So I recently decided to build a sump/refugium for my 30 gallon biocube. I initially went with a spare 10g that I had lying around, but after I had assembled it I realized I wanted to use a 40g I had in my backyard instead. Now I have two sumps an I think I may set up the 10g sump on my 8g biocube, but that's or another day 
.
I got out for spring break super early this year and am being kept inside due to the rain
So to pass the time I am going to do a step by step tutorial on building a sump. You can add more chambers if you wish, just modify the procedure to suit your specific needs. A regular sump or a sump/refugium can be made by following this procedure. Some of these pictures are done after the fact, but I hope you enjoy the tutorial none the less. Let's begin!!
Calpoly12's Sump Tutorial
Materials Used/Needed:
-Some Type Of Overflow
-Whether it's a HOB (hang on back) or a DIY (do it yourself), an overflow is absolutely required. For tanks like biocubes, a simply PVC overflow can be easily made for fairly cheap. Here are some links to making a PVC overflow. There is also a link to whether PVC cement/primer is aquarium safe.
-If you need more information on making a PVC overflow, send me a PM(private message) and I can make a tutorial for you!
-http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205645
-http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15733
-http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1387840
-Acrylic Sheets
-I used two 18"x24" acrylic sheet from Home Depot.If there is not a Home Depot in your area, any local hardware store will usually carry some form of acrylic sheet. Also, you may need more/less than two sheets. This is just how many I used. The dimensions of the acrylic sheet may need to be larger or smaller as well. Once again, it's all dependent upon your sumps dimensions.
-http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202038047/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
-Silicone
-Either 100% silicone or "fish safe" silicone will work fine. I purchased both for this project and I must say that I prefer the 100% silicone from Home Depot.
-If your wondering if any 100% silicone is safe, here are a few links.
-http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f45/100silicone-vs-100-aquarium-silicone-814.html
-http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/*************/archive/index.php/t-66423.html
-Scribing Knife
-This is not the tool I used, but I will show you how to use it. If you need more information in regards to using a scribing knife, visit the following link.
-http://www.ehow.com/how_2089221_cut-acrylic-plastic.html
-"Square"
-Most people have a square, but if you don't I would suggest picking one up at your local hardware store.
-A ruler my also suffice, but being to draw and cut perfectly straight lines is key.
-In case this is our first time using a square, here is a link to a video that demonstrates how to use one.
-http://www.ehow.com/video_4419319_use-carpenter-square.html
-Sharpie/Felt Pen
-This is going to come in handy when it comes to marking your lines on the acrylic. A black sharpie works the best.
-Empty Tank
-Whether it's a spare tank or a brand new one you just picked up, this is going to be an important part of the sump design.
-Tape
-Whether its masking tape or duct tape, it will work. The use for this will be explained later and will make life much, much easier.
-Tubing
-Tubing is used transport water from the pump to the main tank. I used five feet, but you may need more or less. If your comfortable using pvc piping and using that as a means to transport water back to the main tank, feel free to do so. I will not cover how to create a pvc rig in order to do this, but send me a PM and we could figure it out if you needed me to.
-You should be able to purchase the proper size and length at your LFS (local fish store).
-Pump
-Depending upon what size pipe your overflow uses to bring water into the tank, the proper size pump is required to somewhat match the GPH of the overflow.I will cover this in greater detail in the tutorial.
-Here is a link in advance:http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205645
Optional Materials
-Scroll Saw
-Although this would be an expensive purchase if it was solely for this project, it does make life much easier in my opinion. So if you happen to have one, I suggest you use it.
-Caulking Gun
-If you decided to buy the hard tube of silicone your going to need a caulking gun. If your unsure of what a caulking gun is, here is a link to 100% silicone and the caulking gun (at the bottom of the page).
