Bottom Drain to Sump, Bio Filter, etc plumbing - bad/inferior design?

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Desdinova

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Oct 1, 2010
119
0
0
Kentucky
I want to build a tank with a bottom filter or two, to pull the waste out from the bottom. I thought up a design that basically uses some of the simple concepts of hydrostatics.

Is there a better design than this available? Or am I making good use of space with this cheap-aimed setup?

bottom-filter-design2.png

bottom-filter-design2.png
 
you'll need something to push the water over the top of the water level in the tank.. or maybe im not getting it.
 
why wouldnt you drain down into a sump? doesnt make sense to have the water travel up into the filter. It should flow down into the filter. And then back up into the tank.
 
This should be doable but you show the line going into the sump as higher than the water level in the main tank. You will want this line to be lower than the water level in the main tank. When the pump fails the levels in the main tank and sump will equalize. So you will want to plump the line going into sump with a water tight bulkhead. When the pump stops the bulkhead will be at least partially submerged when the tanks equalize.

The advantage of a configuration like this is you will get more flow from a smaller pump. The higher the head on a pump the less the pump will flow.

The running water differential between the two tanks (how much higher the water level in the main tank will be above the water level in the sump) will be determined by the size of the interconnecting plumping and the size of the pump.

A second drain used for a second sump would not be a good idea. All the in system water will end up in one sump or the other. If you want to add a second drain for water changes... this would be fine.
 
I thought it was obvious, but I guess not. The three tanks are closed systems. Basically, tubberware with lids on or something to that effect. Thus, the pipe that is above the water line will function, because the pump - in another tank - is pumping the water out of it's tank and into the aquarium. If the lids were off, it wouldn't work. Also, the filter is at the top, so that I have easy access to the filter bag.

Been a long day. I'm going to re-read Oughtsix's post tomorrow evening and continue from there. Thanks for the feedback guys.
 
The reason I have the line going above the surface is because I figured it would be easier if the filter bag was hovering in air, with the water flowing into it. Thus, I could just open the tank, take the bag out for cleaning, and replace it. I've seen sumps with the bags attached to an acrylic plate, but I'm not sure how I could do something like that without damaging the bag. A slightly more expensive pump seems like an easier solution.
 
I'm using this system on my 360 and my 120. It works. If you follow the drawing you can put the drain anywhere on the tank. I put my drain holes on the side of my tanks instead of the bottom. The only real problem is the flow is slower than I expected. The good thing is you get crap off the bottom. My 360 has three 1.5" holes in it. Two are the lower design to take crap off the bottom and one is an over flow to take surface water. I really like this system because I can clean the upper and lower parts of the tank (4 foot deep) all with one sump.

NEW 500 GAL PLUMBING.jpg
 
I'm using this system on my 360 and my 120. It works. If you follow the drawing you can put the drain anywhere on the tank. I put my drain holes on the side of my tanks instead of the bottom. The only real problem is the flow is slower than I expected. The good thing is you get crap off the bottom. My 360 has three 1.5" holes in it. Two are the lower design to take crap off the bottom and one is an over flow to take surface water. I really like this system because I can clean the upper and lower parts of the tank (4 foot deep) all with one sump.
Thats a good design^^^I WILL be borrowing.
 
Something similar.....
The drain is placed at the rear of the tank at the bottom level. (didn't want it underneath due to stand issues etc.) The water flows up the pipe to the top then over and down the main drain to the sump. the other 2 levels allow me to do a 30% water change or a full drain (nearly) by opening the valves. Warning, use at LEAST 1" pipe and a 1" bulkhead. The last little offshoot there on the bottom is connected to a hose adapter which allows me very fast draining to my outside plants or wherever. I can also use it as a fill line from my tap sine i have a waterbed adapter kit as well. makes maintenance sooooo much easier.
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103_0146.JPG

103_0140.JPG

103_0146.JPG
 
Something similar.....
The drain is placed at the rear of the tank at the bottom level. (didn't want it underneath due to stand issues etc.) The water flows up the pipe to the top then over and down the main drain to the sump. the other 2 levels allow me to do a 30% water change or a full drain (nearly) by opening the valves. Warning, use at LEAST 1" pipe and a 1" bulkhead. The last little offshoot there on the bottom is connected to a hose adapter which allows me very fast draining to my outside plants or wherever. I can also use it as a fill line from my tap sine i have a waterbed adapter kit as well. makes maintenance sooooo much easier.
View attachment 767952

View attachment 767953

I love it, good design

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