96Lx24Dx31H, 300 gallon african cichlid tank with 72Lx22Dx20H 115 gallon sump. I'm taking this design off of what the previous owner had used, with some modifications. Previous stand showed warping on the outer edges of the plywood inbetween the 2x4 legs as the horizontal 2x6 ran on the inside of the legs. The weight of course is primarily on the outer tank edges. To keep the tank stand narrow as possible, but to have enough room for the sump to fit, the 2x4's need to go on the outside of the 2x6. The end product will be a hardwood finished stand, hood and matching end cabinets with shelving above.
This is what I've come up with so far as the first phase, creating the initial shell of the stand. 2x6 horizontally running inside of the 2x4 legs. 2x2's running at the base of the legs to create sump platform, also on inside of legs. Stand depth is 25", leaving 22 1/4" inside legs to fit 22" wide sump tank. I could run 2x4 cross braces front to back between the 2x6's if I want, the current stand didn't (reef tank with 750lbs of live rock in main tank). Top of stand and lower 2x2 deck to be covered in plywood (3/4" probably)
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They I am planning on adding a 2nd 2x6 glued and screwed between each leg front and back. This should prevent the ply from warping due to tank weight. Add a 2nd 2x2 between the legs at the bottom as well (front only). This functions (along with the 2nd 2x6's) to create a flush surface that I can then face with hardwood and fasten doors to etc. Just a single 2x6 and 2x2 on the ends are needed to make it flush. You can see in the next diagram where I've shaded in the 2nd set of 2x6's.
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The plan is to then build matching cabinets with shelving units above on either end of the tank. The cabinets probably 18" deep with the shelving units probably 12" deep. Should give nice change of depth. These would be 30-36" wide on either side giving a total width of 13-14'. The end units will run floor to ceiling and need to be removable to be able to remove the sump. Then finished end panels of the tank stand will also need to be removable for the same reason.
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I have yet to figure out the canopy. Thinking of having it go from tank right to ceiling, lower section to house lights, upper section to be open "box" cubbies. Any concerns/challenges/improvements you see with this design?
This is what I've come up with so far as the first phase, creating the initial shell of the stand. 2x6 horizontally running inside of the 2x4 legs. 2x2's running at the base of the legs to create sump platform, also on inside of legs. Stand depth is 25", leaving 22 1/4" inside legs to fit 22" wide sump tank. I could run 2x4 cross braces front to back between the 2x6's if I want, the current stand didn't (reef tank with 750lbs of live rock in main tank). Top of stand and lower 2x2 deck to be covered in plywood (3/4" probably)
.
.
They I am planning on adding a 2nd 2x6 glued and screwed between each leg front and back. This should prevent the ply from warping due to tank weight. Add a 2nd 2x2 between the legs at the bottom as well (front only). This functions (along with the 2nd 2x6's) to create a flush surface that I can then face with hardwood and fasten doors to etc. Just a single 2x6 and 2x2 on the ends are needed to make it flush. You can see in the next diagram where I've shaded in the 2nd set of 2x6's.
.
.
The plan is to then build matching cabinets with shelving units above on either end of the tank. The cabinets probably 18" deep with the shelving units probably 12" deep. Should give nice change of depth. These would be 30-36" wide on either side giving a total width of 13-14'. The end units will run floor to ceiling and need to be removable to be able to remove the sump. Then finished end panels of the tank stand will also need to be removable for the same reason.
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I have yet to figure out the canopy. Thinking of having it go from tank right to ceiling, lower section to house lights, upper section to be open "box" cubbies. Any concerns/challenges/improvements you see with this design?