-http://www.bcplastics.com/index.php?content=87
Things To Consider Before Beginning
Before you being the construction of your sump, take the time to gather the required materials. This will allow construction to go much quicker and smoother. Space is another very important thing to consider. Most people decide to put their sumps below their tank. This keeps it out of view and doesn't draw attention away from the main tank. While looking at the location you wish to put your sump, it would be a good time to see if there is any obstacles or hazards. "Unlevel" surfaces, weak support, etc. are all scenarios that should be dealt with or avoided if possible. One last thing is give yourself an ample amount of time. With the drying time of "quick dry" silicone being 12 hours, its going to take more than one day to assemble your sump. Don't rush the procedure because in the end the sump is going to be to better your aquarium. Have fun and enjoy the sump building process! Phew now that all of that is out of the way, we can get to the procedure!
Procedure
-Step 1:
Once you have your empty tank and materials, take your tank outside or into a bathtub. Fill the tank with some water and splash the sides. Using a razor blade, scrape the inside of the tank to clear any junk off of the inside of the glass. If your tank was outside you may have a significant amount of debris on the glass, but if it is new you may barely have any. **Be careful not to cut the silicon sealant on the edge of the tank**
-Step 2:
Using a large square or tape measure, figure out the width of the inside of the glass to figure out the width of the acrylic needed. To do this, measure from the back of the tank. This way you can see the "inside of the glass". See the picture below.
Measure from the red arrow to the other red arrow.If your width is off, your acrylic will not fit properly inside the sump. This will lead to leaks, sideways acrylic walls, etc. Be extremely precise!
This will give you the inside width of the glass.
-Step 3:
Once you have found the width of your tank, write it down so that you don't forget. Grab your sheets of acrylic and your square.
Square
-Step 4:
Place your square against the acrylic and make sure it is pushed flush against the acrylic.
-Step 5:
It is now time to mark on the acrylic. If your width of the inside of your tank was ex:11.75", then measure 11.75" on the acrylic sheet and mark this with a felt tip marker/sharpie.
-Step 6:
Flip the square over and measure the same distance on the opposite side. Mark this distance.
-Step 7:
Using a ruler or square, draw a line from the mark on the top to the mark on the bottom. This should be a perfectly vertical line.
-Step 8:
By now you should know the heights for your acrylic pieces as they will appear in your tank. As can be seen in the diagram above, my first piece is twelve inches. Depending on your size tank, twelve inches in height may be to big or too small.
Measure the height (ex:12") up the vertical line drawn in step #7. So I would go 12" up that line and make a mark. Do the same on the opposite side and draw a horizontal line across.
-Step 9:
The acrylic should now have a square that is the width of the inside of your sump. The square drawn on the acrylic should also have the desired height of the first acrylic piece. This needs to be done for as many acrylic pieces that you want inside your sump. For example, my sump technically has 4 chambers so I had to cut 3 acrylic sheets.
Repeat steps 4-8 as many times as you need.
The only thing that needs to change is the height of each piece. For example, I used two 12" tall pieces and one 15" tall piece. The width of each acrylic piece should stay the same because the width inside your tank should remain constant. Once steps 4-8 have been repeated the necessary amount of times, it is time to move on.
If you are using a scroll saw, skip to step 19. There are some extremely useful tips I discuss in regards to using a skill saw.
-Step 10:
If you have never used a scribing knife, I suggest you go to this link for some tips.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2089221_cut-acrylic-plastic.html
-Step 11:
Place the acrylic sheet on a table, chair, or workbench. Make sure the end of the acrylic is hanging off the edge of the table. This is done so that when the scribing knife comes off the acrylic, it won't scratch the cutting surface.
Scribing Knife.
Acrylic is hanging off the edge of the chair.
-Step 12:
Find an item that is can be cut against. A square, metal ruler, etc. I preferred to use the square, it was metal and straight.
-Step 13:
Apply a significant amount of downward pressure to the object the scribing knife will run against, ex:square, and begin to run the scribing knife along the acrylic. Multiple passes are going to be made along the lines.
-Step 14:
Eventually a groove will develop where the acrylic was scored. Do this to all the sides of the acrylic that need to be cut.
-Step 15:
Once all the sides of the acrylic have been scored, take the acrylic to a table,vice, or chair. I prefer a vice.
A wide shot of the acrylic in the vice.
-Step 16:
Place the acrylic on the table with the scored portion on the edge of the table,chair,vice.The scored portion should be facing up towards you.
A close up of the acrylic in the vice, the score marks are lined up with the top of the vice. The scored side is facing me.
