Can A Light Bulb Burn Out a Fixture?

[FishNCash]

I recently got some T5 and we tested at the store working perfectly fine. I took it home and used bulbs that were twice the fixture wattage. These bulbs were made in China with no brand. I turned it on and it would flicker for one seconds then it stopped working. I emailed the fixture manufacturer and they said my light fixture does support twice the power except it won't be any brighter than the normal output. I took it back to the LFS and they said it was the China bulb that cause my fixture to burn out. Is this possible?

 

[Toby_H]

If you open up the fixture, the ballast should be labeled with information on what wattage it can handle...

Is this a straight tube or a circle tube? A higher wattage straight tube is generally longer and thus won't fit into the smaller fxture. But who knows what weird stuff China makes...

I'm not exactly what 'could' happen with your situation, but I do know it is important to match the ballast and the bulb. Having to large of a balast with to small of a bulb will burn out the bulb. But I've never explored it the other way around.

It seems to me if the ballast is to small for the bulb, the bulb would not light. Isn't this what you experienced?

If you put a proper sized bulb in now, will the fixture work?

 

[FishNCash]

If you open up the fixture, the ballast should be labeled with information on what wattage it can handle...

Is this a straight tube or a circle tube? A higher wattage straight tube is generally longer and thus won't fit into the smaller fxture. But who knows what weird stuff China makes...

I'm not exactly what 'could' happen with your situation, but I do know it is important to match the ballast and the bulb. Having to large of a balast with to small of a bulb will burn out the bulb. But I've never explored it the other way around.

It seems to me if the ballast is to small for the bulb, the bulb would not light. Isn't this what you experienced?

If you put a proper sized bulb in now, will the fixture work?

I emailed the fixture manufacturer asking if it would ok to use 24 watt bulbs since they discontinued the 14w bulbs. They suggested it would be ok and recommended some of their 24watts 10k bulbs. They said it would be perfectly safe to use a higher power bulb with a lower power fixture but not vice versa. They even went as far to say other popular brand such as Coralife still make the 14w bulbs I'm looking for and would work. I bought those retrofit light fixture kits made for salt aquarium that you can link up to make it longer. I got two light fixture strips mouted into my light box. One fixture was paired up to the China T5 bulb and it's working perfectly fine. The other stopped working as soon as I turned it on. Because the LFS said it was the China bulbs that burn out the fixture I'm afraid to test it with the same bulbs. what do you think?

 

[Toby_H]

Did you say you have two of the same fixtures... and fitted both of them with China T5 bulbs... and one is working fine and the other blew?

If that is correct then I would have to believe something was done differently between the two...


I'll admit, I haven't done a whole lot of exploration in high end aquarium lighting. I do have a decent background in electrical though. So I know some stuff on this topic but I'm not familiar with the retrofit kit you are using and I'm not fully fluent in the newer (T5) bulbs. So I might miss something...


I'm often a bit of a skeptic when it comes to manufacturers. I would not ask a customer service rep what the ballast can handle... I would ask where it is written what the ballast can handle. I'm much more comfortable trusting somethign written by the designing engineer over the service rep.

So I would look at the ballast itself and get a number, or a part number which I would google to get the specs for. While it is true that many ballasts can support a number of different bulbs, it is very important to use a bulb that is within the ballasts range.


When you say 'The LFS said', this could mean anything. I know LFS guys that have been working with elaborate high end salt set ups for 30+ years and know more about aquarium lighting than a team of engineers... and I know LFS guys that get confused when programming a timer. Is the LFS guy you are referring to know lighting well or is he assuming that china made stuff sucks so it must be the problem...


I would personally shy away from using retro fit kits to alter a standard fixture... and would be inclined to use a bulb that was meant for the fixture I was using. Altering things is fine, but when we do so we have to make sure we learn the details of how to do so and learn them from a qualified source.

Based on the little bit you've mentioned that you have received from the fixture manufacturer, it does not seem they are feeding you answers to bring you to another sale. So I'd be inclined to trust what they are giving you.


Double check your wiring/installation and make sure everything is as it should be...


I cannot rule out the possibility of a poorly built China light. But then again chances are the ballast was made in china too.

 

[FishNCash]

Did you say you have two of the same fixtures... and fitted both of them with China T5 bulbs... and one is working fine and the other blew?

Yep, I have two of the same fixture and tested with the same model bulb but used another bulb. Nothing was done differently between the two. I had these lights before and have been pretty much problem free except for one incident. The wire soldered to the switch broke. I took out the switch and hot wire the light to bypass the switch then wrap it with heat shrink wrapper. I used a timer to turn my lights on and off so there is really no need for a switch. This would be the second incident I have problem with these lights.

If that is correct then I would have to believe something was done differently between the two...


I'll admit, I haven't done a whole lot of exploration in high end aquarium lighting. I do have a decent background in electrical though. So I know some stuff on this topic but I'm not familiar with the retrofit kit you are using and I'm not fully fluent in the newer (T5) bulbs. So I might miss something...


I'm often a bit of a skeptic when it comes to manufacturers. I would not ask a customer service rep what the ballast can handle... I would ask where it is written what the ballast can handle. I'm much more comfortable trusting somethign written by the designing engineer over the service rep.

So I would look at the ballast itself and get a number, or a part number which I would google to get the specs for. While it is true that many ballasts can support a number of different bulbs, it is very important to use a bulb that is within the ballasts range.


