Check valves

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ukgoffer

ukgoffer

Candiru
MFK Member
Aug 3, 2012
388
80
46
Westport, CT
I have a 300g with 3 closed loop filters. One runs through the wall and out into the garage with a blueline pump and FSI100 sock filter. I have heard people suggest putting air check valves in the PVC line. I can see where that would make priming easier by letting air out, but wouldn't water go out the same valves? What am I missing?
 
With a good quality, efficient check valve, air will be allowed to escape, but if water pushes against the ball, its pressure against the ball closes the opening, so water won't escape.
 
If the need exists, maybe. If it is fine without it, why complicate things? If the pump is lower than the tank/sump/source then you shouldn't ever have to worry.
And by the way, once the little check valves clog, and they will, now you have an issue...because they could clog in an inconvenient way.....jus sayen.
....And....it's a closed loop...so...
 
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the pump is lower but it's not a drilled tank and it is set up as a modified river manifold - the returns and inlets are near the bottom so the highest parts of the loops are where they go over the back. I thought check valves to let air out at the elbows over the top might make it easier.
 
I may not be understanding your set-up, but the filter you described does not sound like it's "closed loop". I do use a check-valve for my return pipe (from sump to tank) as described above, and not to release any air from my plumbing.
 
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If water is coming in from the tank and returning to the tank and never exposed outside of PVC and your other items then sounds like it is a CL. If so , then I dont think a check valve isn't needed. At less not that I can think of.
 
It is a canister that holds a sock filter - about 30" tall.
image.jpeg
The only thing difficult is priming. I was thinking a check valve at the highest point in the line would make it easier to get the pump going.
 
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