-Step 17:
Apply a gently,but constant, amount of pressure until the acrylic breaks.
Applying pressure to the acrylic.
ATTACHMENT
After the pressure is applied, the acrylic will break in clean,smooth lines.
-Step 18:
Repeat steps 11-17 as many times as necessary. When you are done, your acrylic should be "ready" to put into the tank.
*If you used the scribing knife, skip to step 23.*
*Please note:If your acrylic has a plastic covering that is stuck to the top, DO NOT REMOVE IT. Removing it will cause the acrylic to melt while you cut it. For best performance, leave the plastic covering on until you are completely done cutting.*
-Step 19:
After the acrylic is marked, take it to your scroll saw. Line the acrylic up so that it is perpendicular to the blade.
The acrylic is perpendicular to the blade.
The acrylic is perpendicular to the blade.
-Step 20:
Slowly feed the acrylic into the saw. If you go to fast, the saw will heat the acrylic which will cause the acrylic to melt. If you melt the acrylic your saw will become stuck and your cut will be poor. When I say slow, I mean that it should take a good three to four minutes to cut a 12" line. Remember to use a fresh saw blade for the best performance.
A nice, clean cut. As you can see, the plastic covering is still on.
-Step 21:
Take your time to slowly cut your pieces. When you are finished, you should have an extremely clean cut piece of acrylic.
-Step 22:
Repeat steps 19-22 as many times as need be.
-Step 23:
Take your acrylic pieces back to your empty tank and grab your acrylic.
If your using the tube of silicone, grab it.
If your using a caulking gun and tube, grab both of those.
-Step 24:
Now depending on how long you want your fish chamber to be,measure along the tank ,length wise, until you reach your desired length.
For example, my first chamber was 6" long and 12" high.
Some of the things that I considered, and you may want to also, were depth of the protein skimmer, depth of the PVC overflow, etc. You may want to consider all of these things before you decide where to put your first chamber wall. If you have any questions or if your unsure about anything, send me a PM and we can work it out.
-Step 25:
Grab your silicone and caulking gun (if needed). Place the acrylic in the tank and use tape to hold it in place. See picture below for an example. Leave this tape in place until the silicone is no longer tacky.
The tape can be seen holding the acrylic in place.
-Step 26:
With the tape holding the acrylic in place, apply a generous amount of silicone down the sides of the acrylic sheet. Then use your finger, or other device, to "smoothen" the bead of silicone out.
**This is how to support an acrylic piece so that it will remain supported off the ground. For my first piece, I needed it supported at least 4" off the ground. The reason I needed it four inches off the ground was because I needed it to be about the 15" mark. With my second piece being 15", my first piece needed to be above that. This way the water would not be able to flow back into the first chamber.**
-Step 27:
Apply silicone where it is needed and wait for it to dry.
-Step 28:
Repeat the necessary steps as many times as you need.
-Step 29:
Once the silicone is completely dry (usually 12-48 hours) it is time to test your new sump! Take it to a bath tub and fill it with water. If you see any major leaks I would suggest fixing them. If there is minor leaks, you can probably let them be and it will be fine. If you do want to repair the leaks, drain the sump and dry the designated area. Apply silicone and wait for it to dry.
-Step 30:
Grab your designated pump and apply your tubing to the exhaust port.
Put the pump in your last chamber and turn it on to make sure it works.
-Step 31:
Run the tubing back to the tank and secure it in place. I use a zip-tie to fasten the tube to the bottom of the PVC overflow I made. Anywhere that is stable and practical is a good place to zip tie the exhaust tube.
Your sump is officially done!!!!!
Now, you need to choose what type of media your going to use. Scrubbies, live rock, etc. are all items that are used in sumps and depending upon your situation your needs may vary.
I made a refugium/sump for my tank and that is why I have a light over chamber #3. I took some left over acrylic and cut a hole in the top that is slightly smaller than the housing of the bulb. I then cut the acrylic so that it would sit on the top of the sump. The reason I cut a hole is so that the light does not have to pass through the acrylic.
