Beani

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PwNz I R COLE

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Jul 2, 2012
1,093
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Mt.Laurel NJ
I am thinking about getting a new addition but I heard there very hard to keep anything I should know

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Yes.

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If you get a Beani with nuchal hump, patterns over the dome reaching to the snout, then you'll have a frikin holly grail.. But good luck to that. You'll need ever bit of luck to get what I mentioned.
 
They can be difficult, less so, if you treat them with kid gloves.
They are not good with other fish, especially other cichlids in anything other than the largest tanks, say 300 gallons or so.
I got my first beani from baldtaxguy, and they died of ducklips in a summer heat wave (high 80sF).
I have found that they do best with temps in the high 60sF to low 70s, and can take temps much lower. I just pulled mine from my Wisconsin pond, where night water temps often dropped into the high 50s.

Although I have heard they are susceptible to bloat, I never had that problem, and credit it to low temp, low protein, and large every other day water changes (30%-40%)
Mine spawned at a temp around 68'F, and raised a number of fry, that seemed to be prone to killing each other starting at about 1".

They are kept separated from other cichlids, are fed pellets high in spirulina and low in protein.
Here's a female with fry

I've had the male for a little over 2 years, he is now in a 6 ft tank for the winter, divided from a female with eggcrate.
 
I worked at store that had a male with the spots all down the face. His name was Chester and man that was one great looking fish. Good luck with those guys.
 
They can be difficult, less so, if you treat them with kid gloves.
They are not good with other fish, especially other cichlids in anything other than the largest tanks, say 300 gallons or so.
I got my first beani from baldtaxguy, and they died of ducklips in a summer heat wave (high 80sF).
I have found that they do best with temps in the high 60sF to low 70s, and can take temps much lower. I just pulled mine from my Wisconsin pond, where night water temps often dropped into the high 50s.

Although I have heard they are susceptible to bloat, I never had that problem, and credit it to low temp, low protein, and large every other day water changes (30%-40%)
Mine spawned at a temp around 68'F, and raised a number of fry, that seemed to be prone to killing each other starting at about 1".

They are kept separated from other cichlids, are fed pellets high in spirulina and low in protein.
Here's a female with fry

I've had the male for a little over 2 years, he is now in a 6 ft tank for the winter, divided from a female with eggcrate.

Thanks for all the good info I knew they were agressive and could claim 600 gal tanks but I did not know the diet or temp basically a heater is useless and room temp will be fine ?

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When I first pulled the male from the outdoor pond, I put him in a 500 gal pool with some Uruguayan pike cichids, and Australoheros in the basement, he was very aggressive from the get go, attacking anything that came close. I moved him to a divided tank to save the other cichlids lives.
And yes, I only run heaters with beani in the dead of winter, and then set the temp at 68'F.

The beani is in the lower left corner of the pic.
There was a great article on beani by Dan Woodland in Cichlid News Magazine.
 
I've had success growing out Beani in a community setting and solo. It took about two years before I had to separate the Beani from the community tank. Right now, I'm growing out a male in its own tank with no heater and feed a low protein diet.


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That's a beauty Ruck.
I was able to grow out some small beani in a 150 gal with some Acarichthys for a while, but at about 3 inches the other fish started missing finnage, and it was time to move the beani.
And the females came into spawning condition at only 2" which started a bit of carnage.

 
Good looking beani fellas another question I have is I noticed that theres a brown and gold variant and a white variant.do the brown ones turn white or do are they separate regional variants?

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