When you say 'The LFS said', this could mean anything. I know LFS guys that have been working with elaborate high end salt set ups for 30+ years and know more about aquarium lighting than a team of engineers... and I know LFS guys that get confused when programming a timer. Is the LFS guy you are referring to know lighting well or is he assuming that china made stuff sucks so it must be the problem...


I would personally shy away from using retro fit kits to alter a standard fixture... and would be inclined to use a bulb that was meant for the fixture I was using. Altering things is fine, but when we do so we have to make sure we learn the details of how to do so and learn them from a qualified source.

Based on the little bit you've mentioned that you have received from the fixture manufacturer, it does not seem they are feeding you answers to bring you to another sale. So I'd be inclined to trust what they are giving you.


Double check your wiring/installation and make sure everything is as it should be...


I cannot rule out the possibility of a poorly built China light. But then again chances are the ballast was made in china too.

The LFS is very knowledgeable and has 20yrs experience is maintaining and setting up salt aquariums. He suggested to use 14w to be on the safe side. He said 24w might work but I might burn out the ballast which make perfect sense.

The beauty of this kit is that there is not much custom installation involve. Everything is pretty much plug and play. The only thing I had to do was to screw four holes on my light box to mouth these lights. The lights I'm using is similiar to this kit.

http://akamai.f3images.com/IMD/600/CU01102/CU01102_99.jpg

 

[bob965]

Sounds like you used T5HO lamps in a normal output fixture, which shouldn't hurt anything. If the lamps work fine in another identical fixture, that narrows it down to a faulty fixture. The store should take it back, but it sounds like he's gonna hassle you since he's already trying to blame the lamps. You might have to ship it back to the manufacturer for a warranty claim.

 

[Toby_H]

Yep, I have two of the same fixture and tested with the same model bulb but used another bulb. Nothing was done differently between the two. I had these lights before and have been pretty much problem free except for one incident. The wire soldered to the switch broke. I took out the switch and hot wire the light to bypass the switch then wrap it with heat shrink wrapper. I used a timer to turn my lights on and off so there is really no need for a switch. This would be the second incident I have problem with these lights.

A broken solder connection is not something to really hold against them.

The LFS is very knowledgeable and has 20yrs experience is maintaining and setting up salt aquariums. He suggested to use 14w to be on the safe side. He said 24w might work but I might burn out the ballast which make perfect sense.

That's awesome that you have a quality LFS guy to consult...

The way something will burn out is to have more electricity pumped into it than it can handle. Just because the bulb is asking for more, doesn't mean the wall will give the blaast more... I am pretty sure the bulb will just get less than it wants. This will likely cause the bulb to either A) not illuminate, or B) be less bright. But I doubt it would burn out the ballast.

Sounds like you used T5HO lamps in a normal output fixture, which shouldn't hurt anything. If the lamps work fine in another identical fixture, that narrows it down to a faulty fixture. The store should take it back, but it sounds like he's gonna hassle you since he's already trying to blame the lamps. You might have to ship it back to the manufacturer for a warranty claim.

I would have to agree it sounds like there is something wrong with the fixture/ballast. Even the highest grade manufacturers have mistakes now and then. I would say it's time to put their customer service to the test.

Keep in mind bob, it was the LFS, not the fixture manufacturer that was blaming the China bulb. The manufacturer was only consulted as to if the higher watt bulb would work, in cwhich they suggested it would.

So at this point you have properly followed the manufacturer's suggestions, which should keep you well under their warranty.

 

[FishNCash]

A broken solder connection is not something to really hold against them.

I have to disagree with this one. They should've at least put better craftmanship into their product. The fixture was only one year old and the solder on the switch came loose. Do I expect to last forever? I don't but I do expect it to last at least two years before things like this happen. It's kind of like buying a car you expect nothing to be loose right away.

That's awesome that you have a quality LFS guy to consult...

The way something will burn out is to have more electricity pumped into it than it can handle. Just because the bulb is asking for more, doesn't mean the wall will give the blaast more... I am pretty sure the bulb will just get less than it wants. This will likely cause the bulb to either A) not illuminate, or B) be less bright. But I doubt it would burn out the ballast.

The first thing the LFS guy said was that it worked when we tested before I took it home. He offered to replaced it free but I offered to pay since I'm not 100% sure if I did burn the fixture. He charged me 20% of the unit price. That's still cheaper than shipping it back to the manufacturer.

I would have to agree it sounds like there is something wrong with the fixture/ballast. Even the highest grade manufacturers have mistakes now and then. I would say it's time to put their customer service to the test.

Keep in mind bob, it was the LFS, not the fixture manufacturer that was blaming the China bulb. The manufacturer was only consulted as to if the higher watt bulb would work, in cwhich they suggested it would.

So at this point you have properly followed the manufacturer's suggestions, which should keep you well under their warranty.

I would claim warranty but the cost of shipping and turn around time make it inconvenient. In this case, my LFS guy took great care of me. I've done business with him on my occassion and he always offer great advice.

Sounds like you used T5HO lamps in a normal output fixture, which shouldn't hurt anything. If the lamps work fine in another identical fixture, that narrows it down to a faulty fixture. The store should take it back, but it sounds like he's gonna hassle you since he's already trying to blame the lamps. You might have to ship it back to the manufacturer for a warranty claim.

The manufacturer customer service dept suggested this would be perfectly fine to use HO bulbs on these fixtures except I will only get normal output out of high output bulbs. I was thinking it was a bad lamp too but the fact that it worked at the work before I bought this unit make it sounds like I messed it up.