If you have any questions,concerns, comments, etc. feel free to post them. If there is something you would like to see added, tell me and I can do my best to fix the tutorial. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and find it informative. Best of luck on your sump build and I'll see you around the forums!!!
. I got out for spring break super early this year and am being kept inside due to the rain
So to pass the time I am going to do a step by step tutorial on building a sump. You can add more chambers if you wish, just modify the procedure to suit your specific needs. A regular sump or a sump/refugium can be made by following this procedure. Some of these pictures are done after the fact, but I hope you enjoy the tutorial none the less. Let's begin!!Calpoly12's Sump Tutorial
Materials Used/Needed:
-Some Type Of Overflow
-Whether it's a HOB (hang on back) or a DIY (do it yourself), an overflow is absolutely required. For tanks like biocubes, a simply PVC overflow can be easily made for fairly cheap. Here are some links to making a PVC overflow. There is also a link to whether PVC cement/primer is aquarium safe.
-If you need more information on making a PVC overflow, send me a PM(private message) and I can make a tutorial for you!
-http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205645
-http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15733
-http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1387840
-Acrylic Sheets
-I used two 18"x24" acrylic sheet from Home Depot.If there is not a Home Depot in your area, any local hardware store will usually carry some form of acrylic sheet. Also, you may need more/less than two sheets. This is just how many I used. The dimensions of the acrylic sheet may need to be larger or smaller as well. Once again, it's all dependent upon your sumps dimensions.
-http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202038047/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
-Silicone
-Either 100% silicone or "fish safe" silicone will work fine. I purchased both for this project and I must say that I prefer the 100% silicone from Home Depot.
-If your wondering if any 100% silicone is safe, here are a few links.
-http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f45/100silicone-vs-100-aquarium-silicone-814.html
-http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/*************/archive/index.php/t-66423.html
-Scribing Knife
-This is not the tool I used, but I will show you how to use it. If you need more information in regards to using a scribing knife, visit the following link.
-http://www.ehow.com/how_2089221_cut-acrylic-plastic.html
-"Square"
-Most people have a square, but if you don't I would suggest picking one up at your local hardware store.
-A ruler my also suffice, but being to draw and cut perfectly straight lines is key.
-In case this is our first time using a square, here is a link to a video that demonstrates how to use one.
-http://www.ehow.com/video_4419319_use-carpenter-square.html
-Sharpie/Felt Pen
-This is going to come in handy when it comes to marking your lines on the acrylic. A black sharpie works the best.
-Empty Tank
-Whether it's a spare tank or a brand new one you just picked up, this is going to be an important part of the sump design.
-Tape
-Whether its masking tape or duct tape, it will work. The use for this will be explained later and will make life much, much easier.
-Tubing
-Tubing is used transport water from the pump to the main tank. I used five feet, but you may need more or less. If your comfortable using pvc piping and using that as a means to transport water back to the main tank, feel free to do so. I will not cover how to create a pvc rig in order to do this, but send me a PM and we could figure it out if you needed me to.
-You should be able to purchase the proper size and length at your LFS (local fish store).
-Pump
-Depending upon what size pipe your overflow uses to bring water into the tank, the proper size pump is required to somewhat match the GPH of the overflow.I will cover this in greater detail in the tutorial.
-Here is a link in advance:http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205645
Optional Materials
-Scroll Saw
-Although this would be an expensive purchase if it was solely for this project, it does make life much easier in my opinion. So if you happen to have one, I suggest you use it.
-Caulking Gun
-If you decided to buy the hard tube of silicone your going to need a caulking gun. If your unsure of what a caulking gun is, here is a link to 100% silicone and the caulking gun (at the bottom of the page).
-http://www.bcplastics.com/index.php?content=87
Things To Consider Before Beginning
Before you being the construction of your sump, take the time to gather the required materials. This will allow construction to go much quicker and smoother. Space is another very important thing to consider. Most people decide to put their sumps below their tank. This keeps it out of view and doesn't draw attention away from the main tank. While looking at the location you wish to put your sump, it would be a good time to see if there is any obstacles or hazards. "Unlevel" surfaces, weak support, etc. are all scenarios that should be dealt with or avoided if possible. One last thing is give yourself an ample amount of time. With the drying time of "quick dry" silicone being 12 hours, its going to take more than one day to assemble your sump. Don't rush the procedure because in the end the sump is going to be to better your aquarium. Have fun and enjoy the sump building process! Phew now that all of that is out of the way, we can get to the procedure!
