So I finally completed my pressurized Co2 system and I thought I would share it with everyone. They are definently not that hard to build if you research enough. Hopefully this will help anyone who needs a little help of how to do it!
Parts: In order of how they are connected
1. 10Lb Co2 Cylinder (with perma-seal)
2. Dual stage regulator (fisher scientific) with a CGA 320 nut and stem
3. Reducing hex-Male 1/4" to male 1/8" (part#B-4-HRN-2)
4. 90 degree elbow- 1/8" female to 1/8" male (part# B-2-SE)
5. Burkert 6011 Brass Solenoid- plugged into a timer with my lights
6. Hex -1/8" male to 1/8" male (part #B-2-HN )
7. Ideal Needle Vale: model# 52-1-12
8. Check valve 1/8" male to 1/8" male (to make sure no water seeps back into the system and ruins it) (part #B-2C2-1/3)
9. JBJ Bubble counter
10. Co2 resistant tubing
12. Brass check valve (so nothing back flows into the bubble counter)
13. Diffuser
(also needed is either Teflon tape or non hardening pipe dope to put in between the connections)
-All the brass connecting pieces (reducing hex, hex, check valve, elbow) were purchased from Swagelok.com, but you might be able to find some at any hardware store (although I could not)
-The regulator was purchased off eBay and already had a CGA 320 nut and stem on it
-the solenoid (Brass Burkert 6011, pre wired), timer, Co2 cylinder, perma seal, tubing, etc were order off aquariumplants.com
-the diffuser, JBJ bubble counter, brass check valve were ordered of eBay
-the needle valve was ordered from idealvalve.com (type 52-1-12)
All the parts: (regulator, timer, tubing, brass connections, pipe dope, needle valve, solenoid, etc...)
The layout: regulator-reducing hex (already attached to regulator)-elbow-solenoid-male to male hex- ideal valve-check valve- JBJ bubble counter
1. The first step is to remove any parts that are not needed (either replacing the CGA and/or remove any other attachments) and attaching your own reducing hex (1/4"male to 1/8"male) with non-hardening pipe dope
2. Next attach the elbow (1/8" female to 1/8" amle) with pipe dope
3. Attach the solenoid with pipe dope (this can tricky as there is not much space and i had to remove the top black plastic part in order to screw it in tighly)
4-5. Attach the male to male hex to solenoid and attach the needle valve to the hex
6-7. attach the check valve into the outflow port of the needle valve and attach the bubble counter to the check valve with pipe dope and the supplied rubber washer (for this bubble counter)
8. Finishing steps: attach the tubing, add check valve to the tubing, attach to diffuser (or whatever else you would be using),then attach the unit to the Co2 cylinder with a perma seal
-Remember to leak test your connections, fill your cylinder and and fine tune your system
-there are many different parts and step ups you can make, hopefully this helps someone and gives people a general idea of hows its done
-for more information on what each part does and how to start up your system look at the Pressurized CO2 101 post
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?341879-Pressurized-CO2-Injection-101
Parts: In order of how they are connected
1. 10Lb Co2 Cylinder (with perma-seal)
2. Dual stage regulator (fisher scientific) with a CGA 320 nut and stem
3. Reducing hex-Male 1/4" to male 1/8" (part#B-4-HRN-2)
4. 90 degree elbow- 1/8" female to 1/8" male (part# B-2-SE)
5. Burkert 6011 Brass Solenoid- plugged into a timer with my lights
6. Hex -1/8" male to 1/8" male (part #B-2-HN )
7. Ideal Needle Vale: model# 52-1-12
8. Check valve 1/8" male to 1/8" male (to make sure no water seeps back into the system and ruins it) (part #B-2C2-1/3)
9. JBJ Bubble counter
10. Co2 resistant tubing
12. Brass check valve (so nothing back flows into the bubble counter)
13. Diffuser
(also needed is either Teflon tape or non hardening pipe dope to put in between the connections)
-All the brass connecting pieces (reducing hex, hex, check valve, elbow) were purchased from Swagelok.com, but you might be able to find some at any hardware store (although I could not)
-The regulator was purchased off eBay and already had a CGA 320 nut and stem on it
-the solenoid (Brass Burkert 6011, pre wired), timer, Co2 cylinder, perma seal, tubing, etc were order off aquariumplants.com
-the diffuser, JBJ bubble counter, brass check valve were ordered of eBay
-the needle valve was ordered from idealvalve.com (type 52-1-12)
All the parts: (regulator, timer, tubing, brass connections, pipe dope, needle valve, solenoid, etc...)
The layout: regulator-reducing hex (already attached to regulator)-elbow-solenoid-male to male hex- ideal valve-check valve- JBJ bubble counter
1. The first step is to remove any parts that are not needed (either replacing the CGA and/or remove any other attachments) and attaching your own reducing hex (1/4"male to 1/8"male) with non-hardening pipe dope
2. Next attach the elbow (1/8" female to 1/8" amle) with pipe dope
3. Attach the solenoid with pipe dope (this can tricky as there is not much space and i had to remove the top black plastic part in order to screw it in tighly)
4-5. Attach the male to male hex to solenoid and attach the needle valve to the hex
6-7. attach the check valve into the outflow port of the needle valve and attach the bubble counter to the check valve with pipe dope and the supplied rubber washer (for this bubble counter)
8. Finishing steps: attach the tubing, add check valve to the tubing, attach to diffuser (or whatever else you would be using),then attach the unit to the Co2 cylinder with a perma seal
-Remember to leak test your connections, fill your cylinder and and fine tune your system
-there are many different parts and step ups you can make, hopefully this helps someone and gives people a general idea of hows its done
-for more information on what each part does and how to start up your system look at the Pressurized CO2 101 post
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?341879-Pressurized-CO2-Injection-101
