulk of can leakage is caused by damaged “O” rings.
After the rings, the causes mostly involve careless handling of one sort or another.
Good luck.
I`m thinking "User Error" is the cause of your leakage.
Thinking that way makes me a bit reluctant to start shouting the benefits of a sump based filter system.
Me, I would figure out what I`m doing to cause my filters to leak before trying to go for something different.
The bulk of can leakage is caused by damaged “O” rings.
After the rings, the causes mostly involve careless handling of one sort or another.
Good luck.
In looking at the Proclear website their "Pro" 150 is a saltwater setup with a protein skimmer. If you are going to use it on a fresh water tank the protein skimmer will go to waste as freshwater isn't dense enough to foam like salt water. For fresh water you want one of their non-"Pro" versions without the protein skimmer. Their 175 looks like it should do the job nicely and should probably be less expensive.
Here is another good looking wet/dry: http://www.amazon.com/Eshopps-WD-125CS-Wet-Dry-Filter/dp/B002440G8G/ref=sr_1_11?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1314208670&sr=1-11
A wet dry filter should be a very simple design. Some sort of prefilter like a filter pad or filter socks, a large area for bio balls then a compartment to put the return pump. Most people on this site go way overboard in designing their sumps. The compartment for the pump is really just a nice extra so you can get to the pump easily.
You can take an old aquarium. Put a return pump, heater, and an air wand in the bottom. Fill it with bio balls. Put a drip plate on top filter plate. Then put a filter pad in the drip plate. This will be just as efficient as any $200+ wet dry.
Here is another good looking wet/dry: http://www.amazon.com/Eshopps-WD-125CS-Wet-Dry-Filter/dp/B002440G8G/ref=sr_1_11?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1314208670&sr=1-11
A wet dry filter should be a very simple design. Some sort of prefilter like a filter pad or filter socks, a large area for bio balls then a compartment to put the return pump. Most people on this site go way overboard in designing their sumps. The compartment for the pump is really just a nice extra so you can get to the pump easily.
You can take an old aquarium. Put a return pump, heater, and an air wand in the bottom. Fill it with bio balls. Put a drip plate on top filter plate. Then put a filter pad in the drip plate. This will be just as efficient as any $200+ wet dry.
+1.. i love FX5's.. easy to use, easy to clean and they do a great job and turn over a LOT of water. the first FX5 that i bought 5 years ago, i think.. lost it's motor to a power outage last week, a new motor with the impeller, o-rings and everything is $90 online. it should be here any day..
fx5 is over kill for a 100g... not to mention pricey buying it brand new...
i'd go with a cheap sump w/d setup with a cheap used canister like a
magnum 350 pro for mech filtration. buying both of these used should
run you less then 100$ or around if buying the tad upper scale items.
heck i've bought 2 magnum350 pros used from 2 different people for
40$ and 35$ and im still using them till this day! oh and one of the guy
gave me a extra impeller & bio/filter media for it too! lol
i'd go with a cheap sump w/d setup with a cheap used canister like a
magnum 350 pro for mech filtration. buying both of these used should
run you less then 100$ or around if buying the tad upper scale items.
heck i've bought 2 magnum350 pros used from 2 different people for
40$ and 35$ and im still using them till this day! oh and one of the guy
gave me a extra impeller & bio/filter media for it too! lol