Canopy w/ HOB filter?

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Druu

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Sep 16, 2007
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Notre Dame, IN
I imagine that this is an uncommon problem as most DIY-ers here work on big tanks that are plumbed with sumps or w/d.

Anyway, I've got some extra trim from my stand and I decided to attempt a matching canopy. However, the tank is only a 38g and I plan on running a Marineland 350 for filtration. All of the canopy plans I've seen so far seem to be a rectangle close to the exact size of the tank top. Should I just go with a 3 sided canopy and leave the rear open? The tank will always sit at least 4 inches away from the wall due to my pedestal at the bottom and the HOB on back.

Anybody make a canopy for a tank that runs a HOB? Pics or plans would be greatly appreciated.
 
Take this as a clue and take it to heart:
I never build from plans. You can too.

Part of the fun of building is the mental design and creativity in facing challenges. I understand that not everyone can build without plans, but you don't have to stick to what is in black and white (plus, plans never consider the next guys specific needs).

Off the top of my head, I am seeing two ways you might want to do it. One way is to use the hood to hide the filter. In other words, make it tall enough so that it can't be seen. The top of the hood will be a complete rectangle and there will be a cut out in the back pannel for the hob. The second way is to take advantage of the lid over the bio-wheels (they are clearish so you can monitor their rotation). This way would have a lower profile with a cut out of the top piece and rear. If you are planning on having lights in the hood, the minimum height for the hood is three inches, and the height of the Penguin models above the tank rim is also three inches (double check because I have Penguin 150's).

Draw out your own plans to scale. Use 1/4 inch to equal one inch, or maybe one cm to equal one inch. Include the thickness of the pieces in your drawing. Also try to hide any seams from frontal view. In other words, the front panel should extend to both outside dimensions of the hood and cover the edge of the side panels. The rear edges of the side panels should cover the back panel. When you have all four sides dimensioned, then measuer the hob for the proper cut out. Don't squeeze the hob all the way to the edge. Allow about three inches for the possible addition of UGF risers, even if you hate them with a passion right now.
 
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its open in the back... its my own personal flawless design... :ROFL:
 
Chompers, my main problem is that the HOB juts out of the back. I've already accounted for the height of it because I was planning to use a regular hood and just put the canopy over that- sort of like what Chester did, but without the eggcrate. And I wanted mine to just open from the top, not top and front, although I think that's a bit harder.

As for overlapping the edges, I planned on making 45 degree cuts so everything would look cleaner as I'm using trim there.
 
if you want the whole top to open.. hinge it on the front so it opens towards you..

since this is for a 38g tank i wouldnt worry about having it open and all that.. just take the whole thing off..
 
Ironmahn, thanks for the link. I like what you did with the entire top opening back and am considering that instead of having the front half of the top open. In the back, is the part that rests on the rim just on the left half and right corner?
 
The suppport for the back rim is in the center, the left and right sides are open for HOB's, tubes, cords, or whatever needs to go into the tank. Hope that answers your question.
 
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