Brainstorming an idea....

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Lonewolfblue

Feeder Fish
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Sep 19, 2005
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Wenatchee, WA
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For a while now I have been looking at getting a 300G tank. It's still in the thinking stage, and have an idea for the filtration, and thought I'd ask to see if anyone has done anything like it.

I'm looking at doing 2 XP4 filters. I was going to do 3, but have another option that I'm working on. I was just wondering if anyone has ever had a tank drilled, and bulkheads put in, to hook a cannister filter to? I was looking at doing a 5/8" on each end of the tank, as well as 2 in the center, all 4 being very close to the bottom of the tank. On the exterior of the tank, the 2 center ones will hook up to the cannister output, and on the interior, there will be 2 spraybars, one going each direction along the bottom of the tank. Then for the other 2 holes, will be hooked up to the intake of the cannister filters. On the interior of the tank, I would have a 90 degree elbow and a short tube going up. And in 2 areas, there will be a t-connector, and off the T-connector will be the intake screens, and possibly a prefilter sponge over those intakes. The total height of the intake will only come up to about half way up the back of the tank.

What do you think, will it work? Will I see any problems priming the filters? The way I look at it, this will get rid of everything going over the top of the tank. I will use inline heaters, so no cords going into the tank either. Just brainstorming ideas here. Any input is appreciated.
 
It looks like it work fine, the cannister's will probably prime easier with the intakes like that, shouldn't be a problem.

The only issue I see is in mantainence on the canisters, with the bulkhead fittings all low on the tank any leaks could empty the tank down to that level...

Have you considered a sump?
 
This tank is a CO2 injected, planted tank, and I prefer not to have a sump. There would be too much CO2 loss. I want to keep everything self contained as much as possible.

Another idea is having the holes up higher, and the intake and output tubes going down. But then they would be more visible.
 
main worry is maintanance. make shure you fit valves on.
 
Just remember that whatever height you put the returns at will increase the head of the canister's pump due to the weight of the water. Normally canisters only have to overcome the distance from the filter to the rim, and the water in the hose. If you put them down low, you might hurt the pump by having too much pressure for it to overcome, and at the very least, you will have decreased flow rates.
 
ercnan;962295; said:
Just remember that whatever height you put the returns at will increase the head of the canister's pump due to the weight of the water. Normally canisters only have to overcome the distance from the filter to the rim, and the water in the hose. If you put them down low, you might hurt the pump by having too much pressure for it to overcome, and at the very least, you will have decreased flow rates.

Water pressure doesn't work that way, water height is all that counts, doesn't matter if it's water in a hose or water in a 180gal tank (or water in the ocean) 3' of water height (or whatever) is 3' of head pressure in all cases.

Also these pumps cannot be harmed by restricting the outlet.
 
Volenti;962353; said:
Water pressure doesn't work that way, water height is all that counts, doesn't matter if it's water in a hose or water in a 180gal tank (or water in the ocean) 3' of water height (or whatever) is 3' of head pressure in all cases.

Also these pumps cannot be harmed by restricting the outlet.

Guess I'll retract my statement. Apparently I'm wrong. :) :)
Time for an experiment.
 
Basically, if I do it at the bottom of the tank, then the head height will only be 2-2.5', depending on how tall I make my stand. I will be building my own stand for this tank. And it will definitely be solid, as it's going to be holding about 3000lbs, I think. Maybe a little more.
 
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