Basement floor is not level

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Mark K

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Oct 2, 2017
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I am looking to make a rack in the basement to breed fish on. The rack will likely look much like this.

stand idea (4).JPG


The floor is not level. How much leeway do you think I have in 24 inches or 16 if I use the brick method?

Also, any ideas on how to level the bricks assuming I go with that plan?

This example fishroom belongs to one of you. I like it.
 
Just my preference and experience. I have used shims and self leveling compound to help correct basement floors. I try to aim for no more than 1/16” off level through a 4’ span.
 
The glass tanks and stand will take a lot more water depth than the tank will hold so there is no structural issue with having an uneven floor.

On my racks, I deliberately tilt the tanks so any overflow goes down the front face first. I want to notice any issues early. The easiest way to do this is to have 15mm thich polystyrene strip at the front and 20mm thick at the back but even a few centimeters tilt is fine unless it becomes a stability issue on 4 tier stands.

If you don't like seeing uneven water, add some black PVC tape to hide the water levels.
 
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I agree that an imperfectly level floor is not a huge concern...up to a point. A nice flat floor that has a very minute slope in one direction only is not likely to be an issue. However, if the floor is...like my basement floor...a bit "wavy", with complex slopes at various angles to one another, then you can have a problem. If you put the tank/stand on the floor and it is leaning a bit towards one end, but is in complete contact at all four corners, you should be okay; but if the tank/stand sits in such a way that one corner is always off the floor, then the stresses this sets up can be disastrous. This situation is typical in basements that have floor drains, as the concrete is purposefully sloped towards the drain from all directions.

Personally, I would build the stand by attaching a perfectly level piece of wood to the wall, running the length of the stand, and then build the stand using that as a reference point. Attach the two end pieces and the front piece, temporarily supporting them so they are also perfectly level. Then carefully measure and cut each leg individually, making each the correct length to support its corner evenly and also rest hard on the floor. Having each leg a different length, to suit the discrepancies in your floor, requires building the stand in place, and requires a proper 4- or 6-foot carpenter's for accuracy. Additional braces, reinforcements and other pieces can then be easily added. Done this way, it doesn't matter how goofy the floor may be; the tank support surface will be absolutely flat and level, which is IMHO the ideal solution.

I've made a number of racks and stands this way to match the wonky floors in several basements. It's much easier done than described. The only negatives to this method are the fact that the construction must be done on location, and once the stand is completed, there is no moving it; it fits there and nowhere else.
 
The only real reason to make sure a tank is level is so it has a nice even water line across the top. There is no problem with the tanks being a little out of level as long as the base they sit on is planer (flat). Planer and a little out of lever is no big deal. When the base has two opposing corners that are higher than the other two corners (not planer) this starts to tweak the tank and this is where problems usually occur from the pressure points the non planer base creates on the bottom rim of the tank. A yoga mat can help take up little inconsistencies and help give the tank equal support around the bottom rim. Bigger inconsistencies should be taken care of by shimming between the board the tank sits on and the brick supporting the board.
 
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I abandoned the brick idea and went to Menards and bought a heavy duty pallet rack. It is only 24 inches deep though. 3 shelves and can take more weight than I will ever put on it. I could put 3 180's on it if I could get them into the basement which I can't any way. I am using 1 x 10 and 1 x 20 planks for the decking. I have one row of aquariums on it for sizing it up with pink panther under them.
 
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Pallet racks can be very sturdy but the ones I am familiar with will telegraph the unevenness of the floor up through the various shelves when there is weight on them. Are you planning on shimming under the feet of the pallet rack to account for variations in the floor?

The foam should account for minor variations, I would only worry about major variances in the floor tweaking the shelves which in turn would tweak the tanks. It sounds like I am probably being overly cautious with your install though! :)
 
I can't get the Mary Poppin's song about chimneys out of my head except its "shim, shimny, shim, shimny":ROFL:
 
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