Ammonia Question.

[hmoobvwj]

Is it possible to have ammonia without any nitrite? I just did a testing after a water change to my 180g. Roughly around 15 gallons. Here is what the parameters said:
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 50 ppm
PH: 6.0-6.4
Ammonia: 3.0
Temperature is around 82-84 Degrees Feherenheit

The fish are all behaving the same. No life threatening signs what so ever. Could this just been a mistake on the test strip?

Thanks

 

[BaTsBR]

I'm having the same "problem" No nitrates, but amnonia levels are around 0,002 ppm
temp around 90 degrees, pH around 6.6 (discus tank).
Already done 2 water changes and clean up the canister.
Fishes are normal, no signs of deseases.

 

[cichlid savage]

I have read that test strips are unreliable. Most keepers here use a liquid test kit. You might want to try getting one and compare the results.

 

[hmoobvwj]

Alright thanks guys. I mean the fish don't seem to be behaving weird so might have been the strip itself then.

 

[TwistedPenguin]

You didn't make a dent in anything with a 15 gallon water change on a 180 g tank. That's only about an 8% water change. Not sure what's going on but I'd definitely be using a liquid test tube kit and doing a heck of a lot bigger water changes.

 

[hmoobvwj]

Oh if you guys are wondering why I do only around 15 Gallons of water, its because I do that almost everyday. I will definately buy a liquid tester.
Thanks all.

 

[TwistedPenguin]

Oh thank goodness. I was hoping that wasn't a week's worth
The only thing that jumps right out at me is maybe your beneficial bacteria got knocked out a bit. Ammonia spikes can happen for several reasons...a fish dying, uneaten food built up on a pile or pocket somewhere. I think your nitrates a bit too high, too. Ideally it's best to do a 50% water change when they reach 20 ppm. (I said 'ideally'). I, personally, don't even like them that high though.

 

[hmoobvwj]

My water use to be only around 10 ppm for Nitrate and 0 ppm for both Nitrite and Ammonia, But I don't know why I cant get Nitrate down anymore even when I do 50%+ water change. I have 3 hang on filters rated at 300+ GPH each, do I need to clean out the media in there at a certain point or what do I do? Or is it because of the filters?
Thanks

 

[bbrtmad]

API master test kit liquid only alot can give false readings so i have found.

 

[TwistedPenguin]

My water use to be only around 10 ppm for Nitrate and 0 ppm for both Nitrite and Ammonia, But I don't know why I cant get Nitrate down anymore even when I do 50%+ water change. I have 3 hang on filters rated at 300+ GPH each, do I need to clean out the media in there at a certain point or what do I do? Or is it because of the filters?
Thanks

Oh yea-you most definitely have to clean your media/filters out. If you've got chlorine in your tap water then rinse the media & sponges in a bucket of tank water. Rinse well. That's possibly the reason for your high nitrates lately even after a big WC. The media gets slimely gunk built up on it and doesn't work as well.
You've got three 300 gph HOB's on a 180 gal tank with a 17" Jardini, a foot-long catfish and some Clown Loaches. That's only 5 times the turnover even if the filters were working at 100% (which none do). I think you're very underfiltered. (That'll cause an arguement with the others who disagree with me).

API master test kit liquid only alot can give false readings so i have found.

I've used the API liquid tests for years and never found to be true. If you follow directions and don't get an expired kit you should be fine.