Its not fun in the slightest to do it especially on a big tank as I changed from gravel to river sand in a 175g and it took AGES.....
I properly gravel syphoned the existing stuff to minimise the kick up of rubbish, then had to clean all the sand for what felt like 2 hours to get the dirt out of it. I used a really fine kitchen sive to help and that helped speed it up.
Then just ran another external on my tank once the sand went in to try and clear it all quicker.
Like previously mentioned, not impossible but not at all fun ;-)