Best Semi-automatic drain and Fill water change system?

ahud

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Aug 15, 2009
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I'm trying to come up with a water change solution that works for me and I need a little help. By "best" I mean a system that is robust and virtually overflow/leak proof. Is not bulky and can be concealed in a finished space. And is flexible enough that I can add and remove aquariums without a major overhaul.

Draining is the easy part. I can drill the tanks and add bulkheads. The tanks will contain three bulkheads in total . 1) One at the 50% water change mark. 2) One at the 20% water change mark. And finally, a hole at the top of the tank to function as a overflow. The overflow would stay open at all times and prevent the tanks from overfilling. I know three holes is a little excessive, but this would allow me to run a simple drain and fill system as well as a drip system should I need to go fully automatic in the future.

For returning the water, I want to use a storage vessel for the water change water. I have chloramines and I do not want to deal with the added cost of filtering out the chloramines. If I use a vessel, I can just add prime. Secondly, I can keep this container in a utility closest away from the main tanks.

Here is where I need some help:
  1. If I use a pump to return water to the aquariums. Could I use drip emitters to return water relatively evenly across multiple tanks? The emitters need not be precise, since each tank will have an overflow to prevent overfilling. I could just walk away and let the emitters run until the tanks fill completely.
  2. What type of sensor/switch would work to turn the pump off to prevent it from running dry?
  3. What options do I have to automate and or overflow proof the process of filling up my water change storage vessel? The container is most likely going to be in the 2-300 gallon range. So filling it up will take some time. I know I'll be stupid enough to walk away when refilling it and completely forget about it.
  4. Added information: I do not want to automate the action of adding prime to the water storage vessel. I don't want to fiddle with dosing pumps or always worry about it failing.
I am trying to get a feel for what would work for the above situation. My wife and I are slowly closing on being able to build our dream home. One of the big decisions I have to make is if I want to do a "man cave" type deal with the tanks in an outbuilding. Or incorporate my fish room into my office. The office would be cheaper and I think I would enjoy the tanks more. The "man cave" will be more expensive, but loads more options as far as space, plumbing, etc.

Finally, the number of tanks to have is still something I have not narrowed down. Hence hoping I can come up with something that is flexible. No matter what, I expect the bulk of my tanks to be either 120g or 180g tanks because I enjoy community tanks. I would like to have a small section of 20g long tanks for breeding/raising fry. But these would not be ran all of the time.

Can I get thoughts and opinions on this? Is there an easier way to accomplish what I am trying to do?
 

millerkid519

Aimara
MFK Member
Feb 16, 2015
2,251
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stratford ontario canada
My first question is are you going to be on well or city water. If city water do they use chlorine or chloramine because prime may not be needed.

For your resovoir tank I would use an ato switch at the bottom of the tank so it will not run dry and a float switch from the hardware store for refilling same as in your main tanks. I would run seperate pumps for each tank and wire your float switch and ato switch in series so that if both contacts aren't "made" your pump will shut off which works as a fail safe on both ends.
Me personally I would set them up as 3 seperate systems to avoid any issues
 
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millerkid519

Aimara
MFK Member
Feb 16, 2015
2,251
931
135
stratford ontario canada
My first question is are you going to be on well or city water. If city water do they use chlorine or chloramine because prime may not be needed.

For your resovoir tank I would use an ato switch at the bottom of the tank so it will not run dry and a float switch from the hardware store for refilling i would also use the same style float switch in your main tanks. I would run seperate pumps for each tank and wire your float switch and ato switch in series so that if both contacts aren't "made" your pump will shut off which works as a fail safe on both ends.
Me personally I would set them up as 3 seperate systems to avoid any issues
 

ahud

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Aug 15, 2009
294
69
61
My first question is are you going to be on well or city water. If city water do they use chlorine or chloramine because prime may not be needed.

For your resovoir tank I would use an ato switch at the bottom of the tank so it will not run dry and a float switch from the hardware store for refilling same as in your main tanks. I would run seperate pumps for each tank and wire your float switch and ato switch in series so that if both contacts aren't "made" your pump will shut off which works as a fail safe on both ends.
Me personally I would set them up as 3 seperate systems to avoid any issues
Thanks for the response Millerkid519,

My current place uses Chloramine. From what I understand, most of the surrounding area either is or will be. I would rather treat with prime to be safe. I have had my share of tap water problems (ammonia, nitrate, low oxygen).

Can you explain why multiple pumps would be needed?

And why not use one pump supplying drip emitters? They make pressure compensating emitters that should keep the water flowing to the tanks evenly (if they work as intended).
 
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