Center Brace

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

THE FAMILY GUY

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Apr 20, 2011
161
93
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NEW YUCK CITY
Saw a 120 gallon 4x2x2 on marketplace for $100. Checked it out today and the tank was in his basement he said it sat unused for 2 years so I'm gonna assume 5 years. On top of the tank was a bag of clothes that must have broken the center brace because he seemed shocked, disappointed and annoyed with his wife that he blamed for the clothes. As I went to leave lol he said I could have the tank for free because he needed the space. I immediately of course turned around and snatched it without question. He also gave the wooden stand that looked to weak for a 10 gallon tank so I tossed that in a nearby dumpster. Now I have the tank home, I'm about to fill with water and leave it in my driveway for a week. How do I fix or change the brace? Also will the tank blow if its not repaired? Never had a tank with this issue
 
Buy yourself 2 or 3 tubes of Aquarium safe silicone, take a razor blade cut all of the old silicone out clean the tank thoroughly reseal all four corners and the bottom. When done use the silicone to repair the centerbrace. If you want to go for something more substantialy stronger get some Gorilla glue and repair the brace. Silicone should be strong enough to hold the the brace if you go with thin glass tops. If you go with thick glass tops go with the glue. Just keep your water level down enough so your aquarium water doesn't come In contact with the glue. That's an awesome find. We are currently going to have to reseal one of our old used 135G tanks. Re sealing tanks is easy. Let the silicone set and dry for 48 to 72 hours. Grab yourself a box of disposable latex gloves a razor blade and 3 tubes of Aquarium safe silicone and a caulk gun. All reasonably cheap. That should do it.
 
Those top trim pieces that incorporate a flimsy crossbrace of the same material are not at all confidence inspiring. You absolutely cannot fix that with silicone, and Gorilla glue won't be much better. The contact area where the two pieces meet is practically zero.

I'd cut the entire cross brace out entirely. Get a glass piece cut the correct size for a crossbrace (maybe a single mm less than the interior front to back distance with the tank empty), and silicone it in place at front and rear. Support it until it cures, and you will have a superior brace, far stronger than that original piece of junk.

Don't forget that the ends of the brace and the corresponding surfaces of the front and back panels must be absolutely perfectly clean, not a trace of old silicone or oil or any other contaminants allowed.

This is an easy fix. :)
 
Those top trim pieces that incorporate a flimsy crossbrace of the same material are not at all confidence inspiring. You absolutely cannot fix that with silicone, and Gorilla glue won't be much better. The contact area where the two pieces meet is practically zero.

I'd cut the entire cross brace out entirely. Get a glass piece cut the correct size for a crossbrace (maybe a single mm less than the interior front to back distance with the tank empty), and silicone it in place at front and rear. Support it until it cures, and you will have a superior brace, far stronger than that original piece of junk.

Don't forget that the ends of the brace and the corresponding surfaces of the front and back panels must be absolutely perfectly clean, not a trace of old silicone or oil or any other contaminants allowed.

This is an easy fix. :)
Yes, your advice for the centerbrace sounds much sounder. Our 135G Oceanic just completely blew the side seal out early this morning. Thinking about getting a tow strap wrapped around the tank once we reseal it. The damage to ours is much more severe. At least it's a Oceanic, the glass is thick so hopefully we can hold it together while it cures. The joy's of buying used aquariums
 
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