Procedure
-Step 1:
Once you have your empty tank and materials, take your tank outside or into a bathtub. Fill the tank with some water and splash the sides. Using a razor blade, scrape the inside of the tank to clear any junk off of the inside of the glass. If your tank was outside you may have a significant amount of debris on the glass, but if it is new you may barely have any. **Be careful not to cut the silicon sealant on the edge of the tank**
-Step 2:
Using a large square or tape measure, figure out the width of the inside of the glass to figure out the width of the acrylic needed. To do this, measure from the back of the tank. This way you can see the "inside of the glass". See the picture below.
Measure from the red arrow to the other red arrow.If your width is off, your acrylic will not fit properly inside the sump. This will lead to leaks, sideways acrylic walls, etc. Be extremely precise!
This will give you the inside width of the glass.
-Step 3:
Once you have found the width of your tank, write it down so that you don't forget. Grab your sheets of acrylic and your square.
Square
-Step 4:
Place your square against the acrylic and make sure it is pushed flush against the acrylic.
-Step 5:
It is now time to mark on the acrylic. If your width of the inside of your tank was ex:11.75", then measure 11.75" on the acrylic sheet and mark this with a felt tip marker/sharpie.
-Step 6:
Flip the square over and measure the same distance on the opposite side. Mark this distance.
-Step 7:
Using a ruler or square, draw a line from the mark on the top to the mark on the bottom. This should be a perfectly vertical line.
-Step 8:
By now you should know the heights for your acrylic pieces as they will appear in your tank. As can be seen in the diagram above, my first piece is twelve inches. Depending on your size tank, twelve inches in height may be to big or too small.
Measure the height (ex:12") up the vertical line drawn in step #7. So I would go 12" up that line and make a mark. Do the same on the opposite side and draw a horizontal line across.
-Step 9:
The acrylic should now have a square that is the width of the inside of your sump. The square drawn on the acrylic should also have the desired height of the first acrylic piece. This needs to be done for as many acrylic pieces that you want inside your sump. For example, my sump technically has 4 chambers so I had to cut 3 acrylic sheets.
Repeat steps 4-8 as many times as you need.
The only thing that needs to change is the height of each piece. For example, I used two 12" tall pieces and one 15" tall piece. The width of each acrylic piece should stay the same because the width inside your tank should remain constant. Once steps 4-8 have been repeated the necessary amount of times, it is time to move on.
If you are using a scroll saw, skip to step 19. There are some extremely useful tips I discuss in regards to using a skill saw.
-Step 10:
If you have never used a scribing knife, I suggest you go to this link for some tips.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2089221_cut-acrylic-plastic.html
-Step 11:
Place the acrylic sheet on a table, chair, or workbench. Make sure the end of the acrylic is hanging off the edge of the table. This is done so that when the scribing knife comes off the acrylic, it won't scratch the cutting surface.
Scribing Knife.
Acrylic is hanging off the edge of the chair.
-Step 12:
Find an item that is can be cut against. A square, metal ruler, etc. I preferred to use the square, it was metal and straight.
-Step 13:
Apply a significant amount of downward pressure to the object the scribing knife will run against, ex:square, and begin to run the scribing knife along the acrylic. Multiple passes are going to be made along the lines.
-Step 14:
Eventually a groove will develop where the acrylic was scored. Do this to all the sides of the acrylic that need to be cut.
-Step 15:
Once all the sides of the acrylic have been scored, take the acrylic to a table,vice, or chair. I prefer a vice.
A wide shot of the acrylic in the vice.
-Step 16:
Place the acrylic on the table with the scored portion on the edge of the table,chair,vice.The scored portion should be facing up towards you.
A close up of the acrylic in the vice, the score marks are lined up with the top of the vice. The scored side is facing me.
-Step 17:
Apply a gently,but constant, amount of pressure until the acrylic breaks.
