Autodrip Overflow - Please Help

nzafi

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2008
2,177
1,236
179
USA
I need to order parts in order to drill my 180g tank and I have no idea what to order. I plan on doing the drilling during my move and will probably cap the hole, and then actually do the autodrip within a couple weeks. My goal is to do a 1/2in overflow as I think that will be plenty for a drip system. Still undecided if I should do two holes (1 for backup) or just one. Does this list of parts make sense.

1) 30mm glass drill bit (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/diamond-coated-glass-drill-bits.html)
2) 1/2in bulkhead thread x thread (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulkhead-abs-thread-x-thread.html) - this matched to the 30mm drill bit by BRS
3) Low profile strainer threaded (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/low-profile-bulkhead-overflow-strainers.html)

Pending Parts & Questions
1) Do I go with schedule 40 or schedule 80?
2) Should I be doing a thread x thread bulkhead? I don't see an elbow w/thread. What elbow should I get and does this impact the bulkhead I have chosen
3) Should I do a T w/cap instead of elbow to reduce noise or is that not even a concern?
3) Considering this is just a drip, should I get a ball valve or gate valve?
4) Am I missing other parts aside from pvc to run from the top of the tank to my drain?

I wanted to do all threads so I could easily disassemble, but maybe that is a bad idea. I would like to order the parts soon so any feedback is great appreciated. I am a dunce when it comes to this stuff so if you can provide links or pics of parts that would be really helpful.

Thank you!!!
 

nzafi

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2008
2,177
1,236
179
USA
JK47 JK47 and jvc66 jvc66 gents I love your threads and thought you might be able to help me out please :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: JK47 and jvc66

jvc66

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jul 10, 2015
654
218
61
NJ
JK47 JK47 and jvc66 jvc66 gents I love your threads and thought you might be able to help me out please :)
JK47 JK47 will be a hell of a lot more help then I am since I am still learning at this point. I just rigged up a simple auto top off out of a jerry can that I am still messing with so I have no experience with an auto drip but will be closely monitoring this so I can do one in the future!

Schedule 40 should be fine no need to go up to schedule 80 on plumbing. When you say elbow with the thread are you talking about the elbows attached to the bulkhead with the hose barb? If so I have those on my returns and love them. Also threaded vs slip is your preference. I personally did slip on mine

check out jehmco for bulkheads. they have a ton of different things on their including ones with strainers already attached and elbows with barbs. http://www.jehmco.com/html/bulkhead_fittings.html
 

millerkid519

Aimara
MFK Member
Feb 16, 2015
2,251
931
135
stratford ontario canada
1- sch 40 fitting
2- that is up to you fittings are not critical
3- I wouldn't be concerned, when mine started making noise I took a elbow drilled it on the 90 degree edge and slapped it on to muffle the sound
4- only thing I can think of, what are you using to pre filter your tour drip water
 

nzafi

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2008
2,177
1,236
179
USA
millerkid519 millerkid519 thank you. I think I have to do slip on the bulkhead external to the tank if I want to connect pvc to it. For my drip, I am research various filter systems that I will just setup and then follow the instructions from the DIY Joey youtube vid on a drip system. Seems easy enough.
 
  • Like
Reactions: millerkid519

Bigfishnut

Silver Tier VIP
MFK Member
Aug 28, 2016
1,638
1,716
904
48
Warren PA
One thing you may want to think about is getting a slip×thread bulkhead. Slip on the inside of the tank, thread on the outside. You can buy an adapter that threads into it for your pvc to slip into. This way it can be disassembled for cleaning. Over time it WILL fill up with gunk. Use a union or two also. You'll be able to easily take it apart to service it. Thats how I build my drains.
 

millerkid519

Aimara
MFK Member
Feb 16, 2015
2,251
931
135
stratford ontario canada
millerkid519 millerkid519 thank you. I think I have to do slip on the bulkhead external to the tank if I want to connect pvc to it. For my drip, I am research various filter systems that I will just setup and then follow the instructions from the DIY Joey youtube vid on a drip system. Seems easy enough.
I did mine out of cpvc with mastercraft filters from Canadian tire (live in canada) and just used clear tubing to run into an old sink in the basement. My only suggestion is to grab a 20-25 psi regulator for the drip system to help regulate flow
 

JK47

Retired MFK Admin
MFK Member
Aug 4, 2008
11,112
3,478
2,555
Washington
JK47 JK47 and jvc66 jvc66 gents I love your threads and thought you might be able to help me out please :)
My feedback mirrors millerkid519 millerkid519 . Schedule 40 will work fine, your choice in slip or thread is up to you. Some don't like thread simply because of the potential for pinhole leaks. That usually comes from not using the proper amount of plumbers tape. I prefer thread on my drip exits so I can pull it apart for whatever reason.

The most important part I am seeing that isn't covered is where you place the hold for the drip exit. You have to set it up, mark where the water lines are with power on and power off. You want the exit hole for the bulkhead to be placed in a way that it does:
  1. allows the water level to leave via gravity.
  2. when the power goes out, water above the hole will exit out of the sump. When the power comes back on that water will then be drained from the sump. Make sure you have the sump volume and remaining water volume to not run the pump dry. This takes more planning than filtering the water.
  3. If the design won't allow for a hole to be placed in an area that accomplishes both you can always run a 1/4" line directly to a float switch as an emergency ATO.
If you are going with a 1/2" bulkhead, consider using quick disconnect fittings. They are available at Home Depot and snap together and apart without tools. I use this on all my drips exits as well and love them. This may be how you accomplish your elbow with a male thread end. I have this exact thing on a tank and the house and can send you a pic tonight.
 

nzafi

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Mar 14, 2008
2,177
1,236
179
USA
JK47 JK47 thank you for the input and would love to see how you have done it. I am running 3 AC110s for now, so I don't have to worry about the sump yet. I plan on drilling a hole in my main tank as close to the frame as I can get. I believe the water will stay about 1/2-1in over the drain hole so that should be enough space. Thoughts?
 

JK47

Retired MFK Admin
MFK Member
Aug 4, 2008
11,112
3,478
2,555
Washington
JK47 JK47 thank you for the input and would love to see how you have done it. I am running 3 AC110s for now, so I don't have to worry about the sump yet. I plan on drilling a hole in my main tank as close to the frame as I can get. I believe the water will stay about 1/2-1in over the drain hole so that should be enough space. Thoughts?
Sounds like a plan but you may decide to go a step further. I don't like the idea of a dead fish or leaf blocking the exit flow and causing a tank overflow. You'll need to find a way to ensure that doesn't happen. The low profile intake strainers are what I use too. They can be blocked though. It's pretty hard to do but the leaf one bit me before with the same approach. Having said that I am still comfortable with the low exposure and would do it again. I would just set a piece of wood or something against it to make it harder to block
 
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store