I got my test kits in to check th GH and KH of my water. I tested my tap water and the GH measured 0-1 and the KH was 13. When I did the GH test, with just 1 drop of solution,it stayed green. I tested my 50g and the GH was 0-1 and the KH was 11. On my 125g the GH was 2 and KH 9. I need to find out what to use to raise the GH in my water. Can someone suggest what's the best product, for freshwater, to raise it?
Can I Get Your Opinion?
- Thread starter lighthouse39183
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Not sure exactly what type, but many African cichlid keepers use rock to raise the GH of their water. It served a dual purpose as decor as well. If you don't want the rocks, I think adding calcium carbonate (don't quote me on that as I am not 100% sure I have the chemical name correct) will get the effect you want.
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Well the 125g has severums, a bala shark, and pleco. The 50g has tiger barbs, platinum green barbs, and black skirt tetra. I need to raise it to around 6 for the 125 and 10 for 50g.
I need a product that will add calcium, magnesium, Potassium, and whatever minerals they need. I found one from Kent but it said for salt water. I want to know the best product, based on your experience, that you use to raise your GH.
Know anyone with lime stone? It is effectively a lump of calcium carbonate with other carbonates mixed in. Calcium bicarbonate is the name for the aqueous solution when water and CO2 get thrown into the mix. If you don't want to see it, put it in the filter.
I could probably find some at a local rock warehouse. Is the calcium the only additive I need to add?
It looks like this,
Pale white and relatively soft like chalk (as in, hit it with a hammer and it compacts or crumbles).
I'll dig through one of my limnology textbooks later to see what the concentration equilibrium typically is in relatively aerated conditions and see if I can translate that to the KH/GH you guys use. We use milliequivalents of CaCO3 because that measurement takes into account the buffering capacity of all carbonates, not just the CaCO3. Granted CaCO3 probably takes up over 95% of it but IIRC KH/GH are separated by the metal ion and can be rather confusing. I'll look it up.
Pale white and relatively soft like chalk (as in, hit it with a hammer and it compacts or crumbles).
I'll dig through one of my limnology textbooks later to see what the concentration equilibrium typically is in relatively aerated conditions and see if I can translate that to the KH/GH you guys use. We use milliequivalents of CaCO3 because that measurement takes into account the buffering capacity of all carbonates, not just the CaCO3. Granted CaCO3 probably takes up over 95% of it but IIRC KH/GH are separated by the metal ion and can be rather confusing. I'll look it up.
I looked through my two big books and couldn't find even the slightest mention of the KH/GH scales because these are more concerned with buffering capacity rather than ion content. I found about a dozen other water hardness scales but nothing that relates to your test kit. I remember stumbling across a really good post in a pond forum elsewhere that explained inorganic carbon and the various measurements. I can't find it right now but here is an alternative.
This article has a grocery list. Instead of the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), find some lime as a source of calcium bicarbonate. They also included a little epsom salt (magnesium sulfate).
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
All this chemistry is why I switched over to hard water fish and inverts. As long as the majority of my water is eastern springs or DI water, just a little tap water buffers everything.
This article has a grocery list. Instead of the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), find some lime as a source of calcium bicarbonate. They also included a little epsom salt (magnesium sulfate).
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
All this chemistry is why I switched over to hard water fish and inverts. As long as the majority of my water is eastern springs or DI water, just a little tap water buffers everything.