Hi Wednesday,
Interesting: "Silicone adheres very well to epoxy paints…" is pretty much the opposite of my experience & most/all I've read in building both aquaria & ancient Boston Whalers (boats). My experience is that silicone doesn't stick to anything but glass, and pretty much nothing sticks to it in return. Yes, it's fine~great as a sandwiched gasket. Charney might get away with if the epoxy is highly roughened, but I'd (strongly) recommend a polyurethane sealant/cement (like 5200) for sticking to epoxy. Though 5200's not great with glass, it's better than silicone-to-epoxy. Silicone to glass & held as gasket is good, can back/lock with glassed epoxy to hold that sandwich.
Appreciating your massive experience, I'm curious for FishDance's response in this, as his experience is/was similar to mine.
GelCoat tends to be a polyester resin, though cures differently so more-or-less waterproof. It's used as the wet later on boats as it's way cheaper than epoxy, so the headache of setting gets mitigated in the factory's economy of scale.
Charney,
just make sure you're not setting polyester resin (fiberglass) in direct contact with water as it will soak/degrade, though that's for resins & not necessarily for factory-produced FRP sheets. The wet-layer needs to be either polyvinyl or epoxy resin, the latter being the preference for smaller & home jobs. You can do the structure with a poly resin as it's relatively cheap, but it's also stinky & nasty & toxic so ventilate the room (vinyl's far worse). For the final & bonding corners etc, epoxy resin ticks to old poly, but poly resin won't stick to epoxy very well. It doesn't stick to cured poly terribly well either. Roughen & clean.