Applying pressure to the acrylic.
ATTACHMENT
After the pressure is applied, the acrylic will break in clean,smooth lines.
-Step 18:
Repeat steps 11-17 as many times as necessary. When you are done, your acrylic should be "ready" to put into the tank.
*If you used the scribing knife, skip to step 23.*
*Please note:If your acrylic has a plastic covering that is stuck to the top, DO NOT REMOVE IT. Removing it will cause the acrylic to melt while you cut it. For best performance, leave the plastic covering on until you are completely done cutting.*
-Step 19:
After the acrylic is marked, take it to your scroll saw. Line the acrylic up so that it is perpendicular to the blade.
The acrylic is perpendicular to the blade.
The acrylic is perpendicular to the blade.
-Step 20:
Slowly feed the acrylic into the saw. If you go to fast, the saw will heat the acrylic which will cause the acrylic to melt. If you melt the acrylic your saw will become stuck and your cut will be poor. When I say slow, I mean that it should take a good three to four minutes to cut a 12" line. Remember to use a fresh saw blade for the best performance.
A nice, clean cut. As you can see, the plastic covering is still on.
-Step 21:
Take your time to slowly cut your pieces. When you are finished, you should have an extremely clean cut piece of acrylic.
-Step 22:
Repeat steps 19-22 as many times as need be.
-Step 23:
Take your acrylic pieces back to your empty tank and grab your acrylic.
If your using the tube of silicone, grab it.
If your using a caulking gun and tube, grab both of those.
-Step 24:
Now depending on how long you want your fish chamber to be,measure along the tank ,length wise, until you reach your desired length.
For example, my first chamber was 6" long and 12" high.
Some of the things that I considered, and you may want to also, were depth of the protein skimmer, depth of the PVC overflow, etc. You may want to consider all of these things before you decide where to put your first chamber wall. If you have any questions or if your unsure about anything, send me a PM and we can work it out.
-Step 25:
Grab your silicone and caulking gun (if needed). Place the acrylic in the tank and use tape to hold it in place. See picture below for an example. Leave this tape in place until the silicone is no longer tacky.
The tape can be seen holding the acrylic in place.
-Step 26:
With the tape holding the acrylic in place, apply a generous amount of silicone down the sides of the acrylic sheet. Then use your finger, or other device, to "smoothen" the bead of silicone out.
**This is how to support an acrylic piece so that it will remain supported off the ground. For my first piece, I needed it supported at least 4" off the ground. The reason I needed it four inches off the ground was because I needed it to be about the 15" mark. With my second piece being 15", my first piece needed to be above that. This way the water would not be able to flow back into the first chamber.**
-Step 27:
Apply silicone where it is needed and wait for it to dry.
-Step 28:
Repeat the necessary steps as many times as you need.
-Step 29:
Once the silicone is completely dry (usually 12-48 hours) it is time to test your new sump! Take it to a bath tub and fill it with water. If you see any major leaks I would suggest fixing them. If there is minor leaks, you can probably let them be and it will be fine. If you do want to repair the leaks, drain the sump and dry the designated area. Apply silicone and wait for it to dry.
-Step 30:
Grab your designated pump and apply your tubing to the exhaust port.
Put the pump in your last chamber and turn it on to make sure it works.
-Step 31:
Run the tubing back to the tank and secure it in place. I use a zip-tie to fasten the tube to the bottom of the PVC overflow I made. Anywhere that is stable and practical is a good place to zip tie the exhaust tube.
Your sump is officially done!!!!!
Now, you need to choose what type of media your going to use. Scrubbies, live rock, etc. are all items that are used in sumps and depending upon your situation your needs may vary.
I made a refugium/sump for my tank and that is why I have a light over chamber #3. I took some left over acrylic and cut a hole in the top that is slightly smaller than the housing of the bulb. I then cut the acrylic so that it would sit on the top of the sump. The reason I cut a hole is so that the light does not have to pass through the acrylic.
If you have any questions,concerns, comments, etc. feel free to post them. If there is something you would like to see added, tell me and I can do my best to fix the tutorial. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and find it informative. Best of luck on your sump build and I'll see you around the forums!!!
