biological only canister filter

[Robert Fling]

alright I’ve got a dilemma, I want a sump but I have to drill my tank because I do not like the hang on back overflows. I’ll eventually buy a new tank the same size and drill it before swapping the tanks out but for now I don’t have the time. The tank is a 75 gallon lightly stocked with 6 baby haplochromis with a sun sun canister filter. I was wondering if it would be better if I just took out the filter pad and stuffed it full of ceramic rings so it wouldn’t become a “nitrate factory”? Also if I did that I would pick up an aquaclear 110 which would be much easier to rinse off the filter pad.

 

[duanes]

Nitrate is a by-product of biological filtration.
A build up of gunk in a filter over time, exacerbates that nitrate production, but I don't understand how taking out the pad would then help.
I believe taking out the pad will allow the gunk to smother beneficial bacteria on the bio-media.
Whether or not the pad is in or out, the filter would still need to be purged of gunk.
I do prefer HOBs because they are easy to clean, and easier usually means done more often.

 

[tlindsey]

alright I’ve got a dilemma, I want a sump but I have to drill my tank because I do not like the hang on back overflows. I’ll eventually buy a new tank the same size and drill it before swapping the tanks out but for now I don’t have the time. The tank is a 75 gallon lightly stocked with 6 baby haplochromis with a sun sun canister filter. I was wondering if it would be better if I just took out the filter pad and stuffed it full of ceramic rings so it wouldn’t become a “nitrate factory”? Also if I did that I would pick up an aquaclear 110 which would be much easier to rinse off the filter pad.

I don't use canister filters but if you take out the pad there wouldn't be anything to catch waste, food etc. It would the same as a sump without a filter sock or pad.

 

[Ulu]

Flow through a canister is too fast for the best bio-action. Removing the pad makes it even faster. Until it clogs.

 

[twentyleagues]

You could do this. I did it and it made cleaning so much eaiser. But here is the thing that will allow you to make this work. A prefilter sponge on the intake. That way you just pull it off the intake and rinse it out. I was able to do that about 2 times a week much eaiser then opening up my 306 or 406.
They are correct if you just remove the mech you'll only end up hurting yourself. You must have mech before the bio. Doing the prefilter allowed me to wait about a month between cleanings of the canisters insides on my 75. I only had bio in both filters. I had sponges on both intakes. And I set up a water polisher, plastic water bottle with the bottom cut off filled with filter floss run by a mj900. Id pop that in after a particularly messing feeding or a couple times a week. Ran about 30ppm nitrate with weekly 75% wc.

 

[Ulu]

I agree. Add a sponge to slow flow and increase BB activity.

 

[kendragon]

If you are trying to build a biological only canister you need to fill it with self cleaning media. As the bio film builds it must be able to drop off to maintain a thin film. Higher flow will help bring oxygen and maintain a thin film on the medias.
My pool filter is filled with media similar to K1 with a 3000gph pump. Filter never clogs or slow down. I have a separate mechanical filter but never had to use it. Water is very clear and requires only a gravel vac once a week.

 

[Ulu]

Moving media filters require infrequent cleaning, but must be large to be effective. Are they economical on a tank so small? Faster flow does mean less reliance on circulation-only devices.

 

[Robert Fling]

So if I took the pad out and put a sponge filter over the intake it would be as effective as leaving the filter pad in the canister? Just easier to clean

 

[twentyleagues]

That is what I found. It worked great imo. Aquarium co op sells premade sponge filters that work great around $8-$10.